New to wood stoves... and something is amiss

[MeghonFire]

Hi all,

So glad to have found this website, as we moved to Maine and are getting into the whole wood-burning thing. We moved into a house with a preexisting Vermont Castings Resolute Acclaim. I have no idea how old it is, but there are some obvious problems with it (missing gaskets on the door, warped damper door). Please be patient with my terminology, as I am still learning!

However, the biggest problem, I think, is what's happening in the back of the firebox, behind the firebricks... I had someone take the pipe out so I could trouble shoot what was keeping the damper door from opening all the way. He reached his hand down into the back of the stove from the pipe opening and started pulling soft material out, which he called "insulation" but I'm not sure what it was. Anyway, he said something along the lines of hating air-tight stoves anyway, and we should do a test burn and see how the baby works.

I can build a fire, yes. It gets somewhat warm, yes. I don't know how warm, because I don't have a thermometer, maybe I need one? It slightly heats the kitchen but does not by a long shot heat up the other rooms. But the biggest issue is (again, I think this is the correct word) with the "draw." When I have the damper open, the fire seems tamer, but when I close the damper, the fire starts roaring.I can audibly hear the chimney suck the fire up. I have to put solid oak pieces in the stove every 30 minutes or so to keep to going. I am not sure if I'm doing something wrong... or if the stove is broken. Or is all of this normal?

What is supposed to happen behind the firebox? Is this something I can fix? Or should I get a new stove because the damper is warped anyway? I looked in a new resolute at the store, and there was a firebrick in there blocking my view so I have no idea what mine is missing.

Thanks for any help. I'd love to just get a new stove, but due to restraints from the tiny hearth and my very low thimble, I would probably be limited to buying the same exact stove anyway.

 

[begreen]

Welcome. The Resolute Acclaim is a troublesome stove. It was designed with a soft refractory material that is notorious for breaking down quickly. The problem is not with "air-tight" stoves but with this particular design. The solution is an expensive rebuild which may only last a few years. It's a pretty stove, but I recommend considering replacement.

 

[Dix]

Welcome to the forums

Can you get us some pics of your set up, and some measurements as to your size restrictions?

 

[Kabir424]

Hi all,
But the biggest issue is (again, I think this is the correct word) with the "draw." When I have the damper open, the fire seems tamer, but when I close the damper, the fire starts roaring.I can audibly hear the chimney suck the fire up. I have to put solid oak pieces in the stove every 30 minutes or so to keep to going. I am not sure if I'm doing something wrong... or if the stove is broken. Or is all of this normal?

Is it possible you have your idea of "open" and "closed" reversed because that is what it sounds like? I know that growing up our wood stove would be closed down by pushing in the damper and opened up by pulling it open. However, my mom's wood stove is opened up by pushing in the damper and it is closed by pulling it out.

 

[begreen]

The Acclaim is a top loader with a bypass damper. I was assuming the OP meant closing the bypass which then routes the flue gases though the reburn chamber at the back of the stove. Meghon, is that correct or am I smokin dope?

 

[MeghonFire]

Begreen I think you are correct. The damper is at the rear of the stove, near the top. I pull it closed, push it open. I believe this is then meant to push the gases down to the bottom opening of the stove (reburn chamber I guess?) but I'm thinking there is something missing in this reburn chamber. Does the reburn chamber system only keep the stove more environmentally friendly? Or does it also control fire temp and burn time?

 

[MeghonFire]

resolute

• MeghonFire
• Jan 9, 2016

Here's my setup. This is NOT TO CODE, and I know that. We looked into making our hearth bigger and financially it isn't in the cards right now. That being said, I hate that my tiny hearth and short thimble restricts the stoves I can buy. For reference, the radius of this hearth is about 45.5", and the middle of the thimble is at 28" height. I don't know if there is enough room for a back-vented stove. Having a hard time finding another top loader that is as short as the Resolute Acclaim. But I don't think I want to replace it with another that, as begreen said, will need repairs in a few short years.... sorry waiting for my photo to be approved.

 

[Simonkenton]

Your problem in two words: Vermont Castings.
Buy a Jotul.

 

[MeghonFire]

I want a Jotul 3CB, I'm just not sure the thing will fit.

 

[Dix]

resolute

• MeghonFire
• Jan 9, 2016

Here's my setup. This is NOT TO CODE, and I know that. We looked into making our hearth bigger and financially it isn't in the cards right now. That being said, I hate that my tiny hearth and short thimble restricts the stoves I can buy. For reference, the radius of this hearth is about 45.5", and the middle of the thimble is at 28" height. I don't know if there is enough room for a back-vented stove. Having a hard time finding another top loader that is as short as the Resolute Acclaim. But I don't think I want to replace it with another that, as begreen said, will need repairs in a few short years.... sorry waiting for my photo to be approved.

Can you vent directly upwards?

 

[MeghonFire]

Sorry Dix, what do you mean? Move the thimble?

 

[DBoon]

A Lopi Republic 1250 or Answer will fit under the thimble - not sure about the other clearances....

 

[Dix]

Sorry Dix, what do you mean? Move the thimble?

Can you direct vent upwards to the roof?

As in forget the thimble, and start a new?

 

[MeghonFire]

We have a second story. Thanks for the ideas DBoon, are those dependable stoves in your opinion? I don't need the best stove in the world, as we also have oil heat, but I also don't want to have to replace/rebuild it every 5 years like the Vermont castings stoves seem to need

 

[jrems]

Look for a new rear vent stove. As long as the rear vent is the same height or shorter it will be fine as you can always place bricks under the feet to raise it up if needed. You should be able to find a jotul, hearthstone, or other stove to fit in there. Some stoves also might have heat shields available to reduce clearances although it does look tight. Either way you will need to extend the hearth to have 16-18" in front of the stove.

 

[DBoon]

The Lopi stoves are very good quality, but they won't be the cheapest. The Answer is a smaller stove that is side-jacketed so that it has reduced clearances compared to some other stove. It's not the largest, but it does put out a lot of heat for its size. I've been quite happy with mine. It provides good heat to my 1250 square foot house in a cold climate, and heats the house by itself down to about 20 degrees F. I think you will not find many people on this site with this particular stove, but you will find others with the Lopi brand, and they are quite happy with the brand overall, from what I've read.

The Answer and 1250 vent through the top, so it looks to me like it might be a drop-in replacement for what you have already, and you may find a way to get 16" clearance in front as well, though your hearth does look pretty tight for front clearance.

I don't see how any rear-vent stove will come close to meeting clearance requirements without a major hearth rebuild.

 

[Dix]

We have a second story. Thanks for the ideas DBoon, are those dependable stoves in your opinion? I don't need the best stove in the world, as we also have oil heat, but I also don't want to have to replace/rebuild it every 5 years like the Vermont castings stoves seem to need

Can you move / install a new thimble higher up, and go up and out higher than the current thimble? Is that economically feasible? With the low cost of oil right now, you could offset the "rearrangement" by burning the oil.

Just a thought.

 

[begreen]

According to the manual the Jotul F3CB's rear exit flue center is at 22 9/16". The hearth could be built up to align the stove's flue to about 1/2" below the thimble center to allow for a slight upward incline toward the chimney.

 

[tcassavaugh]

since you are going to eventually redo the hearth, what about taking the two layers of brick and putting a hearth or stove pad under underneath it for protection temporarily. just a thought, that would allow you to move the stove around a little to better fit the installation.