Pacific Energy T6

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Scrat

New Member
Jan 29, 2010
13
Western NY
Ok After much shopping and reading on this forum I think have decided on the Pacific Energy Alderlea T6, but I do have a couple of questions for anyone who owns one of these stoves. How thick are the walls on the steel box that holds the firebrick? any problems with burn thru? Does the stainless steel baffle need cleaning? if so how do you do that and where is the EBT? thanks
Oops forgot, how about the blower, the literature says it is temperature actuated how does that work?
 
its either 1/4" or 3/16" steel sides (I forget exactly, but I think 1/4")... the baffle does not require any internal cleaning, just removal once a yr to get the fly ash of it.
you can run the fan on a constant "manual" setting or on an auto setting, where a heat activated snap disc opens and closes based on the stove's temp.
 
The steel box on the PE stoves has 1/4" sides and a 5/16" top. I've never heard of one burning out, doubt I ever will. These are heavy-duty stoves. The blower has a thermal sensor at the back of the stove. As Summit noted, it runs in automatic or manual mode Unless it's running full speed the blower is quite quiet. Even at full speed one can have a normal conversation standing next to the stove. The EBT is located on the bottom front of the stove, next to the air damper. Simple, low maintenance is one of the key features of these stoves. When the stove and flue are being swept, one pulls a pin that holds the baffle in place, then the entire baffle assembly box pulls out. Sweep the flue, dust off the baffle, put in a new gasket and put the baffle back in.
 
Good choice - we had a couple trials with the stove, but it was entirely operator issues; the stove is excellent and I would recommend it. Depending on the house it's going into, the blower may make a night and day difference (like my house), or not (BG's house). We like it for the quality, the company is excellent, and now that we've gotten our house insulated and better sealed, and the blower installed we keep 900 sq ft at any temp we want on only a log or two. It burns very well at lower temps for smaller spaces or shoulder season. Price was great, and the looks are top-notch. It really does heat very gently our couch is about 5' from the stove and we're fine watching TV without getting too hot.
 
On the EBT - do a quick search there's a ton of research and opinion out there.
 
moosetrek said:
Good choice - we had a couple trials with the stove, but it was entirely operator issues; the stove is excellent and I would recommend it. Depending on the house it's going into, the blower may make a night and day difference (like my house), or not (BG's house). We like it for the quality, the company is excellent, and now that we've gotten our house insulated and better sealed, and the blower installed we keep 900 sq ft at any temp we want on only a log or two. It burns very well at lower temps for smaller spaces or shoulder season. Price was great, and the looks are top-notch. It really does heat very gently our couch is about 5' from the stove and we're fine watching TV without getting too hot.

you are doing it off of a log or to now??? wow what a difference when you get familiar with the stove! that is awesome!...
how would you compare it to the nc 30?
 
We are - I attribute it primarily to the blower, also to adding insulation and milder temps (hasn't been under the teens at night here for a couple weeks, days in the high 40s). We'll really see how the blower works when we hit -20 plus 40mph sustained winds, but the forecast is disappointingly looking like more mild temps for the next week.

The 30 is serious heat at a cheap price; good quality and very simple to operate. Perfect for a huge room, a cabin, or an open house. But as a steel stove you really feel the heat next to it, and it's a hard stove to "just keep warm with" during milder temps. BrotherBart's setup with part of the stove in a fireplace is probably the best way, although side heat shields might help moderate it a bit. Think of it as a Ford Mustang - lots of power, gets the job done, and not a lot of frills.

By contrast, the T6 takes longer to warm up, and often doesn't give that hot woodstove feel next to it. The cast plates really do a good job moderating the intensity of the heat, which is what we wanted for the house layout we have. There are times when I still miss the blasting heat, but usually for about a minute after coming in from outdoors, and roasting all evening for a 2-minute "stove high" doesn't seem worth it... It also stays warmer longer, enough that it's noticeable when I get up in the AM. Overall, while it has taken us a bit to get used to the new stove, I think that the T6 does it's job well in an unassuming way, more like a Caddy - smoothly and before you know it you're cruising at 80.

