It looks like the best place for a thermometer might be on the face above the left or right door corner.
Over firing and corrugated flex liner
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Yes the auber thermometers are what we use typically they have a screw on sensor a probe and a magnetic one for inserts we usually use the screw on one but if you want stove top measurements you could use the magnetic one and slide it into the opening so you got an actual stove top measurement. I prefer pipe temps over stove top temps personally but either will work fine for your stove. Or do what bg said with a simple magnetic thermometer. The benefit of the auber is it has an alarm you can set for an over fire.
Squisher
Minister of Fire
I'm super impressed with my auberin unit. I have the screw on ring thermocouple attached to single wall pipe and I find it fast acting and accurate. This will be my second season with it. The best part for me is having the remote monitoring option, so I can read my basement flue temps from upstairs. I'll have to check on the alarm function. I think I have it jacked way up high so it won't ever really come on. I remember it coming on when I first got it and yah. It works. If I remember correctly I think my wife told me if she heard that noise again she was going to throw them out.
Squisher
Minister of Fire
We get them up as high as we can 18" is optimal but we usually can only get about a foot. If it is lower it will just mean that your temps will be a little higher
Squisher
Minister of Fire
no because we use heavy wall light wall it could be an issue.
Ok I'm new at this stuff but I'm going to look into that thermometer you guys mentioned above for the stove pipe. And see if I can figure out setting it up. I really like the idea of monitoring my liners temperature. I also like the idea of monitoring the stove top but that's easy to get a magnetic thermometer which I'm planning on doing.
But why can't you screw through a single wall liner ? It's got screws in it attaching it to the appliance adapter which look ok. So why would it be different for the thermometer ?
It shouldn't it should be attached with a band clamp or with rivets backed up with washers. If you have light wall I would screw the sensor to the adapter.
Well mines got screws holding it in place. I didn't install it myself I assumed it was ok. Should I be concerned ? Got a few cords burned through it no problems at all. Here's a picture after pulling the face plate all looked good to me ? No damage from the over fire and screws look to be ok
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Well it is not right. But it will probably be fine I would just pull the face plate every couple years and make sure those screws are still tight. If they start to feel loose I would then get the correct adapter and switch them out.
Yes everything looks fine as expected. But I am glad you checked now you have that piece of mind
That liner doesn't even look like been very hot yet. Typically that close to the stove it's discolored.
Screws don't bother me as much with an insert, since the liner is sitting on the stove it's not likely to move, on most anyway.
Otherwise I don't like to see screws used.
Bholler and Webby thanks for all your input. It's very helpful and I've learned a lot about the do's and don't's on this stuff from this website.
I can understand why screws are not ideal. I have no idea why the installer used them? I also thought that adapter should fit more flush with the stove but that's as far down as it goes. I hate to create more work for myself so since you guys think screws are ok for now I'll leave it as is.
Also good to know that you think the liner looks like it's not been that hot. I thought I cooked it the other night but I guess my perception on a real hot fire is not accurate.
On that note, not having a thermometer yet, do you guys feel one can guage safe operating temperature by the flames ? I've just assumed if I have a rather "slow" flame and slow or lazy secondary combustion that I'm burning in the correct temperature zone. If flames go out then too cold. If flames are roaring and blowing like in a windstorm then too hot. But a lazy flame about perfect. Is this good thinking ? Especially without a thermometer ?
I can understand why screws are not ideal. I have no idea why the installer used them? I also thought that adapter should fit more flush with the stove but that's as far down as it goes. I hate to create more work for myself so since you guys think screws are ok for now I'll leave it as is.
Also good to know that you think the liner looks like it's not been that hot. I thought I cooked it the other night but I guess my perception on a real hot fire is not accurate.
On that note, not having a thermometer yet, do you guys feel one can guage safe operating temperature by the flames ? I've just assumed if I have a rather "slow" flame and slow or lazy secondary combustion that I'm burning in the correct temperature zone. If flames go out then too cold. If flames are roaring and blowing like in a windstorm then too hot. But a lazy flame about perfect. Is this good thinking ? Especially without a thermometer ?
Every stove flue collar is different. Often the appliance adaptor/elbow needs trimmed to fit the stove, so it fits flush.
Most new stove owners don't really know what hot is. That's kinda why I figured you weren't all that hot. No offense.
Every stove flue collar is different. Often the appliance adaptor/elbow needs trimmed to fit the stove, so it fits flush.
Most new stove owners don't really know what hot is. That's kinda why I figured you weren't all that hot. No offense.
No offense taken. I'm glad you were right in that I didn't overheat my stove and liner. And I'm thankful for this website lots of great info here.
So your saying the adapter should probably have been trimmed down a bit ? I don't see or smell any signs that smoke is getting out so I'm thinking although it looks odd that the wider portion of the adapter is not flush to the stove, the connection must be ok.
It's probably ok. I just like things a certain way, no gap is my goal.
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