pacific energy stove question new here

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tim1

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Hello, I currently am using a pappa bear wood stove which works well. My house is a 1927 rectangle 1200sq.foot with a downstairs of 350 sq.ft at the other end of where the stove is. I use the duct with fan by the stove picking heat off the ceiling as well as a doorway triangle fan to move air. I live in Columbia River Gorge in Oregon with lots of east cold wind. Good insulation and storm windows. The idea of saving 25% wood with a newer stove has me looking at stoves. Been to all dealer showrooms and like the insides of the pacific energy. Now for your help,please,I am thinking super 27 for size to run at near full throttle for secondary burn to work properly. I would prefer the summit for the larger firebox and the 3/8th plate on top, however, the extended burn technology has me thinking with no way to regulate this, it would run me right out of the house. If it would work on low to medium well, it would help when the snow is deep with 50mph winds pushing on the house. If any of you kind folks have a summit and could advise me, I would be grateful. Thanks in advance. Tim
 
Oh, I burn wood 24/7 and is my primary heat source. I burn 2 year old seasoned doug fir only. I do like the idea of the bigger firebox of the summitt with the same footprint of the super 27. Tim
 
Are you dead set on a PE? If I lived in your neck of the woods, I'd be looking real hard at a Blaze King Princess or Chinook for your size house. Is your basement insulated?
 
Summit insert here. You can control the burn on the Summit, either with large splits or smaller loads.
You may be ok with the 27. Just keep in mind, running a smaller stove balls to the wall 24/7 and pushing it beyond its capability may be less than pleasant an experience. And if at the coldest temps, the stove is maxed out and not cutting it, that won't make for a happy time.
 
I have look at all the secondary fire systems and do dot want the tubes! The pe has a decent stainless box in there and no tubes! No sheetmetal to warp and burn out. 3/8" steel top plate is good. That how I am basing my decision. I haven't looked at the chinook,though, Will do. Thanks for you reply. Tim
 
Hey inferno, if you load the stove for the evening, set the control on say medium, will the ebt keep the fire blazing till it gets to coals, or will it throttle it gently thru the burn on medium. Trying to understand the extended burn. Thanks Tim
 
tim1 said:
Hey inferno, if you load the stove for the evening, set the control on say medium, will the ebt keep the fire blazing till it gets to coals, or will it throttle it gently thru the burn on medium. Trying to understand the extended burn. Thanks Tim

First off, there has been many discussions on EBT. I suggest, forget about the EBT.
Its in there yes, does it truly do much. I simply do not know.
You do not need secondary going the entire time from load to coals.

With my set up at least, whatever the size load, I get it going good at full air, then if I think about it, I set the air to about 50% maybe slightly less, let it burn another 5 or ten minutes, then the air is all the way down.
Each set up has different characteristics. Having 27' of liner, I must cut it all the way down or it will go nuclear.
If I don't need as much heat, I cut the air back sooner at a lower temp, and load less fuel.
The only time mine is set at medium is towards the end of the burn if I want to burn down the coals faster, or at the beginning when I am cutting it back from full to get the stove up to temp.
I personally never run long at any setting other than all the way low, again with the exception of burning coals down.

I will get secondaries from full flamage to when I start cutting air back, then all the way to low. May get them for 20 mins, or for a few hours.
Secondaries IMO are merely the volatile gases burning off. Once they are gone I may have glowing splits, or glowing with some lazy flames. Sometimes glowing with a flare of lazy flames from time to time.
As long as what is coming out of the stack is clear, and the temp rises and levels off, its all a good burn.
Still getting my burns to optimal. Each year into the 6th season it gets better, and I get more knowledgeable of what the stove can do and can't do.
IMO, you can't have secondaries all the way to coal stage. Once the nasties burn off, the secondaries are gone. This does not mean it is not heating, or not burning properly once they are gone.
All the baffle does is slow down the path of the exhaust gases, keeping more heat in the stove to be distributed to the home, rather than straight up the flue. And, they also burn off the nasties that would also normally go up the stack as 1/2r unburnt gases/smoke.

I originally thought extended burn added and reduced air to the burn to extend the burn and regulate the burn. From what others have experimented with, the EBT does not kick in until very high temps.
All I know, is I load the insert, throttle the air to eventually all the way low, walk away and enjoy the heat for 8-14 hrs or so depending on the weather & temp outside. I out of curiosity do check the thermo once in a while. Usually at the starting stage and secondary stage. After the gasses burn off, it steadies out and just cruises along, fairly steady for several hours, then slowly declines in temp. 8 hours later, I load again, and repeat.
On milder days, it is one load at nigh before bed, usually requiring relight, sometimes there are coals to get it going again, at 24 hours later, usually not. Last few weeks was 2x a day. At Bed and mid day. Just to hold temps inside and keep coals for the next evening load. At 20's even low 30's here nowhere now, I just load 3x a day every 8 hrs. on schedule near same times each day.
When I go on the road, I can load about an hour before leaving, come home 8 or 10 hours later, and reload.