All depends on what you want, the T6 is a beautiful stove and realistically the difference in price over 10+ years is negligible compared to saws, wood, reduced oil bill, comfort, and all the other economies of wood burning. We considered the Quad 5700, and the Jotul F600 as well; the quad 5700 seemed too much like an Englander with side shields for about 3X the cost, and the Jotul is a radiant stove, and way too much stove for our house (though I'll never repeat that blasphenous statement). The Mansfield was also in the running, but is a lot more $ (not a deciding factor for us, as mentioned) and the PE stoves seemed to have an excellent rep, be well built and simple to maintain (steel stove, with cast shell meant no cast firebox to worry about), and still offer a milder way of heating our home.
 
moosetrek said:
We are - I attribute it primarily to the blower, also to adding insulation and milder temps (hasn't been under the teens at night here for a couple weeks, days in the high 40s). We'll really see how the blower works when we hit -20 plus 40mph sustained winds, but the forecast is disappointingly looking like more mild temps for the next week.

The 30 is serious heat at a cheap price; good quality and very simple to operate. Perfect for a huge room, a cabin, or an open house. But as a steel stove you really feel the heat next to it, and it's a hard stove to "just keep warm with" during milder temps. BrotherBart's setup with part of the stove in a fireplace is probably the best way, although side heat shields might help moderate it a bit. Think of it as a Ford Mustang - lots of power, gets the job done, and not a lot of frills.

By contrast, the T6 takes longer to warm up, and often doesn't give that hot woodstove feel next to it. The cast plates really do a good job moderating the intensity of the heat, which is what we wanted for the house layout we have. There are times when I still miss the blasting heat, but usually for about a minute after coming in from outdoors, and roasting all evening for a 2-minute "stove high" doesn't seem worth it... It also stays warmer longer, enough that it's noticeable when I get up in the AM. Overall, while it has taken us a bit to get used to the new stove, I think that the T6 does it's job well in an unassuming way, more like a Caddy - smoothly and before you know it you're cruising at 80.

All depends on what you want, the T6 is a beautiful stove and realistically the difference in price over 10+ years is negligible compared to saws, wood, reduced oil bill, comfort, and all the other economies of wood burning. We considered the Quad 5700, and the Jotul F600 as well; the quad 5700 seemed too much like an Englander with side shields for about 3X the cost, and the Jotul is a radiant stove, and way too much stove for our house (though I'll never repeat that blasphenous statement). The Mansfield was also in the running, but is a lot more $ (not a deciding factor for us, as mentioned) and the PE stoves seemed to have an excellent rep, be well built and simple to maintain (steel stove, with cast shell meant no cast firebox to worry about), and still offer a milder way of heating our home.

Well stated, if you like to have the sunburn type heat, you will only get it from the t6 by looking into the glass. Otherwise, the stove is great for having furniture etc within close proximity of the stove, and not be sweating. Yet can put out quite a bit of hot air.
 
Alternatively, you can ask several of us long-winded members over and we will put out a similar amount of hot air. But we might object if you try stuffing us with wood and lighting.
 
We especially like the easy of use. By that I mean this stove is easy to start and you do not have to stand around waiting for some point in time where you have to close a damper etc. If we have a good bed of coals we just put in the necessary wood to maintain the temps and set the air its reliable. I am running without the ebt though as that seemed to make the stove take off to much when we loaded for overnight. I just covered the ebt hole. I am of the opinion that ebt is to pass EPA and does not help on regular burning of course we only burn pine here. Been getting consistent 10 hour burns.
 
moosetrek said:
Good choice - we had a couple trials with the stove, but it was entirely operator issues; the stove is excellent and I would recommend it. Depending on the house it's going into, the blower may make a night and day difference (like my house), or not (BG's house). We like it for the quality, the company is excellent, and now that we've gotten our house insulated and better sealed, and the blower installed we keep 900 sq ft at any temp we want on only a log or two. It burns very well at lower temps for smaller spaces or shoulder season. Price was great, and the looks are top-notch. It really does heat very gently our couch is about 5' from the stove and we're fine watching TV without getting too hot.

