newbe with questions about jotul oslo>>> whats a fair price.

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ncmallard78

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 8, 2007
62
NC
first time to you site... god i love the internet. anywho, here is my question.

i love to burn wood. I live in nc, where we have mild winters. i have a 2400 sq foot house single story ranch. i have a central masonary fireplace and would like to put in a wood stove. couple of questions.

1-I was told that the way to go was with a jotul oslo. what is a fair price for one installed?

2-can i control the heat? this is my tv room and i dont want it to be a sauna. will i end up stewing in my own juices if i sit a couple of feet awaw

3- ive got a baby on the way? is there a way to keep kids away from em?

4- ive got a cedar roof. is that an issue? safety is a big deal, although i would want to burn wood if i did not get a wood stove

5- my perception is that a wood stove would be safer than an open flame fire. is that true?

thanks for all your help...
 
The Oslo installed with liner and block off plate installed in front of the fireplace will be in $3,000 territory. If you have a hearth big enough that it won't need to be extended or a fireplace large enough to put the stove inside of it.

Keeping the baby away from a stove or from the fireplace ain't a dimes worth of difference. You will be spending three years keeping the young'un away from thousands of things. Baby fences are available for stoves and fireplaces.

You can't sit a couple of feet away from any wood stove unless it doesn't have a fire in it. You can't sit a couple of feet from a fireplace with a good fire in it.

You will get a lot less burning embers tossed out on that shake roof with a stove than you will with a fireplace.

A stove with a closed door or a fireplace with a screen are a wash on the safety side.
 
ncmallard78 said:
first time to you site... god i love the internet. anywho, here is my question.

i love to burn wood. I live in nc, where we have mild winters. i have a 2400 sq foot house single story ranch. i have a central masonary fireplace and would like to put in a wood stove. couple of questions.

1-I was told that the way to go was with a jotul oslo. what is a fair price for one installed?

Jotuls are nice stoves, but they are FAR from your only option. You might want to look at other brands as well, and also think about what size of stove you want and so on. Since you have an existing masonry fireplace, you might want to consider getting an insert as opposed to a stove.

Do you want the stove to be a heat source, or do you just want "enjoy the flames" ambiance? If a heat source, how much of your house do you want to heat with it? What's the floor plan like - open or not? Would you burn 24/7, nights and weekends, or just ocasionally? What kind of wood would you be burning, where will you get it, and will you need to process it? These sorts of questions will impact the size and type of unit you'll want.

Note that if you just want to enjoy watching the fire, the existing fireplace might actually be your best bet - they suck heat, but an open fireplace will give you more of the sound and feel than any stove or insert...

2-can i control the heat? this is my tv room and i dont want it to be a sauna. will i end up stewing in my own juices if i sit a couple of feet awaw

You can control the heat to some degree, both by using the stove controls and by the size of fire you build, but there are limits. NFPA rules say anything combustible (you, pets, furniture, etc.) should be kept at least 3' away from the stove, I would guess most folks would generally want to stay at least 5 feet away for comfort, more if you get the stove cranking. One advantage of an insert is that it goes into your existing fireplace box, so it will require minimal additional loss of room space.

3- ive got a baby on the way? is there a way to keep kids away from em?

You can get kid gates for stoves just like you can to keep them away from almost anything else. Many parenting burners here use them, others have reported that their kids are reasonably fast learners, and are very good about figuring out staying away from the hot stove...

4- ive got a cedar roof. is that an issue? safety is a big deal, although i would want to burn wood if i did not get a wood stove

Probably not a major problem, but if paranoid it probably would be a good idea to make sure you had a good spark arrestor on the chimney. Down side is they have more of a tendency to clog up, so you may need to clean the cap more often, and you can't do that without actually going up on the roof.

5- my perception is that a wood stove would be safer than an open flame fire. is that true?

Only to a minor degree. Closing the door on an insert or woodstove very effectively seals the fire into a box. The odds of a fire starting because the box failed is negligible. However as long as you use appropriate screens or glass doors, a conventional fireplace is also pretty safe. For the most part safety with either depends more on the operator than on the appliance.

thanks for all your help...

No problem, welcome to the hearth!

Gooserider
 
I can only answer what the price of the stove itself is here in Vermont (I almost bought one a month ago) and the brochure is right here with quotes I scribbled...

1999.00 Matte Black
2299.00 Blue/Black enamel
2399.00 Colors

I know this doesn't help allot but thought it might be interesting.
 
i was qouted $3,200 installed. guy is local and carries jotul and hearthstone. says he gets fewer complaints with the jotul. my house is very open, and my fireplace is in the middle of the house. wood here is pretty expensive, but i love to tend a fire.
 
nc, do you have a written quote? If so could you break out materials and labor? The $3200 includes a liner? If so, the price seems fair.

So far I've been happy with my oslo. It's def a 24x7 stove.
 
As I recall... the store was offering a 100.00 delivery and for 150.00 more they would install... I didn't get into what the install included, as I wasn't interested in either of the extras.

I hope I don't regret not getting the Oslo, it was a hard choice to make, good luck!
 
that qoute does not include labor. he wants another 1k for installation. total cost is 4200 dollars. thats a lot of money.
 
ncmallard78" said:
i was qouted $3,200 installed.

