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need to produce more heat

Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by unclebobsjerky, Nov 16, 2012.

  1. unclebobsjerky

    unclebobsjerky New Member

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    NH
    how can i make my 1977 vermont castings wood stove burn better when closed up it always seems to burn around 250f when in cat mode

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  2. mfglickman

    mfglickman Minister of Fire

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    are you engaging the cat too soon?
  3. unclebobsjerky

    unclebobsjerky New Member

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    when is to soon
  4. Todd

    Todd Minister of Fire

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    Doesn't sound like it's coming up to temp, how old is the cat? May be time to replace it?
  5. unclebobsjerky

    unclebobsjerky New Member

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    I have have two air ports, the inlet air shutter and a round air port on the side. How do these need to be set ?

    1977 VC

    I burn 24/7. Use no oil
  6. unclebobsjerky

    unclebobsjerky New Member

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    I just found this pdf on catalytic wood stoves. It explaned a lot . It's time to experiment............

    Attached Files:

  7. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    What stove model is this, Defiant or Vigilant? I don't recall Vermont Casting making any cat stoves of this vintage. When you say cat mode, do you mean engaging the bypass? If so, this is not engaging the cat and the solution is very different.
  8. unclebobsjerky

    unclebobsjerky New Member

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    1977 vigilant don't know model# asi got it for free 5 years ago

    on the upper left side of the stove is a handle that closes a (damper/ port/catilic converter????) this handle opens and closes a large plate closing access from the stove to the flue. I thought it was a cat convert

    I just spoke to a VC dealer he said there is no cat on a 1977 mdl. he said to just try and get the best heat you can through experimentation.
  9. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    That's what I thought, there is no catalytic converter, that is a bypass handle. You need to read the manual and then ask more questions. I suspect the wood is not fully seasoned. But, if the wood is truly well seasoned and the stove temps still remain low then I would completely clean out the stove and then blow out the secondary passages. Do this outside with compressed air. It will be messy.

    The manual is posted here in 3 parts:
    http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Vermont_Castings_Older_Stove_Models/
  10. unclebobsjerky

    unclebobsjerky New Member

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    Thanks so much for the manual. It's now time to read.........
  11. remkel

    remkel Minister of Fire

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    I agree with Begreen....either your wood is wet, or your passages are clogged.

    You asked the question about the air inlets, and I know you have e manual, but the round little hole on the side of the stove is your secondary air. That hole should be open when running the stove.

    Your primary air (on the back of the stove) should be open as the stove comes up to temperature. I used to let the stove get up to 550-600 degrees, then close the damper (the bypass handle) and close down the primary air on the back leaving it slightly open (very slightly). The primary air should automatically open as the stove cools during the burn cycle.

    If you don't have access to compressed aiir, you can vacuum out the secondary chamber and baffles WHEN THE STOVE IS COLD! If you duct tape a section of garden hose to the end of a shop vac it helps get around the corner. I sometimes used a paint mixing stick to drag out excess ash that built up back there. There is a baffle plate that can be moved just inside the flue collar on the top of the stove to clean out the baffles on the back of the stove.

    If you inherited the stove, it may very well be the chambers are blocked if you have never cleaned them. Also, you will probably have to shovel out at least one to two shovels of ash every day. It may be that some of your primary air is getting blocked.

    Good luck with the stove....check that wood....the Vigilant is a great heater when it is running right.

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