I just recently purchased a used VC Dutchwest Convection Heater, Model 2461. The Dampler operating rod that is on the back left of the stove will not stay open. Have others had this problem?? I'm guessing that the dampler operating rod may need to be replaced. Any thoughts??
Need help troubleshooting Dutchwest Convection Heater
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I havn't had that problem with my 2461 but it is fairly easy to get into for trouble shooting. Remove 4 bolts that hold the top on, 2 on either end size 7/16, and you can get to the damper and control rod. The top weighs about 40-50 lbs. Good luck with it.
Thanks for responding. The former owners did have the manual, so I've been reviewing that and I thought it looked like it would be relatively easy to get to. I just fired it up today for the first time. The catalytic converter was not in the stove so I'm operating it right now without it. Do you always use it with the converter?? Also, they told me it needs the air distributer which I believe is needed to operate the stove with the converter. Do you know if this is the case?? I checked the internet and it looks like there's a local chimney sweep company who also services the VCs. I may have to call them but thanks for any additional info you can provide.
Sounds like this stove was poorly maintained. Without the catalytic converter the stove is going to be a mediocre performer. Fix the damper linkage, get the air distributor and cat to let this stove perform well. And hope you don't discover other symptoms of negligence by the former owner.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
When the bypass is closed and the converter engaged it not only burns the smoke and gases but it also limits the draft. So I would think burning with out a converter is also a safety issue. So be careful.
raybonz
Minister of Fire
MDcountrygirl said:
Pretty sure this is the cat you need for your stove http://www.inandoutlifestyles.com/coduwostcaco.html ... I just bought one for my older large convection and it uses the same one I think.. I paid $130.00 + tax so $118.00 with free shipping is a good deal.. I have had this stove over 20 yrs. and this is the 3rd cat it has needed (1st one came with the stove) .. The cat will make a big difference in efficiency (you will use about 1/3 less wood) and creosote production will be greatly inhibited.. I suggest you measure the chamber where the cat is located to ensure you get the right cat and it will probably be 6" diameter by 2" deep..
Ray
raybonz
Minister of Fire
MDcountrygirl said:
http://www.stovesandspas.com/pdf/dutchwest.pdf Is the air distributor actually the primary air adjustment on your stove? If so look at the manual on the link I have on this post as this is adjustable.. My stove is older and different than yours and it looks like yours has a better air adjustment system than mine does..
Good Luck,
Ray
I really like the DW and miss mine .
You can burn it with out the cat in a pinch but efficience gos down .
You can burn with out the air distributor all so . you just need to open the intake a bit more .
You will probably need the asbestos baffle that surrounds the cat .
One tip , close the damper nice and easy if it gets dropped a few times by accident it will crack the cat. John
You can burn it with out the cat in a pinch but efficience gos down .
You can burn with out the air distributor all so . you just need to open the intake a bit more .
You will probably need the asbestos baffle that surrounds the cat .
One tip , close the damper nice and easy if it gets dropped a few times by accident it will crack the cat. John
All, we'll at this point in time, I've had a local Chimney Sweep, who specializes in servicing DW stoves, come and take a look. Apparently, the damper rod got shifted in the move of the stove to my house so that's been taken care of! Whew! Anyway, the Mid-Atlantic has been pounded this weekend with snow. My area received about 30". I fired up the DW and can get the catalyst to engage, but it will only rise to around 800 degrees and no higher. It only stays at that temp ~30-45 minutes before it starts to drop into the inactive zone. I'm burning oak and ash though it hasn't "seasoned" for very long. From what I'm reading, this could be part of the problem. I'd appreciate other's thoughts. Thanks. This forum really is a great resource.
Todd
Minister of Fire
If your wood is a little wet try burning smaller splits and give it a little more time before engaging.
Todd, thanks for the suggestion. I don't have the means to split the wood into smaller pieces so I will try waiting a little longer to engage the cat.
raybonz
Minister of Fire
MDcountrygirl said:
Yup wet wood will do that and a sleepy cat can also do this... Just replaced mine because it would do same as yours except my wood was dry.. New one works good.. The last cat was around 7 yrs old...
Ray
VCBurner
Minister of Fire
Hogwildz said:
Hey Hog, didn't your mother ever tell you? If you don't have anything good to say, maybe you shouldn't say anything at all?
To Ray: The previous owners had an extra cat that came with the stove so I might try that. We're predicted to get another 10-20 more inches of snow tomorrow. It will be awhile before I can get good, dry wood I'm afraid
raybonz
Minister of Fire
MDcountrygirl said:
If they left you a spare new cat that's great and saved you some $$ ... Your stove and chimney will not be happy with wet wood so don't throw out your cat.. My stove runs well with seasoned dry wood and gives me very little trouble but toss in some wet wood and it is not happy and tends to back-puff, the glass turns black and the inside of the stove becomes shiny black along with the flue pipe and chimney.. What I am saying is don't judge your stove's performance under these circumstances as they actually perform efficiently with low maintenance..
As for snow down your way it must be a nightmare because it's not something you're used to seeing.. It would be hard for us northerners and we have seen it before..
Ray
Because the DW are finicky when it comes to dry wood, has anyone ever tried the brick fuel or presto logs in the absence of seasoned cord wood??
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