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Oslo Continues To Disappoint.....

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Nonprophet, Nov 26, 2010.

  1. cycloxer

    cycloxer New Member

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    I think you are trying to damp down the stove too much. Keep your air control open more and I bet you get your 600°F cruising temps. FYI, Jotul rates their stoves for a nominal heat output at approx. 40% air open. Optimal temp for most efficient burn is 400-600°F measured at the stove top surface. You should adjust your primary air to keep the stove in that range. Every installation will require a different primary air setting.

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  2. Nonprophet

    Nonprophet Minister of Fire

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    I've already removed the doghouse cover, checked the primary air control lever and plate, and I've pushed a length of heavy gauge steel while through all of the air passages to check for obstructions--all clear and working properly.

    NP
  3. HotCoals

    HotCoals Minister of Fire

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    You prolly need a 'MAGIC HEAT" box. j/k
  4. Nonprophet

    Nonprophet Minister of Fire

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    Hi BeGreen,

    Again, just to clarify--we no longer have any 90's in our run, now it's a straight shot of 20+ feet of pipe.....


    NP
  5. oldspark

    oldspark Guest

    It was a joke, and you think my panties are up in a wad, I dont get it. One thing I always like about this site was the lack of spelling Natzis. (joke alert)
  6. fjord

    fjord New Member

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    N.H.
    Final try:

    The secondary air and inlet is in the back of the Oslo. Open and unobstructed ?

    Have you checked that the FG bat over the burn tubes is in place, not blocking the exhaust ?

    I'm going to check the panties drawer now.
  7. grommal

    grommal Feeling the Heat

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    Good suggestions. There HAS to be something very specific wrong with this particular stove, if the wood is indeed dry. I don't even need to leave a door cracked open on my Oslo to get a great startup, so the stove design is not the issue.
  8. BotetourtSteve

    BotetourtSteve Member

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    Western Virginia
    Dude, are you staying warm?... Stovetop temps are overrrated and overstated - we men tend to do that kinda thing. I hear about all these uber stovetop temps and I say very good - my Big 6 very rarely shows a stovetop temp reading much above 450, and most of the time around 375, but it sure as hell is warm and sure as hell keeps my house warm. I dunno, maybe my thermo is off, or maybe there are some grossly overexagerrated temps - either way, if you're warm, you're warm!
  9. fjord

    fjord New Member

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    Hey Dude, Dude:

    Stovetop temps are what most wood stove users use to monitor the stove Dude. Not "we men", we stove users that use the stove for heat Dude. Dude.

    What's this "dude" thing anyway ? We ain't at some ranch.....yet.....dude. This some secret Kumbaya bonding term of endearment .....dude ?

    And remember, dude, you're way down south in Dixie ( careful, we're gonna burst into song....) where there ain't no need for warm when you're warm.......dude. We're way north of the M-D Line.
    Hey, there's snow, ice, there's temps that average---you hear AVERAGE-- in the 20's for a couple of months. And, BTW, dude, we have used about a cord already from what it is out to what we need to keep warm inside.
    Just returned from the wood fired hot tub. Outside temp = 29.7 F, and it ain't December. Slid on my a$$ 'cause the deck was icy. Does that make me a dude dude.

    Now the truth dude: what's your oil/gas furnace thermostat set at ?

    This dude is dismissed.....maybe even to be dissed by all the dudefiles here. Love it Dude.

    Dude out.
  10. Nonprophet

    Nonprophet Minister of Fire

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    Yes and yes.


    NP
  11. Nonprophet

    Nonprophet Minister of Fire

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    Well, that's been my feeling too--that something is wrong. When other people with the same stove and similar setups are shutting the primary air down 80-90% and still getting 600 degree stove top temps and raging secondaries and I can't close ours down more than 50% or so without the fire faltering, you'd have to think that something is wrong with this stove--I just can't figure out what the problem is!!

    NP
  12. Nonprophet

    Nonprophet Minister of Fire

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    Our lowest temps have been about 25 so far this season and we're able to keep the cabin at about 72 or so. However, we do get temps in the teens during the winter AND our cabin is only about 700 sq ft and the Oslo is rated to heat a much larger space than that.....My concern is that when we do get the really cold snaps that the Oslo won't keep us warm enough, and when I've got about 3x's the stove I need for the space I'm using and it won't keep us warm enough, that's a problem in my book.


