Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by Don2222, Nov 25, 2012.
One of these might be better. Thanks
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update , another way to seal the ash pan tightly with out having to replace the short catch levers is to check how sloppy the drawer fits when the stove is not running. See if you can move the ash pan top to bottom while it is closed yet unlatched . I you have play in it you can shim the bottom rail some to take this out, hence it move more of the latch to the top and makes a better connection for it to latch tightly.
To help the ash pan seal better, I added s thin strip of sticky back insulation around the perimeter of the door frame. Seems to be sealing the door better. I have already adjusted those latches 3 times - that is getting old. I also decided to close out the rest of the window air wash - the last 4" of open space after I installed the kit from US stove. Closing the last air gap seems to really make the stove perform better and hotter. Of course will have to clean the glass more - but it seems you have to clean the glass often anyway - so no loss there. I will report back in a couple weeks to see if these changes are holding up.
Thanks for the info. A self stick 1/2" flat gasket may also work. I also found the exhaust blower seems to be a little weak for the stove. That stove uses a common 85 cfm combustion blower. You could try the Magnum 3650 two speed 1.5 amp blower. It has 3 wires. The white is common and the red is for 85 cfm and the black is for 105 cfm. It is a great blower but you may have to use your own fan blades if the magnum blades are too big.
Agree - I think a little more cfm on the blower would help the stove a lot. The design of the stove is not the best. The ash draw opening is too large. On the other hand, it is an inexpensive stove.
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