I have had this stove for three weeks now and am still getting a wood smoke smell in the house. I have taped all the exhaust joint's in the house and resiliconed the adapter to the stove and have made progress but am still geting wiffs of smoke, I can not see smoke and my carbon monoxide sensor is not going off but can definitly can still smell it. Is there any thing else I should check before I have the tech come out and look at this?
New enviro m55
- Thread starter cletus
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vinny11950
Minister of Fire
Welcome to the forum.
Tell us more about you installation setup?
What type of pellet type, brand?
Elbows, tees and pipe lengths?
If you could post good pictures of the stove, and the exhaust pipe, especially behind the stove and going out, it would really help trouble shoot the problem.
Usually it is the pellet pipe leaking somewhere. At night, turn off the lights, and start up the stove. With a flash light look at the exhaust pipe. Usually you can see the wisps of smoke.
Tell us more about you installation setup?
What type of pellet type, brand?
Elbows, tees and pipe lengths?
If you could post good pictures of the stove, and the exhaust pipe, especially behind the stove and going out, it would really help trouble shoot the problem.
Usually it is the pellet pipe leaking somewhere. At night, turn off the lights, and start up the stove. With a flash light look at the exhaust pipe. Usually you can see the wisps of smoke.
I have set in a corner, the exhaust is the apliance adapter into a 45 elbow, into a 24" pipe then a cap. The outside air is coming through floor from my crawl space. I installed this myself and I am fairly confident that I have the pipe sealed correctly since I have done it twice now, but could be wrong since I am still asking Question's here. I am burning North Idaho, Cleanburn and Pacific pellet pellet's in my stove. I have been trying out brands and have beeen buring each of these for a week then switching alll withh the same result's of getting a smoke smell
nailed_nailer
Minister of Fire
Did you "Burn Off" the stove?
Many folks complain about a paint/smoke smell as the new stove warms up.
Enviro recommends burning the stove on heat level 5 for a couple of hours to "burn off" the fumes.
They say to do it with the windows open. It takes quite a while to heat it all up good.
I did this on my front porch before I installed it. No smoke smell after I did my install.
The curing paint fumes can smell like smoke.
The vent path is the usual culprit for smoke escaping.
Check all joints from the fire box (inside the stove) to the rain cap.
Combustion blower gaskets, appliance adapters, and clean out "T"'s are the most common leaks.
Some have said they had leaks along the long seams and the section joints on their vent pipes and needed to tape/silicone calk them.
Also brand of vent pipe seems to be an issue Simpson DuraVent is usually complained about.
But I have used both Simpson Pellet Vent 3" and the newer Pellet Vent Pro 4" with no leaks.
None of my vent seams or joints are taped or calked. Guess it is luck getting good seals.
The flashlight method Vinny mentioned works good to find leaks.
---Nailer---
Many folks complain about a paint/smoke smell as the new stove warms up.
Enviro recommends burning the stove on heat level 5 for a couple of hours to "burn off" the fumes.
They say to do it with the windows open. It takes quite a while to heat it all up good.
I did this on my front porch before I installed it. No smoke smell after I did my install.
The curing paint fumes can smell like smoke.
The vent path is the usual culprit for smoke escaping.
Check all joints from the fire box (inside the stove) to the rain cap.
Combustion blower gaskets, appliance adapters, and clean out "T"'s are the most common leaks.
Some have said they had leaks along the long seams and the section joints on their vent pipes and needed to tape/silicone calk them.
Also brand of vent pipe seems to be an issue Simpson DuraVent is usually complained about.
But I have used both Simpson Pellet Vent 3" and the newer Pellet Vent Pro 4" with no leaks.
None of my vent seams or joints are taped or calked. Guess it is luck getting good seals.
The flashlight method Vinny mentioned works good to find leaks.
---Nailer---
Wachusett
Feeling the Heat
cletus,
I had a similar problem when I first set up my stove. Did you tape the factory seam of the 45* elbow.
I taped the inlet and outlet end and found it leaked in the middle. Taped up the seams and problem solved.
I had a similar problem when I first set up my stove. Did you tape the factory seam of the 45* elbow.
