My new VC Encore 2-in-1 is setup and heating my home!!

[emt1581]

you need to get the thermometer for the top of the stove. It really tells you a lot and helps you get a feel for what is going on in the stove.

Yeah, you'd think after spending close to $6K at the damn shop, they'd throw it in NOPE! I'm going to go look for one at Lowes. I don't feel like making the trip out to the stove shop again.

-Emt1581

 

[logger]

"I was actually told by my installer today that I should leave the stove totally opened up (not sure if that includes the cook top, doors, and ash pan….but to leave it open for an hour a day to prevent creosote build up in the flue".

Like rdust said, the installer means leaving the primary air open. This is done to reach your stoves upper "burn zone" temps, which will help burn off some of the creasote that may have formed. Just keep an eye on the temp though because you dont want to overfire the stove.

 

[emt1581]

you need to get the thermometer for the top of the stove. It really tells you a lot and helps you get a feel for what is going on in the stove.

Yeah, when I return the unused sections of chimney I'll pick one up. That and a cheap humidifying pot from Lowes. They have one for $12 where at the stove shop they are $50-$100+. But since I load from the top, that is going to be a PITA to take on and off a few times a day. or is it ok to set it on the enamel/rear of the stove?

In terms of the thermometer, again with placement, should it go on the cooktop, enamel, or stove pipe in a specific place?

Also, no one's PM'd me yet willing to help post pics for me...

Thanks!

-Emt1581

 

[rdust]

Also, no one's PM'd me yet willing to help post pics for me...

Thanks!

-Emt1581

PM sent......

 

[afptl]

I put my thermometer in the center of the griddle. Picked it up at the local hardware store. Got one with a magnet on it. Really helps out!

I agree, the stove shop should have included it as well. Unless they were looking for some repair business from a too hot stove!!

 

[-PB-]

[quote author = "emt1581"] How do I make it last longer?

That's what she said![/quote]
that's awesome

 

[emt1581]

Also, no one's PM'd me yet willing to help post pics for me...

Thanks!

-Emt1581

PM sent......

Got it. The sun went down and lighting sucks in that room but tomorrow morning or after work I'll snap some pics. Thanks!

-Emt1581

 

[VCBurner]

Only complaint/concern I have is that I loaded it up and turned down the airflow (to slow the burn) and I came home at lunch to a huge pile of embers/coals...but all wood was pretty much gone. We're talking 3-4hrs. here. How do I make it last longer?

Thanks!

-Emt1581

What mode are you burning in?

Non-CAT.

I took that out as a precaution so I don't damage it in case my wood is too moist.

-Emt1581

I don't know the stove. But I think you're right for not wanting to damage the cat. The stove should really get more than 3-4 hours of heat/load no? What kind of wood are you burning? Is the wood hissing in the stove?

 

[BrowningBAR]

Only complaint/concern I have is that I loaded it up and turned down the airflow (to slow the burn) and I came home at lunch to a huge pile of embers/coals...but all wood was pretty much gone. We're talking 3-4hrs. here. How do I make it last longer?

Thanks!

-Emt1581

What mode are you burning in?

Non-CAT.

I took that out as a precaution so I don't damage it in case my wood is too moist.

-Emt1581

I don't know the stove. But I think you're right for not wanting to damage the cat. The stove should really get more than 3-4 hours of heat/load no? What kind of wood are you burning? Is the wood hissing in the stove?

You are correct. A full load should be lasting much longer.

 

[VCBurner]

. . .but seriously folks, long burn time = the forte of cat stoves. It's probably not a bad idea to take it out while you get to know the stove, but you'll probably get longer burns with the cat. There's a guy named NinoUrbana who seems pretty intent on finding the limits of this stove. See his posts in your other thread on the 2n1. Do what he does.

Hmm...I didn't get a notification about replies to that thread. I'll have to check it out.

In terms of the cat, again, I wanted to err on the side of caution rather than screw it up, but I thought about that...it bumps up the efficiency which would seem to bump up burn time as well. However, my installer said that even with the cat, he thinks it's only a 6hr stove. I think he's wrong because last night I turned the external (stove pipe) damper to 45deg. (half open), turned the airflow all the way down, and closed the internal damper, and when I woke up this morning, some of the wood wasn't even burned yet...so that slowed it waaayyyy down. However, the trade-off was it didn't heat very well at all. I mean you couldn't see your breath, but it wasn't toasty either. My concern would be how cold the upstairs got. But in all honesty I didn't check to see.

-Emt1581

Are you serious? Your thread basically gone viral! I agree with checking out NinoUrbana's posts. He seems to be pretty good at getting positive results with his stove. But he's totally against running it on non-cat! So it won't help you as you're running it now. It sounds like the wood to me, unless you have some freakish draft and it's sucking all the heat without you knowing. I would think you need not only a stovetop, but a flue and a cat thermometer, when you get the cat back in it. VC is infamous for having stoves that are difficult to operate, you need all the help you can get to learn this stove. Keep all the temps from going beyond the recommended temps, but hot enough to push it and get some serious heat.

Edit: Oh, I forgot, your installer is crazy! Don't listen to a word he says, 6 hours? He's got to be kidding. I could get 6 hours out of my old 1980 Surdiac Gotha pre EPA with a tiny firebox. I bought it for $80 bucks off Craigslist. Do you want to trade? I'll come pick it up tomorrow! :cheese:

Edit 2: I would buy one thermometer for the stovetop, which VC says should be at the center of the griddle and one for the flue temps 18" above the flue colar on the pipe. I found while learning my stove, the flue temps were a really good indicator of where the stove was. Sometimes the stove top is not up to temp, but the flue temps are totally out of the safe zone, especially during light off periods. The flue temps will get hot way sooner than the stove top temps, keeping them both in check will assure you it's within range. These two thermometers will be the best investment to help you get heat and keep the stove in good shape.