[quote author="ncmallard78]that qoute does not include labor. he wants another 1k for installation. total cost is 4200 dollars. thats a lot of money.[/quote]

Okay, now I'm confused. Could you please break out the materials and labor? Also, a brief description of the work to be performed? $4,200 sounds very high, but we have no idea what that includes. I'd get some more prices because you may discover that a diff installer may have a diff take on your situation.
 
central nc. prices break down to 2k for stove, 1k for duravent chimney liner and parts, and 1k to install. $4,200 all in. about fell out of my chair.
 
fyi, i live in a 1 story brick ranch built in the 60's. fireplace looks to have been used hardly at all. part of my reason for a woodstove is the fireplace is pretty shallow, and i know i want to be able to burn wood there. seems as though most of the cost is in the chimney conversion and the labor. this looks to be a dealbreaker...
 
Yeh, it sounds high to me. My dealer's install price was about $450 labor and that's in MASS, which has a higher cost of living than NC. Folks have posted links on here before w/liner kits that are about $300. Including the stove, you'd still be well under 3K. I think Jotul has a fixed pricing model for the stove, so maybe shop around for another installer or DIY?

Anyone else?
 
ncmallard78 said:
central nc. prices break down to 2k for stove, 1k for duravent chimney liner and parts, and 1k to install. $4,200 all in. about fell out of my chair.

If that's a SS flex-vent and of reasonable length (25 ft) $1K is a TON of money for that.....you can buy a good ss flex vent kit for about $ 440

http://chimneylinerinc.com/red_chimney.htm

now...for about $250 more you can get the full 1/2" insulation liner that gives you the 2100 F rating against chimney fires all for about $680. What exactly does he give you for the $1K?
 
Jotul Oslo Woodburning Stove in Matte Black 1,999.00
6" DuraVent Chimney Liner for a 15' chimney: Stainless Connector 45., Oval Tee 125.,
36" Oval Flex 115., (3) 48" Oval Rigid Insulated Lengths 525., 1,010.00
Termination Kit 175., Rock Wool Insulation 25.
Subtotal 3159.
Less Discount (101.00)

plus 1,100-1,300 installed.

total installed is 4,200.

what do yall think?
 
Well at least he gave you a discount. ;)

I say shop around for another jotul dealer or look at other brands if no more jotul dealers in your area.
 
what should be the cost of a material to install my stove? again, 1 story house with a clean chimney. it was suggested i get an ss flex kit. what are my options??? thanks!
 
Did you look at the link posted by Castiron ? http://chimneylinerinc.com/red_chimney.htm

You may need to figure out whether a round flex will make it all the way through to where the stove will stand. The quote has some oval sections in there which maybe you need and maybe not. Your best bet is to get a second and third quote.

Other stoves to look at in a similar price range: Harman Oakwood, Morso 7110, 3610, Pacific Energy T5, Vermont Castings Defiant. The Harman and the Vermont Casting stoves will have bigger install clearances than the Euro stoves, primarily because the European have smaller homes so space is always at a premium. If your hearth is totally masonry, maybe the clearances won't be an issue but that is rare. For a small price premium, you could have any of the Soapstone stoves (Hearthstone or Woodstock Soapstone). These stoves have some of the highest ratings of any stoves on the market. Woodstock is sold directly from the factory. They look nice too. Other distinguishing details: The Harman Oakwood and VC Defiant can be loaded through the door or top loaded, which may be a nice feature depending on your setup. Many of the soapstone stoves are side loaded, in fact on the woodstock stoves many have no front door that opens at all. This allows for a shallower floor protector on the front, which may or may not be important in your layout.

Other considerations: The visual appearance of the burn is different with catalytic and non catalytic stoves. Most people like the appearance of the burn on many of the newer non catalytic stoves. The only downside is that the catalytic stoves tend to have the longer burn times. Pacific energy being one of the exceptions, since they have some "superior" technology to give a long burn without the catalyst.

Are you handy ? If you are, you could save a bunch of money and be sure that the instalation is safe by doing the install yourself. Otherwise, you need an honest installer.

ncmallard78 said:
what should be the cost of a material to install my stove? again, 1 story house with a clean chimney. it was suggested i get an ss flex kit. what are my options??? thanks!
 
i just got a quote for 1100 installed. he is coming by tomorrow. he wants an extra 200 dollars for insulation. do you think that insulating the pipe makes sense? again, thanks for your help!!!!
 
ncmallard78 said:
i just got a quote for 1100 installed. he is coming by tomorrow. he wants an extra 200 dollars for insulation. do you think that insulating the pipe makes sense? again, thanks for your help!!!!

Generally insulation is a good thing, but you probably don't really "need" it. Since you are in NC, and have an inside chimney, your milder climate and the inside the envelope chimney means that you won't get as much draft improvement as someone in a colder climate and / or with an outside chimney would. Since you said your chimney is in good shape, you also don't need the insulation to get your NFPA rating.

Insulating certainly wouldn't hurt, but it probably also won't do you a great deal of good. However you do want to insist on a blockoff plate, top and bottom.

Another thing to look at is your chimney height - it may be tight since you said you are in a single floor house. Not sure about the Oslo, but some Jotuls have the reputation of being fussy about their draft. Most stoves require a minimum 13-15' of flue height to meet the installation instructions and to get proper operatation. If you have any elbows in the flue, you have to subtract 5' for each elbow from the actual height to get the "effective height", that must meet or beat the minimum standard. You definitely need to measure, and MAY need to extend your chimney.

Gooserider
 
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