Old Temco rating

[some guy]

Greetings every one and all.
In the coming days we will be installing a masonry wood burning fireplace into our existing house. Been doing lots of research. The slab design will support a masonry fire box, smoke chamber, damper etc. But not a full height masonry chimney. So we will be transitioning with an anchor plate to a rated metal chimney. Currently the sheet metal fire box that is in the house has a gas log, but looks to maybe be wood capable. No matter, it is getting the boot anyhow.

Question is what do we have as chimney pipe? It is Temco (OOB) and I cant find any info on the UL listings numbers. See pic:



Further confusing the issue is the chimney inner and outer sizes and combustible clearance. The inner liner is 8" steel, the outer is 12" steel. Thats a 2" air space. Current rated chimneys only have 1" best I can tell. And on the label clearance to combustibles is 1" min.

Our local code requires a chimney for an oped solid fuel combustion chamber to be UL103 listed. The UL numbers on the existing chimney don't seen to relate to anything.

Can anyone shed any light on the info given in the picture? And what is it that we actually have?

 

[begreen]

I thought that pipe was air cooled but could be wrong. Is there a middle liner? If so I don't think this pipe is UL 103-HT rated.

 

[some guy]

No middle/3rd wall. And no insulation either. Just double wall with 2" air space.

Code requires UL-103. (No mention of UL-103HT if there is a difference). For medium heat appliances it says UL-959. I can't find any reference anywhere to UL Issue # 262, 687 to know what that is.

 

[begreen]

UL 103 requires it to test at 2100F. Aircooled pipes are typically rated at 1700F. I would plan on replacing it with good class A chimney pipe.

Have to ask, why a new masonry fireplace? They are notoriously inefficient. Is this just for holiday and some weekend fire?

 

[some guy]

UL 103 requires it to test at 2100F. Aircooled pipes are typically rated at 1700F. I would plan on replacing it with good class A chimney pipe.

Have to ask, why a new masonry fireplace? They are notoriously inefficient. Is this just for holiday and some weekend fire?

Yeah, we live in Texas. Only time it gets cool enough to have a fire is mid-winter.

COnfused on the class A. I see air cooled class A such as dura vent. Listed as UL-103.

 

[begreen]

DuraPlus is DuraVent's value line. It has an inner insulation jacket and an outer air jacket. This adds 4" to the O.D.. DuraTemp is their professional line and has a single better quality insulation jacket that adds 2".

We have several folks in North Texas with stoves. When it gets cold there is can get very cold and the wind never seems to stop. Have you considered installing a good quality zero clearance EPA fireplace instead? It can still have a masonry front, but behind the masonry veneer would be a good heater that could be ducted to more evenly heat the house.

 

[some guy]

Probly will only use the fireplace during family holiday gatherings and an occasional night with the wifey. LOL... VERY OCCASIONALLY.

Any reason not to use DuraChimneyII ? Seems like it is what would work at lowest price.
Also considering lining the stud enclosure all the way to the chimney cap flashing with 5/8 type X Gyp Board just because. Easy to do and inexpensive .

 

[begreen]

You may be surprised. With a good fireplace that also works well as a heater some start burning it a lot more for heat. Given the cost of masonry I would install a good quality ZC EPA fireplace. It will go in quicker, probably cost less, and there will be no weight concerns. You can put a stone or brick veneer on it so that most folks would think it is a full masonry fireplace. I'd at least get some comparison quotes.

Here are a some ZC fireplace links to look at:
http://www.heatnglo.com/Products/North-Star-Wood-Fireplace.aspx
http://www.kozyheat.com/mobile/product/z42
http://www.pacificenergy.net/products/wood/fireplaces/fp30/

Not sure what DuraChimneyII is. Can you provide a link or part number?

 

[some guy]

http://www.duravent.com/Product.aspx?hProduct=4

 

[begreen]

I have never used it but it looks like it's made for the job. Give Duravent support a call if there are any technical questions. They are pretty helpful.