Need help establishing a good routine

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

burn1997

New Member
Jan 27, 2015
6
NH
Hi - New burner here and in need of some suggestions. Stove is currently placed in living room in a somewhat central location (against outer wall) in a 2,000 SF ranch. No basement. No second floor.

I don't even really care too much about the bedrooms - it's the primary living areas that I'm trying to figure out first. Dining room and kitchen connected to living room.

Have a beautifully rebuilt 1982 Intrepid I in open fireplace, non-catalytic. Seasoned wood. Installed professionally. Etc. Insulation is blocking any draft heading up the chimney in the open space.

When you walk into the room it just doesn't have that HOLY SUGAR warm feel to it that I expected. I'm having trouble raising the thermostat from just 63ish when the stove has been roaring at 500+ all day.

Help! My initial thought is that the stove is too small for the space.

I do have central air and ductwork. Heard of those techniques....but remember, I'm just trying to get the PRIMARY room blistering hot and can't do that.

And, in the long run over the next few years, my goal is to heat my entire house with wood - not looking good so far...

Thoughts?

Yours truly,
Confused and frustrated, and somewhat warm, in NH.
 
The Intrepid is a small stove and an area heater, not a whole house heater. Can you close off the room? That should help warm it up. The heat output of the stove is going to depend on the quality and dryness of the wood. What species is being burnt and how long has it seasoned since being split and stacked?

Do you have a thermometer on the stove top? The stove top temperature will help determine how it is running. If yes, what temp does it usually cruise at?
 
How much oil/gas do you burn/year? That would give us an idea as to your heat load.
 
yeah, that's what I thought you would say. My gut says this more of a small basement type stove. But at least I have the flue updated.

Got a thermostat. Runs 400+ usually. Can't close off the room with doors.
 
In addition to what was already said: Since that fireplace is at an outer wall, have you ever gone outside and checked the bricks with an IR thermometer how warm they are? Some members here reported sizeable differences compared with the walls just a few feet to either side.

How long ago has the wood been split and then stacked out in the open where it gets lots of sun and wind? Did you measure its moisture content? How far down do you adjust the air once the stove reaches high enough temps?
 
yeah, that's what I thought you would say. My gut says this more of a small basement type stove. But at least I have the flue updated.

Got a thermostat. Runs 400+ usually. Can't close off the room with doors.

It's an area heater, though will work ok in a house up to about 1000 sq ft if it is reasonably insulated. You should be able to hit 600+ for an hour or so with that stove. If not, the wood may not be fully seasoned. That will definitely reduce heat output.
 
I think the wood is probably OK. I haven't tested its moisture content. I'm new to this, so my skill is definitely low at this point. I'll draw back the air a little bit once it gets firing but I find it goes out quicker then and the stove temp drops. Maybe I'm doing that wrong too. Questioning it all at this point.
 
If you cannot reduce the air at all without snuffing out the fire it suggests that your wood is not dry. Plus, you are running your stove like a fireplace sending a lot of heat up the chimney and probably pulling cold outside air into your home. That would further explain why its performance is so unsatisfactory.

Do you know when the wood was split or was it purchased as "seasoned"?
 
You're probably right. Earlier this winter I was burning some wood that had been seasoning for over a year and did pretty well. Now I'm on to some bought "seasoned" wood and so I suspect its a little wet.
 
But more on that whole air control business. Give me some tips on that. The Intrepid I has its air control on the back right of the stove, which means it's hidden by view and I have to go by feel and my mind's eye to determine how far open it is. Determining how open to leave it has been a struggle.
 
Most wood sellers call their wood "seasoned" although it only has been sitting in logs until split shortly before delivery. In fact, it is probably close to being as wet as when the tree was cut. I highly recommend to inspect and clean your chimney regularly. That may have accumulated quite a bit of creosote by now. When you buy your wood get the one for the next two winters as soon as possible and stack it in your yard raised from the ground in a spot where it gets lots of sun and wind. That way you will have dry wood for the future. For this year look into lumber scraps, pallets, or compressed wood logs such as Envi-blocks, BioBricks etc.
 
I have a good load of wood waiting to be split once I can see it again (thanks Juno)....but tell me your opinion on how soon to stack. I've heard varying thoughts. Some people tell me to split ASAP then wait to stack until the first frost. Thoughts?
 
The sooner you can split and stack the wood the more time it has to dry. Raise it from the ground (e. g. on pallets or lumber poles), stack it loosely in a sunny and windy spot, and top-covering helps IMHO. Softwoods and ash dry relatively fast within one year, dense hardwoods like locust and oak need up to three years, others usually fall in between. I would sort your wood accordingly during the splitting. In the fall move it to a spot it stays dry like a woodshed, preferably not too far from the house.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.