New water heater , now need new wood stove.

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sledhead41

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 16, 2007
19
Circle Pines, Minnesota
I just had a new water heater installed and it wont stay lit at higher thermastat settings. The plumber says the 30 year old Sierra wood stove is robbing air from the house and water heater. Has anyone had trouble with new water heater and old wood stove?
The plumber says I have to vent combustion chamber from outside. Makes sence, do the new wood stoves have a good way of venting outside air to fire, or is it just a hose from outside to stove? What kind of stove would you guys recommend? I have been burning for 30 years with older stoves. I have seen you guys talk about a CAT. I assume that means a catalictic converter of some kind. I have a 4 bedroom ranch and fans to move the heat throughout the house, so fans on the stove shouldent be needed, or should they. The wood stove has it's own masonary chimney . I have access to run outside air,from above,close to stove.
I have a verry nice brick hearth, I guess I can hide a hose with someting. Any suggestions, stove is in basement family room.
Thanks
Don
PS I am still looking on this site for all info.
 
Welcome Don. This is a common issue, though I'm surprised it didn't show up with the previous heater. Are there other competing devices in the basement as well? (dryer, furnace, bath fan) If you do a search on OAK (outside air kit) + basement, you should get several discussions on the subject.

As to stove choices, there are plenty of them. You could stick with a modern version of the Sierra connected to an OAK. It will provide good heat and will burn less wood. The Englander 30NC and the Quadrafire 5700 are big, non-CAT, clean burning stoves. The Pacific Energy Summit stove is also very popular. This is assuming you are looking for a big stove. If you can provide a bit more information about the size of the space you are heating and the climate locale, we can narrow the choices. If you have a picture of the current setup that you could post, that would be great.
 
Yes there is a furnace and dryer. We put in a OAK in the furnace room. Works better but not enough, and is UGLY.
My house is about 1200 square feet upstairs and 800 sqf basement.
I have sealed 2 floor trusses like a cold air return for a furnace, above the stove and installed 2 fans on a thermastat to force the heat upstairs into the living room and kitchen, with cold air holes in the bed rooms to circulate the heat. I have a large old Sierra wood stove and can heat the whole house in centeral Minnesota at 15 below 0 today. If you look above the right side of the stove in the picture you can see a blank spot in the brick. That used to be the old elect. panel. I could run the OAK from their and then find some kind of stone to fill the rest of the spot.
I was reading the new stoves,burn 1/3 less wood. WOW 1/3 less trips down stairs.
Thanks again Don







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OK, go for a big stove. If you're trying to save some money, call around to all the local Home Depots and see if you can find an Englander 30NC on sale and in stock. If you are lucky, you will have a big, stout, replacement stove for under $700. If you go through a dealer, take a look at the big Pacific Energy, Quadrafire. Lopi and Avalon stoves. Just stick with a 3 cu ft unit and I think you'll be happy.
 
Thanks BeGreen, I have been trying some of the Home Depots and Lowes. Most dont know wood stove from fire pit. One lady asked if it was too cold to be on the patio.
Don
 
Leaving a door or window open for a test period should be a rather evidenciary proof of lack of air, no ?
 
sledhead41 said:
Thanks BeGreen, I have been trying some of the Home Depots and Lowes. Most dont know wood stove from fire pit. One lady asked if it was too cold to be on the patio.
Don

Persist. Ask for someone that is in charge of this department.
 
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