okay to poke the fire?

[wowser]

I have a new insert and am learning... Most times my logs get down to coal chunks in 1 to 1.5 hours. I find the fire gets going again if I open the door and stir the pile of coals around. Usually there's a big chunk of unburnt wood in the back and if I dig it up and move it on the coals I get more heat. Is this bad?

Also, finding I usually can't damper down more than half way. I seem to get better burns at the halfway mark. I know I have a short stack (a little over 14'). If the damper just opens up the air vents in the front, is it just relative to the draw? In other words, shorter stack = more open damper. Longer stack = more closed damper. And what's most important is the burn; a hot bed of coals and bright flame instead of a smoldering one?

Thanks everyone!

 

[North of 60]

Dry wood should also be on that list of yours. ;-)

 

[North of 60]

Put your stove in your signature. That is always a plus so people can compare.

 

[Jags]

Put your stove in your signature. That is always a plus so people can compare.

Yeah, without knowing what stove you are trying to run it is difficult to give any opinion on burn time and operation.

 

[wowser]

I'll put this info in my sig, but for now:

Century CB0005 2 cubic feet insert
14-1/2' ss liner
mix of hard and soft wood, 20% or less on meter (most <15%)

 

[oldspark]

When its cold and and I need more heat I poke, rake, drag and load in a middle of a cycle, gloves are coming off (actually going on) to keep warm.

 

[pyper]

In other words, shorter stack = more open damper. Longer stack = more closed damper.

I've been thinking about that recently. I'm not an expert, but here's my thinking:

If you have a better drought, for whatever reason, then the stack will draw more air through a given size opening (faster velocity). Contra wise, in order to get the same air flow, it seems like one would need to have a more open air control if your stack is sub-optimal.

My conclusion is that one shouldn't worry about the position of the lever, so long as there is at least some setting that provides a good, clean burn.

As far as poking the fire, a lot of people say it's best to build the fire and let it burn, but sometimes my fire will settle funny as it goes down, and I know that if I open the door a crack and move the log a hair it will go from smoking to burning. So in a case like that, I open it. Also, after it's mostly burned down I will stir the coals prior to adding more wood.

 

[Wood Duck]

Poking the coals to make them burn = OK in my book, you just don't want to overdo it because you are letting cold air in and flushing hot out up the stack. i sometimes find the same thing - big coals in the corners that will burn more if I pull them to the center front.

I think you're right about the stack. If you had a really tall stack pulling really hard on the air, you'd get the same amount of air through a much smaller opening.

I think what you want is lively flame at the wood and secondary flames when you have reasonably fresh wood, and glowing coals when you're down to coals.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I have a new insert and am learning... Most times my logs get down to coal chunks in 1 to 1.5 hours. I find the fire gets going again if I open the door and stir the pile of coals around. Usually there's a big chunk of unburnt wood in the back and if I dig it up and move it on the coals I get more heat. Is this bad?

Also, finding I usually can't damper down more than half way. I seem to get better burns at the halfway mark. I know I have a short stack (a little over 14'). If the damper just opens up the air vents in the front, is it just relative to the draw? In other words, shorter stack = more open damper. Longer stack = more closed damper. And what's most important is the burn; a hot bed of coals and bright flame instead of a smoldering one?

Thanks everyone!

Just judging by the description you give with the coals and the draft, I'd say your wood is not as dry as needed. Regardless of what you found on the moisture content, what kind of wood are you burning, when was it cut, when was it split and how and where was it stacked to dry?

 

[wowser]

<<what kind of wood are you burning

Eucalyptus, Ash, Sycamore, Juniper, Cedar, Elm, Fichus, Pine (from ad).

<<when was it cut, when was it split and how and where was it stacked to dry?
Don't know as I bought it on Craigslist. Where I live land is measured in square feet, not acres, so I don't have trees to cut and burn myself. The seller said the wood was seasoned for a year, but who knows. I did buy a moisture meter and test it; most came up between 15-20%; a few of the really dark and large splits were 48%, but I am not using them. I did split the wood to test. The wood is stacked in a 1/2 cord rack against the side of my house and under an overhang so it doesn't get wet.

 

[Martin Strand III]

DRAFT: What I've learned
1. You need mfg recommended chimney length, at least
2. You need to follow the chimney 10-3-2 rule
3. Colder outside temps increase draft
4. Excess offsets in chimney decrease draft
5. Larger diameter chimneys draft better than smaller
6. Too much draft sucks heat out and up - not good
7. Chimneys within the building envelope draft are most
trouble free

POKING THE FIRE
1. Unless you are looking for something, why do it?
2. Opening the fire box door introduces excess cold air
which cools the firebox down
3. Grandpa's old saying about lifting the grill hood:
"When you're lookin', it's not cookin'"

Aye,
Marty
Grandma used to say, "I agree."

 

[wowser]

thanks everyone. Tonight I let the fire go down to a nice bed of coals and stuck a medium sized split in there, and that thing went thermonuclear. The fire was so bright and the coals were glowing white. It must have been a really dry piece. I'm going to get a bundle of wood at the grocery store and see what happens. Might be the wood that's the problem. Gee, that seems to be a recurring theme here.

 

[rwhite]

I have a new insert and am learning...

Do you have thermometer on the stovetop? Even if they are sometimes innaccurate they provide a good measure of when to damper the stove. I damper mine to 1/2 at about 350 and to a 1/4 to full (depending on the wood) at 4-450.

Most times my logs get down to coal chunks in 1 to 1.5 hours.

That's way to quick. I can get at least 4 hours from pine. There is to much air going in there. And your heat is just going out the stack.

And what's most important is the burn; a hot bed of coals and bright flame instead of a smoldering one?

Not exactly. I shoot for a lazy flame and good coaling once I get up to temps. I let the chimney tell me whether I can go to 1/4 or full closed. As long as it's not smoking keep shutting air further down for a longer burn. In a few weeks you will be able to just look at the flame and know if your smoking outside without going out to check.

 

[Martin Strand III]

HOW TO BUILD A FIRE 101

1. Begin with dry wood.*
2. Light the wood.
3. Enjoy the fire.

* Always do this first and watch your
fire building problems disappear.

Aye,
Marty
Grandma used to say, "Work smarter, not harder."