New wood stove not putting out enough heat

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Lsingle

New Member
Dec 2, 2019
42
Battery point
I have a brand new englander smart stove and for the life of me I cant get the house hot. I cant even get the room the wood stove in hotter then 75. The same room the stove is in. It just doesnt seem to be putting much heat out.

When i open the door the fire starts to ignite and start roaring but once I close the door it slows way down.

I have the outside airline hooked up to it as well.

It's a smart stove rated for 2000sq feet
 
Definitely not wet wood. I been. Ironing wood for many years and this wood has been cut and split for 2 years in good sunlight and ventilation not to mention was dead when I cut it. Definitely not wet wood.

The flue comes out my stove. Vertical.for 2ft then horizontal for 3feet until in chimney.
I also have the double wall pipe.

But definitely not wet wood. This is my first new stove
 
My chimney is roughly 25 to 30 feet. It starts under the ground so hard to find where the stove pipe meets the chimney. The top of the stove running as hot as I can get it is around 300 but that is read with a temperature laser not with a magnetic thermometer.

When I open the stove the fire starts roaring.
I also have a lot of ash build up
I'm using mostly hickory oak and cherry
 
My chimney is roughly 25 to 30 feet. It starts under the ground so hard to find where the stove pipe meets the chimney.

Can you explain that further? Not sure what that means. Sounds like maybe it could be open at the bottom? Which would kill your stove pipe draft. A pic or two might help.
 
I can get summers heat smart stove up to 600 easily. Sitting at 450 now 15 min after reload.

This is in the basement? Tell us about the fresh air; how long, where does it go, how big, what type of pipe.

after the pipe goes into the chimney does it 90 up into insulated pipe or does it just dump into the old chimney?

If your wood is dry like you say it is (I have 2 year old split oak under cover and in sun that is still high moisture) then you may just not have enough air going into the stove.
 
Have you checked the wood with a moisture meter? Two year split and stacked wood should be good to burn, but there isnt a guarantee. The only way to guarantee the wood isnt the problem (which all your symptoms sound like wet wood) is to check it with a moisture meter. They are only like $30 at home depot or amazon.
 
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You say you've burned wood before in an older stove? Was it in the same location?
There could be a couple issues. With a basement install the stove is below the 'neutral pressure plane' of the house. The house is essentially a large chimney, with warm air escaping from the top through leaks, attic access door, ceiling light fixtures etc. so that will pull cold air into the house below the NPP, including trying to pull air down the flue. It may not be able to actually do that, but it can slow your draft. Did you ever notice a 'chimney smell' in the basement in seasons when the stove wasn't running, indicating a 'stack effect' happening in the house?
This stack effect can be overcome if you get the flue hot enough but if you are dumping the pipe into a clay-liner masonry chimney, the flue gasses expand and cool rapidly, and draft slows. In this case, it's better to run a 6" insulated liner all the way to the top.
 
Tell us more about this fresh air intake. If you used a dryer vent did you remove the flapper?
 
Tell us more about this fresh air intake.
Oops, I missed that. That would eliminate house stack effect, but not reduced draft due to dumping into a clay liner.
Lsingle, is it dumping into 12x12 clay liner?
 
The top of the stove running as hot as I can get it is around 300 but that is read with a temperature laser not with a magnetic thermometer.
300 is just not enough. You should be running almost twice that. Either air is restricted somewhere or the wood is wet. Try some very dry wood to see if it makes a difference ,if not its the air, either in or out.
 
Oops, I missed that. That would eliminate house stack effect, but not reduced draft due to dumping into a clay liner.
Lsingle, is it dumping into 12x12 clay liner?
I have an englander NC-30 that dumps into a cold 12x12 liner and it goes right to 650 degree(and higher) stove top temps. So that is not a deal breaker in all cases.
 
Thsnks for all the replies.
I definitely think it's an air intake issue. My old stove was just a homemade metal box. And I used to have a bad draft issue and smoke would keep getting back into the house

My stove pipe enters a 8x8masonry chimney about 2 feet under the ground and then its 26ft to the top of the chimney. Plenty of exhaust and I dont have any smoke or draft issues anymore.

My outside air line is a 4in PVC pipe through the wall to a flexible dryer vent into a 3in adapter into the stove. The dryer vent from stove to fresh air is approximately 10ft.

Again if I leave the door open I can get it roaring but obviously I cant leave the door open allday.
 
Seeing how its a new stove, does something need to be removed for the OAK? Like a block off plate?
 
Is the intake penetration of the outside wall higher than the floor of your stove?
 
Im not sure if there's something special that needs removed. I did not see anything that needed removed and it was not indicated in the instructions

The Airintake outlet (where it goes through the wall) is approximately 5ft above where the vent goes into the stove.

I think I will unhook the outside air and see if it makes a difference.
 
Shouldn't the air intake components all be below the stove elevation?