New stove -- firebrick needed?

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_ABR_

New Member
Feb 17, 2007
8
Hi, I just got a used woodstove (Kent) and it had NO brick in it. Is this the way it is supposed to run or do I need to put brick in it? If so, does it need to be on sides/back, bottom or both? What about the top? Do I need mortar or can I just pack the bricks tightly? Thanks.
 
Hi ABR,

The original Tile Fire and Tile Fire OA didn't have any firebrick in the firebox. You can identify those models by the push-pull baffle bypass rod at the upper right-hand corner above the door. The later LEM models, which burned cleaner, were essentially the original design with 2" thick cast refractory panels covering the floor and sidewalls. The final version, the Tile Fire 2000, was a different animal: it had 1" thick custom-cast refractory sidewall panels, and an arched baffle cast from the same material. The Tile Fire 2000 didn't have a baffle bypass.
 
Thanks, I've got the push-pull and no outside air so I'm guessing I have an original tile fire (1984 manufacture date). So no bricks needed -- good. Hmm, no EPA listing for it -- bad.

Well, anyhow, are there any reasons it might be good to add bricks anyway -- better burning, easier cleanup, anything like that?
 
Many of our customers are still burning unfirebricked Tile Fires purchased from us in the early 80's. Would recommend (as Kent did) you leave an inch or so of ash in the bottom of the firebox, though. Lining the firebox with firebricks might improve your combustion efficiency a bit, but will also make the firebox smaller and shorten your burn time.

One operation note: the Tile Fire's draft control allowed quenching off the air supply to the fire almost completely, and there was no independant air intake for the secondary burn chamber. Take care to leave your draft open enough to support the secondary flames, or your fire will smolder and cause increased creosote formation in your flue.
 
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