At 2666sf, I am glad I chose this size. Wide open floor plan works wonder also, with a nicely located ceiling fan and 3 story cathedral ceiling and open loft with steps on the other end of the house. Nice convection loop.
At single digits ot below with wind chills, I sometimes wish I had an even larger stove. I will be installing the NC30 sooner or later. And with 2 large fireboxes, I will prolly be wearing nothing all winter. Not sure how the addition will work with the main house in circulating the additional heat.

Sorry got to rambling.
Bottom line... Whatever size you think you need, you need the next size larger. Bigger can be loaded less, yet packed for those colder than a witches Teet nights. Smaller can be packed so much, and that is all your getting. If it falls short, your F'd.

Don't base you decision on EBT, Its more hype than anything. And most stoves have their own version of that BS.
Decide based on size and heating needs, and house set up! If it is in a secluded room, it any stove will cook you, and it won't get around the house as well. This can be bettered with placement of ceiling fans, box fans etc.
Remember, these are "space" heaters, some of us just got lucky with the floor plan we have. To truly heat a whole house with one stove, is a very lucky and fortunate thing.

Research, and research more, keep asking any questions you have, and do NOT rush in!
There are several posts each year with owners wishing they had gone larger, and spent the cash and are not getting the heat they expected. I see more complaining of too small a stove and missing the needs, than I do of those withing they had a smaller stove.

Sorry for the rambling.
 
Thank you for the rambling, it explained a lot to me knowing your procedure. Now i have the pappa bear fisher and have a chance to buy a near new grandpappa bear stove. My thought being to install a stainless steel secondary burner like the epa with a tube up the back wall. But everyone told me that stove is only 25% efficient and not to waste my time, just go buy a epa stove. I really like my fisher, but cutting 30% less wood has me making this move. You convinced me of my need, I thought super series woud be marginal,so will keep my eye open for a summit. A fella just call me with a super series for 300.00. May work and save me a grand for more wood. Hate to chance it being big enough. Better go look at it, as these do not last long. Tim
 
tim1 said:
Thank you for the rambling, it explained a lot to me knowing your procedure. Now i have the pappa bear fisher and have a chance to buy a near new grandpappa bear stove. My thought being to install a stainless steel secondary burner like the epa with a tube up the back wall. But everyone told me that stove is only 25% efficient and not to waste my time, just go buy a epa stove. I really like my fisher, but cutting 30% less wood has me making this move. You convinced me of my need, I thought super series woud be marginal,so will keep my eye open for a summit. A fella just call me with a super series for 300.00. May work and save me a grand for more wood. Hate to chance it being big enough. Better go look at it, as these do not last long. Tim

You can always buy the Super, and try it. If it Don't work out, depending on the condition. You could easily resell if it don't work out. Maybe for more than $300.00.
BTW, beautiful area your in. Was just down along the Columbia there last month.
 
300 dollars for that is a great buy it even if you dont use it, unless its a pile of molten metal its worth way more than that.
 
Guy sold it before I got there. Wasn't meant to be. There is a summit out there waiting for me. Patience and toss pappa bear another log! Tim
 
Those old Fishers were good stoves, but you will be amazed at how much more heat you get from a new EPA certified stove, and how much less wood it takes to get that heat.

From the numbers you quote, your house is almost exactly the same size as mine. My Englander 30 is a bit big for the space I have, but one thing I will never have to worry about is whether or not t can keep up in sub-zero temps and lots of wind. You can always build a smaller fire in a bigger stove, but the opposite isn't necessarily true. If there is any doubt on what size stove you need, always err to the bigger side (in my opinion, at least!).

From what I've read on here, the PE's are good stoves. Too bad you didn't get to that one in time. Keep on the look out, the deals are out there still, even at this time of year. Just be ready to move quickly when you find one!

-SF
 
I heat about the same sq ft as you but my house was built in the 1840's and we are in southern Ontario Canada. I use a plain black super 27 and the house never gets below 70 degrees. 78-80 is more common temperature and the stove runs 24/7. Haven't seen any sign of overheating and absolutly not reason to need a summit. The summit would really only work in febuary and create creosote the rest of the season. As for the EBT on the summit it is now no more as of last month, the new summits are very simular to the super 27 in airflow design.
 
Hi Tim,
Hogwildz gave some good info and has run stove a long time.. Seems to me a Super 27 would easily heat your home as it's only 1200 sq. ft. Hogs place is much larger so a Summit is the right choice.. Too bad you missed out on the $300.00 Super 27 that sounded like a great deal..

Good luck!

