new windows > noticeable difference

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Prometeo

Minister of Fire
Jan 7, 2022
623
IT
just installed new windows, double glazing, now I can say that the stove heats well, I had read that double glazing, compared to single glass, (and drafts of air) I would have earned 40 percent, I don't know however, the difference is evident. I measure temperatures in the kitchen, which is another room than the stove, and now it is over 70s previously it was difficult to exceed 60s I have no other insulation
 
Nice upgrade. I think you will find it quieter as well.
 
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Surely going from single to double pane will make a difference. Also if the new windows air seal better (less drafts).

I have gone from leaky old 2-pane windows to very tight 3-pane windows and I could feel a significant difference in rooms farther from the stove.
 
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If you want to see an even bigger difference consider double cellular blinds with side tracks. They make a big difference in radiant losses. I can sit right in front of a window on a cold night and not worry about the cold feeling being near a window. This thermal image was taken when it was -20 F (-28.8 C) of a double pane with a double cellular blinds. The blinds are spaced out from the window 4 or 5 inches and it sets up a convection loop in between the window and the blinds. The blinds only have seals on the sides not the bottom.



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LR_insulated window and minisplit.jpg
 
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If you want to see an even bigger difference consider double cellular blinds with side tracks. They make a big difference in radiant losses. I can sit right in front of a window on a cold night and not worry about the cold feeling being near a window. This thermal image was taken when it was -20 F (-28.8 C) of a double pane with a double cellular blinds. The blinds are spaced out from the window 4 or 5 inches and it sets up a convection loop in between the window and the blinds. The blinds only have seals on the sides not the bottom.



. View attachment 326209
You have a pic of those blinds?
 
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Not off hand but here is a catalog cut


And most importantly the side tracks


I originally had a set without side tracks and there were a lot more air leaks.

They also have light blocking shades with hidden layer of foil in the fabric, Really nice when I had to work shifts and wanted a dark bedroom.

The other thing to order is the cord loop operators. They are lot more robust than the other systems.
 
I have light filtering double cell shades on several of my windows and they make a huge different. I don't have the side track ones, just the regular pull down without any cords (because I have cats). I have a garden window (triple pane I believe, but at least double pane, argon filled) in the bathroom and with the shade pulled down it will definitely keep the cold or hot air (depending on season) contained. During winter it will be in the 40's behind the shade while the bathroom is at 66-68*. I have to remove the house plants from that window during winter because it stays too cold for them to thrive.

Since all the windows with these shades are bay/garden windows, I also have curtains which also adds a layer of protection from air leaking around the edges. I have the curtains closed at night and open during the day which lets in just enough light for navigating a dark room. Of course if the sun is out during winter, I open up the shades to profit from the solar gain.

I got the custom size Levolor shades from Blinds.com, which at the time had the best price and color selection. I was happy with both the place I bought them from and the shades themselves.

Bathroom blind.jpg Bathroom curtains gradient-original.jpg
 
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BTW, they are not inexpensive, but compared to a new window or the adder for a Eurostyle triple pane, its less money with a high R value plus is far better dealing with radiant loss. The weak point on them is the thin cords inside the blind that pull the up the blinds. In the lower cost units, these cords are routed over tiny pulleys and then routed to the side of the blind through a friction catch and then are used to raise the blind. The cords tend to wear out and break. I have also heard that some cats will play with the cords and wear them out. I have also heard of cats climbing them with their claws, the blind material is fairly thin and i expect a determined cat may discover that they can poke holes through it with their claws. I have never poked a hole any of mine.

The blinds can be restrung by the shop who made them and there are websites that will sell you kits but I have tried to do it to a couple of my originals and its not as easy as one would think as a lot of the hardware is plastic and not really designed that robust. They can be shipped back but the shipping is costly and few people save the specialized packaging needed to protect them in shipping. The cord reel style, spring loaded or motorized ones with the thin cords not exposed seem to last longer as the cords are hung off a rod in the header of the blind and roll up on a shaft. There is no friction catch and they are far less exposed. The trade off is the cord loop style is not recomended for a home with kids around as they are a potential hazard. There is some hardware supplied to keep it tight and less prone to an accident but still is a remote risk.

The sidetrack option is definitely harder to find but worth it. The tracks are held against the window frame with a magnetic strip and can be removed. It makes installation a lot easier. If someone in the US has not taken advantage of the home energy credit, the extra cost for the tracks can be covered by the credit. (note most folks have long ago used up the cumulative $1,200 credit). I have always bought mine from the same place in Vermont, that I linked to as they are "made in Vermont" but I suspect they are assembled and customized in VT out of imported components. They were the first place I found with the side tracks option. I originally was looking for window quilts that were popular 40 years ago during the first energy crunch but there are superior and when pulled up there is little visual impact on the window opening.
 
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I will talk to my wife about these darkening systems.
These windows are nearly 5 feet high,
compared to the floor (it's a basement) so there will be no problems with the strings.

Drafts are eliminated, I'll have to use the handle to activate the microventilation function now!

IMG_20240329_111729.jpg IMG_20240329_111828.jpg
 
We put double cell accordion type upstairs. We tried to go cordless and be free of cords. Half of them don’t work right now. They look fine when pulled down so they’re still there for the moment. They don’t raise evenly. They look all jacked up when one side raises and the other doesn’t, lol. Part of the reason they stay is I don’t go upstairs. If I don’t see it, I can ignore the issue.
 
I have 3 large windows that are only double pane and I put double cell cellular shades and huge difference in my drafty old cottage.it can get to -40 so I need all the help I can get.