I taped the inlet and outlet end and found it leaked in the middle. Taped up the seams and problem solved.
vinny11950
Minister of Fire
Also, what model of the M55 do you have?
I have the steel model which has a quick connect, one bolt mechanism with the starter tube. One bolt on one side and two bent metal tabs that hold the exhaust starter tube. In between there is a fiberglass gasket. Anyway, in mine I discovered the metal tabs were not bent tight enough and I found some leakage.
Also in that area, another member realized the plate behind the exhaust starter tube, on the exhaust motor housing, was not properly siliconed at the factory and smoke was escaping from there.
Here are two pics that better explain it.
Also a link to my thread that touches on it. Other members have discussed it too, so if you search you will find it.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/83321/P0/
I would still bet on the appliance adapter leaking some place, or the elbow.
I have the steel model which has a quick connect, one bolt mechanism with the starter tube. One bolt on one side and two bent metal tabs that hold the exhaust starter tube. In between there is a fiberglass gasket. Anyway, in mine I discovered the metal tabs were not bent tight enough and I found some leakage.
Also in that area, another member realized the plate behind the exhaust starter tube, on the exhaust motor housing, was not properly siliconed at the factory and smoke was escaping from there.
Here are two pics that better explain it.
Also a link to my thread that touches on it. Other members have discussed it too, so if you search you will find it.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/83321/P0/
I would still bet on the appliance adapter leaking some place, or the elbow.
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vinny11950
Minister of Fire
but when it leaks from the adapter and the exhaust motor housing, it is very hard to see with the flash light trick because the smoke gets sucked up by the convection blower. in that case, you will smell it on the left side of the heat exchange tubes, almost as if the stove is blowing out smoke, but only on the left side.
Wachusett
Feeling the Heat
vinny11950
Minister of Fire
The stove is A freestanding cast M55, As I stated earlier I have taped all my Joint's and seams and used hight temp silicone in all the spot's I am supposed to. I am starting to belive I may have the same problem as vinny did with the starter tube. I am going to pull it appart again and check and as vinny also stated the smell is coming out the left side only. I can find no sign's of smoke anywhere and do belive the fan is cacthing it before I can. Thank you guy's for help I will update when I get it torn apart
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
vinny11950 said:Truth hurts, hurts real bad!!
Pretty pipes that leak=BAD!
Ugly pipes that don't leak=good!
Hard to get pretty pipes that don't leak with duravent. A tip is they do have black HT silicone(permatex ultra black) which makes them slightly better looking if you have the black painted pipes. ;-)
vinny11950
Minister of Fire
cletus said:
Cletus, before you take it apart, make sure you order a couple of replacement gaskets for the exhaust starter tube. Or order the gasket material just to have in hand, because those gaskets go to pieces very easily, and then you are stuck waiting for the replacement.
And before you pull it apart, silicone the plate behind, because if that is leaking the other won't matter and you will just waste time and energy.
In the first picture I posted, use the high temp silicone on the edges of the silver plate. There should already be black silicone in there but add more. Also add some to the perpendicular connection of that plate and the exhaust channel, that had a hint of ash so i siliconed it too, all around just to be safe.
Good luck.
vinny11950
Minister of Fire
j-takeman said:vinny11950 said:Truth hurts, hurts real bad
Pretty pipes that leak=BAD!
Ugly pipes that don't leak=good!
Hard to get pretty pipes that don't leak with duravent. A tip is they do have black HT silicone(permatex ultra black) which makes them slightly better looking if you have the black painted pipes. ;-)
J, when I had to foil tape my pipes, it was very satisfying to admire the finished job. So shiny and tough.
vinny11950
Minister of Fire
Cletus, your other option is to have the dealer who installed it deal with the issue. And if it is the connection, have them order you a new housing/exhaust starter tube combo that seals correctly. I didn't use my dealer because I wouldn't trust him to take out the garbage correctly, but that my not be your case.
It is a PITA doing this yourself, so if you can get Enviro/dealer to fix it right then that may be a better option.
It is a PITA doing this yourself, so if you can get Enviro/dealer to fix it right then that may be a better option.
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