Ray
 
skinanbones said:
I heat about the same sq ft as you but my house was built in the 1840's and we are in southern Ontario Canada. I use a plain black super 27 and the house never gets below 70 degrees. 78-80 is more common temperature and the stove runs 24/7. Haven't seen any sign of overheating and absolutly not reason to need a summit. The summit would really only work in febuary and create creosote the rest of the season. As for the EBT on the summit it is now no more as of last month, the new summits are very simular to the super 27 in airflow design.

That is misinformation.
I can burn 3 splits in my Summit during the shoulder season months. Not cook the house, and at cleaning next fall, have about a mason jar worth of fine brownish powder.
Having a larger stove does not mean you cannot have smaller loads, create the heat you need, yet not over heat the house. Nor create a lot of creosote.

Yet, when the time comes for full loads, it is there to use.
If you definitely do not need the extra capacity, sure go for the next size down. But I still say go a size larger than you think you need.
When it is not keeping up in the dead of winter, it is too late to change your mind for most folks.

Every set up and home's needs is different. There is not set guidelines. What works in one place, may not work in another.

Not sure where your getting your information on the EBT, but the PE site is revamped, and still shows EBT in the specs.
Not that I am a EBT die hard. I just load, burn and heat. EBT or no EBT. She does the job.

My advise to anyone is do lots of research, make a list of your wants & needs, and really look at the house design and layout, then make the best informed decision you can make.
Been said enough times, not many wishing they purchased a smaller stove, lots wishing the had bought a larger one.
Of course, I also advise taking all info including from me and anyone else with a grain of salt, as we are all offering advice based on our home layout, set up, and experiences.
 
i have a PE Summit in my basement that i use as the primary source when it gets cold. i have a jotul f3cb upstairs that i use during the shoulder seasons and to supliment the Summit if it gets REAL COLD. I have a single story ranch with a full finished basement that have about 1400 sq feet on each floor. The summit is a good stove and like Hog said, you can burn smaller loads if you want to but being downstairs and trying to heat the whole house will probably take higher temps harder burns and a couple of days for the heat to work itself through the house. once it does, it takes awhile to cool down too and you can burn at a lower threshold. Probably the biggest factor, in my opinion, in keeping the downsatirs at a tolerable temperature and to assist in moving the air to the upstairs is a BLOWER on the stove. I had a DW Large CAT that didn't have a fan and used box fans and corner fans to move the air and it sometimes sweltered down there. The Summit with the fan made it comfortable downstairs keeping it around 80 degrees while maintaining the upstairs at around 70-75 depending on the time of day and ability to feed it.

That said, i'm seriously considering the BK Princess because I'm away for over 12 hours a day and i really like the idea of setting the thermostat and it taking care of its self for most of the day. The Summit burns about 10 hours real good but for me its not quite enough. Check out the BK line.

cass
 
tim1 said:
I have look at all the secondary fire systems and do dot want the tubes! The pe has a decent stainless box in there and no tubes! No sheetmetal to warp and burn out. 3/8" steel top plate is good. That how I am basing my decision. I haven't looked at the chinook,though, Will do. Thanks for you reply. Tim

The stainless steel baffle rather than tubes was a big plus for me. I could see myself trying to jam a piece of wood into a stove with tubes and damaging one. I had a problem with knocking the baffle loose on my Super 27 last winter but that was because I didn't have it sitting on top of the rails along the sides of the stove. When I bought my stove, the display model didn't have the bricks, rails or baffle installed. When I bought my second Super 27, the dealer had one set up with everything installed correctly. I also like the the PE stoves do not require expensive, shaped firebricks.
 
Found a summit used and will like the bigger firebox. Thanks to all. Gonna change some b ricks and gaskets and a new stand. Tim
 
tim1 said:
Found a summit used and will like the bigger firebox. Thanks to all. Gonna change some b ricks and gaskets and a new stand. Tim

Be sure you get the light pumice firebricks and not the old heavy hard kind.

I have a new PE Summit pedestal after burning in a Model 37 Riteway for the past 33 years. That stove burned well but it was difficult to handle in very cold temps or in wind, especially with the 7 inch flue diameter.

My new Summit really puts out the heat, and the 2ndary burn starts as soon as the stove gets even a little heated up. I burn wood tha is seasoned for about 6 months and it does great. I don't know where I could find wood that was seasoned for 2 years, or if I orderd that far ahead where I could store 12-15 cords of wood waiting to be burned, or where I could save the $4000 it would take to buy the fuel and then wait using propane.

Just burn the stove hot, and make sure that the wood is charred all around before you turn it back. Start it up with some small spit pieces and some fatwood, put around in a log cabin and then with some larger kindling in a teepee formation.

If its in the 20's I can keep the whole 3000 sq feet warm with the stove and that's with an excessive number of windows.
 
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