So I was given a corner pad, however, I can't place my stove in the corner. For my clearances, I'm short about 6 inches in length . was wondering if there was an easy way I could build around the pad to meet clearances. I have fireboard, was thinking of just squaring off the corner bad to make it a square big enough...wasn't sure if this is a good idea or not. Open for suggestions. I'd hate to waste the pad when all I need is 4 more inches
Need 6" more on my hearth pad
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It's a US WOOD STOVE , not sure of exact model. I was looking for something cheaper to use as supplement to our oil. Like I said, I'm not exact on the inches I need, just wondering if adding around a hearth pad is do able
It should be but how will depend on the stove's hearth requirements. If the requirement is ember protection only then the solution is easy. If the stove has a high insulation requirement then not as easy.
Im trying to figure out how big my hearth would need to be for this stove....anyone who could help me with that would be amazing.
That high R value could be a problem. Even if the friend's corner hearth pad is type 2 rated it may not be enough. I would plan on making the hearth pad from scratch.
Looks like the hearth needs to be at least 33" wide and 56" long. R 2 = 5 layers of 1/2" Durock NexGen cement board or a layer of 1/2" micore 160 and then 2 layers of Durock NexGen on top. A sheet of Durock is 36" x 60" so you could make a simple hearth by just stacking up 5 sheets and screwing them together.
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A pic would be helpful. What will the hearth be sitting on? Is the stove already plumbed? I'm thinking just pull the hearth pad out from the wall 4". If you have to make an extension you can do it on the rear where it will be hidden a bit.
Not sure which hearth brand you have but the yoder's have a value of 1.6 and up to 10 if you use the 6" base. My advice would be to price everything out to extend or make your hearth safe and to code. I'm guessing that you could buy a decent used modern stove with better clearance for near the same price.
Here's what I'm thinking:
You can make a simple box to raise the hearth from 2x4s to get an air gap and raise the r-value. My yoder hearth just had a 2x6 "cross" that sits under the stove for center support. With that you would just have the gap to fill at the rear which may be able to do with 1 sheet of durock (just cut strips and stack them) I would fill the seam between the hearth and extension with fire rated caulk just in case an ember ever happened to roll back there. Someone else may show up and find fault in this design, I'm just grabbing at straws here without a picture to really see what's going on.
You can make a simple box to raise the hearth from 2x4s to get an air gap and raise the r-value. My yoder hearth just had a 2x6 "cross" that sits under the stove for center support. With that you would just have the gap to fill at the rear which may be able to do with 1 sheet of durock (just cut strips and stack them) I would fill the seam between the hearth and extension with fire rated caulk just in case an ember ever happened to roll back there. Someone else may show up and find fault in this design, I'm just grabbing at straws here without a picture to really see what's going on.
Get the R value of the hearth to see if it is worth the hassle. A box to raise it would need to be non-combustible. Otherwise wood studs become the nearest combustible.
The box/pedestal that came with my yoder is nothing more than 1x6 oak and press board. It only goes around the outer edge of the hearth and has the crossed pieces directly under the stove. So as long as you have proper clearances to the edge of the hearth you should be okay. I agree that the type of hearth needs to be determined. I would call the manufacturer and ask. if this is a type 1 hearth then all bets are off and you'll need to build up the r-value.
Looks to me like the Yoder box extension does not raise R value in spite of their claims. It needs more insulation from combustibles to do that. The last time I looked (and it's been a while) the Hearth Classic pad had particle board as their bottom layer of the pad. That is what establishes the R=1.61 rating, but maybe this has changed? I will contact them.
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