new guy, new stove questions

[markee01]

Hi everyone, new to this site been buring wood for a long time in a drolet baltic, big stove easy to use lots of heat, no issues. My father is a long time regency guy bought a 2400 stove in 2009 for new house, found that stove was to much for house, so he boought a regency pellet stove. This fall decided to give me the stove, nice install 20 ft of masonary chimney, 6x6 tile, everything is good just a little nerve racking when you load for long burn, and secondaries kick in with the damper closed fully this thing rips stove top temp reaches 8- 900 degrees, secondary tubes glowing red I really have no control at this point, just curious if this is somewhat normal? plus wood is very dry 3 year rock maple and beech wood shouldnt be a problem. thanks

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Welcome to the forum markee01.

Wood sounds good for sure but that 8-900 degree temperature sounds a bit on the high side. Perhaps you might need to install a damper on that flue?

As far as the wood, I say congratulations because you have some excellent firewood that has had time to dry.

 

[CTYank]

Hi everyone, new to this site been buring wood for a long time in a drolet baltic, big stove easy to use lots of heat, no issues. My father is a long time regency guy bought a 2400 stove in 2009 for new house, found that stove was to much for house, so he boought a regency pellet stove. This fall decided to give me the stove, nice install 20 ft of masonary chimney, 6x6 tile, everything is good just a little nerve racking when you load for long burn, and secondaries kick in with the damper closed fully this thing rips stove top temp reaches 8- 900 degrees, secondary tubes glowing red I really have no control at this point, just curious if this is somewhat normal? plus wood is very dry 3 year rock maple and beech wood shouldnt be a problem. thanks

Seems you have a pretty tall chimney. As Dennis says- damper might help- pipe damper that is. "Damper closed fully" should just about shut it down.

First though, I'd check that ALL gaskets that might allow primary air entry be checked. Try the "dollar bill test" on the door gaskets (on cold stove, of course):
crack a door and slip a dollar bill into the gap. Close the door and try to pull the bill out. Repeat all around the door edge. Repeat for all doors.

If at any point you can pull the bill out easily, replace that gasket. Most gaskets now are fiberglass rope, held in place with the odd dab of silicone.

When you put large loads of fuel in, with coal-bed in hot stove, place the pieces tight to each other, limiting airflow gaps. Large splits are better suited for long, safe burns. No matter, you should be able to put the fire out by closing primary draft, IMO. If you have "no control" you have a MAJOR problem.

Given the impact this would have on your family's safety, and the WTFs above, I'd suggest you call in a pro today. Then, when problem(s) resolved, save the super-dry wood for startup, and load the less-primo stuff for firebox stuffing, for long burns.

Welcome, and burn long and safely.

 

[BrotherBart]

Couple of items. One you don't need a pipe damper just yet. Two you cannot snuff out a burning load in an EPA certified non-cat stove by just shutting down the primary air.

We all have gone through what you are experiencing. Rather than do a lot of typing I will point you to this thread that pretty much says it all.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/82723/

And welcome to hearth.com. Ya got a nice stove.

 

[markee01]

thanks for the advice, the stove seems really well built. thats why i swapped out the old one as far as leaks go not an issue. removing the ash pan and placing a glove over the air hole going to the secondaries and fire dies. so maybe could be draft issue, i may just try the damper to see what happens, My father runs a fire wood company so getting good wood and getting ahead isnt an issue. Dont worry this winter when the wind is blowing and its -40 ill appriciate the heat!