    NP
  13. jotulguy

    jotulguy Feeling the Heat

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    Ok so let me get this right.... you can get stove temps of over 500 degrees? Are you getting burn times of over 7 hours? How much wood are you putting in the stove and how long is your wood cut? does it totally fill the firebox?
  14. BrowningBAR

    BrowningBAR Minister of Fire

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    I have NOT been keeping up with the thread, but something is really wrong if the Oslo is having a problem with heating that space.
  15. Nonprophet

    Nonprophet Minister of Fire

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    Yes. Once we were able to get it up to about 575. That was with the primary air full open and a full load of kild dried hardwood. We were trying to see the maximum possible temp we could get. Good bed of coals, put in the KD hardwood, cracked the side door, let the fire rage in the box, flu temps up near to 650 or so. Closed the door, left primary air wide open for 30 mins. RAGING fire inside. Max stovetop temp: 575.

    With a full load, after 7 hours we will have enough coals to rake together to get another fire going, stovetop is warm to the touch but not hot.

    We have a mixture of wood averaging 18" or so. I'd say we fill it up to about 3/4 of a load when we want long burn times and maximum heat--I could squeeze in a few pieces to fill some gaps. but I want air to circulate. We usually burn a N-S top down fire to get the fire going, then go E-W with the larger re-loads through the side door. Our Oslo seems to do best with at least a 2/3 load. We've tried building smaller fires and the performance is mediocre.


    NP
  16. Nonprophet

    Nonprophet Minister of Fire

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    To be fair, it is an older rustic cabin with so-so weatherization. Still, my fear was that the Oslo would just cook us out of here being such a small space, and that's just not happening.


    NP
  17. Green Energy

    Green Energy Feeling the Heat

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    If you have 20' of straight flue pipe (that is sealed, no leaks) going up and you have dry wood, MC< 20%, after 30 minutes of a strong fire, you should be able to close your primary air down to 10% or less, and have strong secondaries. Something is definitely wrong if you can not shut your primary air below 50%. With dry wood, I can normally run my Oslo with the primary air control shut off completely as the secondaries get stronger with the primary air control off, once the fire is established (with the primary closed, all the draft, i.e., negative pressure, is pulling more air through the secondary burn tubes).
  18. Hanko

    Hanko Minister of Fire

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    dress em up. put em in a cadilac with power steering and automatic transmission. Im sure there are folks here who will give you a fair amount of your money back.
  19. Todd

    Todd Minister of Fire

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    Could there be something wrong with the baffle? Out of wack or gap in back maybe causing all the heat to go up the stack instead of staying in the stove?
  20. sullystull

    sullystull Feeling the Heat

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    Now that's an attitude you don't see 'round here too often!
  21. Ticmxman

    Ticmxman Member

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    +1 & Thank goodness for that!
  22. BotetourtSteve

    BotetourtSteve Member

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    Not sure whether to laugh or shoot the cyber finger...hard to get a read on that New England humor sometimes...;-)
    I've been a stove user for most of my life, so no lectures really needed there - yes, the stovetop thermo is a tool, but quite frankly I could do without it and still have a feel for things - when it's hot, it's hot, when it's cool, it's cool, when it needs wood, it needs wood. And yes, your latitude (or is that attitude) does lend itself to colder average temps than way down south here in the Blue Ridge mountains of Virginia, but the last time i checked 20's F is still 20's F no matter where you live - we were as cold as 3 below last winter and had over 45 inches of snow, so not exactly sippin' sweet tea on the veranda at the plantation. My thermostat is set on 60 - between gas logs and propane furnace, I average 50-75 gallons a month usage during the winter months (Oct-Mar). During that same timeframe, I will burn 5-6 cords.

    May I suggest a Netflix renting of "The Big Lebowski" for your viewing pleasure on one of those cold New England nights?
  23. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    The acerbic 'wit' of downeast is often not the most helpful.
  24. gizmos

    gizmos Member

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  25. Nonprophet

    Nonprophet Minister of Fire

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    Thanks for the suggestion, but I've already modified my doghouse cover by drilling a few extra holes into to allow more air to enter the firebox--which I believe would be the equivalent of a EUR plate.

    I think I may have solved the problem--I was able to get 650+ degree stove top temps last night (on a cold start!!) even though it was only 40 or so outside. I want to have another fire tonight to verify that the problem is indeed solved, and then I'll post my findings here.


    NP

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