Some of you may remember my saga with our Oslo. I purchased it used last year and have always felt it was "sluggish" i.e. the hottest I've ever gotten the stove top corner thermometers was about 550-575, and that was with a roaring fire and a nearly full load of KD hardwood scraps from a cabinet maker friend.
Last year, we had the stove in our Yurt. I had 16' of exterior 6" class A pipe topped with 4' of 6" single wall (hoping that the extended height would improve draw/heat), and then another 4' or single wall inside for a total of nearly 24' of pipe, though we did have 2 90's in that run. It worked ok, but I was always somewhat disappointed in it's performance.
This year I moved the stove into a cabin on our property. Now I have 5' of single wall inside, and 16' of class A outside in a straight run from stove top to cap. While the performance is improved, it's still "sluggish" IMHO. For example, while I get a nice burn out of the secondaries, others here talk about increased stove-top temps after the secondaries kick in, and that never happens with our stove. At best we can maintain the existing temps as we damp down the primary air and usually we drop 50-100 degrees once the secondaries are engaged......A standard burn for us is a 3/4 to full firebox with 2-3 year seasoned wood and about 400-500 temp reading in the corners of the stove top while maintaining about 300-400 on the stove pipe surface thermometer. One thing for sure is that is seems we'll never have to worry about this stove running away from us, but still it would be nice to crank it up to 600-700 if we really needed to and I just don't ever see that happening for this stove......
For the record, burning verified well seasoned wood, and I've checked all the air passages on the Oslo for any blockages (with a snake light and a piece of stiff wire fed through all the air channels) so we're still perplexed as to why our Oslo burning experience seems so different from others......any suggestions?
NP
Last year, we had the stove in our Yurt. I had 16' of exterior 6" class A pipe topped with 4' of 6" single wall (hoping that the extended height would improve draw/heat), and then another 4' or single wall inside for a total of nearly 24' of pipe, though we did have 2 90's in that run. It worked ok, but I was always somewhat disappointed in it's performance.
This year I moved the stove into a cabin on our property. Now I have 5' of single wall inside, and 16' of class A outside in a straight run from stove top to cap. While the performance is improved, it's still "sluggish" IMHO. For example, while I get a nice burn out of the secondaries, others here talk about increased stove-top temps after the secondaries kick in, and that never happens with our stove. At best we can maintain the existing temps as we damp down the primary air and usually we drop 50-100 degrees once the secondaries are engaged......A standard burn for us is a 3/4 to full firebox with 2-3 year seasoned wood and about 400-500 temp reading in the corners of the stove top while maintaining about 300-400 on the stove pipe surface thermometer. One thing for sure is that is seems we'll never have to worry about this stove running away from us, but still it would be nice to crank it up to 600-700 if we really needed to and I just don't ever see that happening for this stove......
For the record, burning verified well seasoned wood, and I've checked all the air passages on the Oslo for any blockages (with a snake light and a piece of stiff wire fed through all the air channels) so we're still perplexed as to why our Oslo burning experience seems so different from others......any suggestions?
NP