NW CT- any knife makers out there?

[Exmasonite]

Hey all... as i'm spending a lot of time on this forum, figured i'd ask here before heading over to bladeforums, etc.

So, got a real nice custom knife a few years back. Ended up contacting the manufacturer a few weeks back about getting a few more knives, something to match that would round out the set.

Well, due to some health issues, the knifemaker is now retired. He did have a few blanks left... i picked up 2 blades that are heat treated and partially ground along with some matching micarta to do the handles.

While I am somewhat handy, the final grinding on these blades are likely going to be beyond my capability. I have a bench grinder but probably has too sharp an angle and as a novice, i'd likely wreck the blades. No belt grinder here. I see myself able to do the handle making... or at least get to that poin.

Anybody do any amateur/professional knife or tool making that might be able to finish these blades for me or know of any local knifemakers I might get in touch with? I'm leaning toward local (I'm in torrington, ct) b/c i'd like to bring the knife i have to give the person an idea of what i'm looking for.

I hope that makes sense. Thanks in advance.

 

[rustynut]

Ex,
Dont know just how much more work you need on those blades but there are a couple of sharpening kits available which may get the job done for you.
The one i have has 4 or 5 different grades of stones and a fixture for holding the correct angle consistantly.
Might check Smokey Mountain Knife Works or just check on line............
Sorry, dont remember the brand i have. Gatco i think.
Similar to a Lansky but with wider stones.
rn

 

[Sisu]

Check out Don Fogg's Bladesmith's Forum at http://forums.dfoggknives.com/ . You should be able to find a local bladesmith that might be able to help you.

 

[Exmasonite]

Sisu-

thanks for the link, i will check that out. Will also peek in at bladeforums.

Rusty-

One of the knives is "mostly" ground and I could probably finish with a file but the other blank is completely unground.... needs more than a sharpener, more like a belt sander/grinder.

I am debating whether i want to tackle this myself... harbor freight has a small grinder for < $50. It's only a 1" wide belt but then again, the blade in question is 2.25" so not like it's a huge amount of territory. Will likely need to get some heavier duty belts (ceramic or similar) and even then, i will likely eat through several belts but for one knife, may be the way to go.

I worry more about wrecking an essentially irreplaceable blank... probably gonna practice on 5-6 other pieces of metal before putting that anywhere near the grinder.

all in all, though, i think the knife would have more sentimental value to me if i finished it myself and figured out how to work the micarta.

 

[woodmeister]

kdc knives in central conn. interesting stuff

 

[Sisu]

Sisu-

thanks for the link, i will check that out. Will also peek in at bladeforums.

Rusty-

One of the knives is "mostly" ground and I could probably finish with a file but the other blank is completely unground.... needs more than a sharpener, more like a belt sander/grinder.

I am debating whether i want to tackle this myself... harbor freight has a small grinder for < $50. It's only a 1" wide belt but then again, the blade in question is 2.25" so not like it's a huge amount of territory. Will likely need to get some heavier duty belts (ceramic or similar) and even then, i will likely eat through several belts but for one knife, may be the way to go.

I worry more about wrecking an essentially irreplaceable blank... probably gonna practice on 5-6 other pieces of metal before putting that anywhere near the grinder.

all in all, though, i think the knife would have more sentimental value to me if i finished it myself and figured out how to work the micarta.

This belt sander motor might not be powerful enough to the task. If you want to tackle it yourself, I would recommend saving your money and using a hand file instead. You can remove a fair bit of material with a hand file and you have more control.

Once you have the final shape, then use water stones or various grit sand paper to get a rough polish. Then the blade will be ready for hardening. Make sure you leave some thickness on the edge. Otherwise the blade can easily crack during the quench.

 

[Exmasonite]

Sisu-

Sorry but i'm an obvious novice here... will i be looking to quench these pieces? It's D2 steel that's already gotten a Bos heat treat. From what i've been reading, keeping oil on the blade during the grind is key but i am hoping I don't have anymore HT to do.

 

[Sisu]

Sisu-

Sorry but i'm an obvious novice here... will i be looking to quench these pieces? It's D2 steel that's already gotten a Bos heat treat. From what i've been reading, keeping oil on the blade during the grind is key but i am hoping I don't have anymore HT to do.

My mistake! I had forgotten that the blades had been hardened. I would still recommend polishing by hand with various grits of sandpaper. This belt sander is probably not powerful or rugged enough and you might burn through more than belts.

You can use a flat metal bar and spray glue a cut to fit sheet of sandpaper to the center of the bar, using each end as a handle. It might be slower vs electric, but you have more control and can see mistakes before they become permanent. Depending on the condition of the blade, you can start from 250 to 400 to 600 to 800 to 1000 to 1500 to 2000, if you want a mirror finish. Or just go to 800 for a working knife.

Using oil for electic belt sanding is problematic because it will smoke a lot and the blade can still get pretty hot. Since the blades are hardened, you want to keep the heat to a minimum. Hand polishing is one way to keep the heat down.