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Need advice on old Timberline slammer

Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by sproksch, Aug 25, 2012.

  1. sproksch

    sproksch New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2012
    Messages:
    4
    Loc:
    Northern Virginia
    Hello,

    Let me start off by saying I know very little about wood stoves. I bought a house that had an old, but little used Timberline fireplace insert (I believe ‘slammer’ is the proper lingo) (photos attached). It vents directly into the existing terra cotta (13x13 inch) flu. I’ve used it a few times and it was hard to get it to draw, but once going, it did a nice job of heating my small split-level house. I did enough research to find out this set up is not ideal and possibly not safe, etc. So, I wanted to install a flexible steel liner kit into my existing flu and connect it to the stove – seemed like an easy DIY project. I did my research on the local building codes, and realized the stove must be UL listed. I pulled out the stove and looked everywhere for a UL stamp or even a model number. I found nothing on the stove except for the inside of the door – stamped in the metal is ‘TSFR’ and right below it, ‘144C’. I have a feeling an inspector will not sign off on any installation that is not UL listed or known to be tested to a certain standard. So, with that, here are my questions:

    · What do the letters and numbers mean that are stamped on the door? Model number perhaps?

    · Not finding a UL stamp on the stove, is it a sure thing it is not UL listed? Anything else I can check?

    · Assuming the stove is not UL listed and my building inspector won’t accept anything less, is my only option to find a new stove?

    · What should I do with the Timberline if I can’t use it – are they worth anything or should I just sell it for scrap?

    I live in northern VA – so, I would not use the stove much. But I thought if I could make it work with a DIY steel liner, it would be worth it to me. If I have to buy a whole new stove, I’m not sure it’d be worth it to me, but I’m not sure how much a more modern and UL listed stove for my space would cost. Calling a pro is probably not worth it to me (got an estimate for $3K to install the liner and they never said anything about my stove not being UL listed – did they not care or not check or maybe they didn’t think it was an issue?)

    Thanks much and I appreciate any and all advice!

    Steve
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  2. geoxman

    geoxman Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Messages:
    285
    Loc:
    STL City
    Coaly should be around in a bit and he will have some answers for you.
  3. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    54,918
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    It's going to be hard to make that work with a liner. The draft damper mechanism will interfere with the liner attachment. It was built as a slammer which is no longer legal or safe.

    I would replace it with a modern insert. You'll burn a lot less wood and will get better heating. Be sure to have the chimney and smoke shelf thoroughly cleaned before installing the liner.
  4. webbie

    webbie Seasoned Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2005
    Messages:
    12,186
    Loc:
    Western Mass.
    Those are not UL numbers in the door.
    It very well could have been UL listed, but it's gonna be tough to find out. If you can dig up an owners manual or old brochure, it may have the stamp on that.

    A lot of older stoves had he UL tags fastened with adhesive and they would fall off after a couple years, etc....

    You could sell it for scrap or sell is as-is. There are many jurisdictions where an inspector would allow a properly installed "generic" stove, just based on his experience, common sense and NFPA current installation codes.
  5. sproksch

    sproksch New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2012
    Messages:
    4
    Loc:
    Northern Virginia
    Thank you everyone!

    I do have the original owner's manual (at least that's what the original owner of the house gave me), but it is generic - it lists several models(T-PF, T-SF, and T-LF), none of which match up to the numbers on my door. It does recommend using a UL listed factory built chimney, which would suggest the stove would also be UL listed, but there is nothing in the manual to specifically state that.

    The damper door on top comes off easy enough - the two guide rails slightly infringe on the 8" diameter hole, but I would think I could grind that down without much trouble. The one trouble I now see with putting in the liner is that I have the existing flu damper housing (door removed) still in the chimney - that is only 5" wide). I'm assuming I could chisel away the mortar to remove that, but now I'm digressing into another topic. If I find a new stove with a smaller outlet, maybe that would solve the problem right there.

    I'll talk to my inspector and see if they'll do anything for me - if not, I'll probably be asking for advice on what brand of stove I should buy!

    Thanks again (if anyone has any more advice, please keep it coming),
    Steve
  6. webbie

    webbie Seasoned Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2005
    Messages:
    12,186
    Loc:
    Western Mass.
    Many makers print the UL symbol on the manual. If it was not printed and is not on the unit, chances are that your unit is pre-UL. However, there is a very good chance that later models of the same stove line were tested...

    Yeah, talk to the guy. It's probably not the first unlisted stove they have seen. Good Luck!
  7. mellow

    mellow Resident Stove Connoisseur

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2008
    Messages:
    3,906
    Loc:
    Salisbury, MD
    Your going to have to install a boot over top of the exhaust and figure out someway to get the damper rod to go through the boot, if you do decide to go with a liner.


    [​IMG]

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