:) Thanks to everyone who helped me in my quest for a new wood stove. I just ordered the PE T6 and am picking up on Thursday. Can't wait to fire that baby up. Anyways, I did extensive research both on this forum and in person at stores. For the size of my house (2500sqft open plan) you couldn't find a better stove. Lifetime warranty on the parts that get the most heat/wear and tear. The baffle comes out, with one pin and if anyone frets like I do about where does all the creosote when you clean the pipe at the stove like I do then this is your answer. Again Thanks for all the help.

Will keep you updated once installed and if I need help (hee hee). God Bless.
 
baker,

I hope you have at least 3-4 friends and a dolly, as moving the stove is really difficult. you can remove the baffle, firebricks and some of the cast iron to lighten the load.

I would also suggest, since you are about the same climate as myself, plan on adding the fan (ie electric outlet install if necessary before positioning the stove), it will help when it is below 20 degrees. When it is 25-50 outside, the stove can heat our home (~3300 SQ FT vaulted ceilings ) with the fan. Less than ~ 25, it needs some help. 35 - 50, no fan necessary.
 
BeGreen said:
The steel box on the PE stoves has 1/4" sides and a 5/16" top. I've never heard of one burning out, doubt I ever will. These are heavy-duty stoves. The blower has a thermal sensor at the back of the stove. As Summit noted, it runs in automatic or manual mode Unless it's running full speed the blower is quite quiet. Even at full speed one can have a normal conversation standing next to the stove. The EBT is located on the bottom front of the stove, next to the air damper. Simple, low maintenance is one of the key features of these stoves. When the stove and flue are being swept, one pulls a pin that holds the baffle in place, then the entire baffle assembly box pulls out. Sweep the flue, dust off the baffle, put in a new gasket and put the baffle back in.

What gasket? Where is it located? Should I keep one in stock? Husband cleans chimney every couple of months - remember I am anal/ocd.
 
madison said:
baker,

I hope you have at least 3-4 friends and a dolly, as moving the stove is really difficult. you can remove the baffle, firebricks and some of the cast iron to lighten the load.

I would also suggest, since you are about the same climate as myself, plan on adding the fan (ie electric outlet install if necessary before positioning the stove), it will help when it is below 20 degrees. When it is 25-50 outside, the stove can heat our home (~3300 SQ FT vaulted ceilings ) with the fan. Less than ~ 25, it needs some help. 35 - 50, no fan necessary.

Thanks, just added to my order the fan. Good Idea. Does the fan count on the Gov Rebate, just curious
 
Have to ask the dealer regarding the rebate, I would assume yes. My opinion, no facts.

Gasket: It is between the secondary baffle and stove. It is white, and rectangular. Either have some spares, or make one. search "summit baffle gasket" and you will find out how, at least three different homemade versions. Or purchase the OEM gasket, which do not last.

Have the husband cover the secondary air channel when cleaning the stovepipe. Search again for this.
 
Congratulations. Hope you have lots of nice dry wood on hand.

Get a package of gaskets, they are cheap. Or make your own. I have found I get a bit better seal with two gaskets rather than one.
 
Congrats and I think you'll enjoy it. We unloaded ours with me, my wife's uncle, and my wife helping, but we used as much brains as we could muster rather than brawn. Got it on a couple pieces of wood and used 3" wood fenceposts chopped into 3' pieces for rollers, just kept moving one from the back to the front as it rolled. Took a little bit but the fencepost wood didn't damage the floor, gave it a couple inches of height so it rolled right up to the hearth, and they were about $3. 2X12s from the pickup truck to the porch (about even height). If they deliver it, they may have a furniture mover that will put it in your house - our dealer wanted $250+ just to deliver the thing and put it in the house (15 miles from the store). Post back your experience and questions, and have fun!
 
I am considering the T6 and was going to build a raised hearth to put it on but looking at page 8 of the manual, I am assuming the distance listed by the asterisk is the minimum distance from the top of the stove to the ceiling? If so, I guess it won't be a very tall hearth.
 
wendall,

Correct, the * is for ceiling clearance. Our hearth (pics in signature link) is up ~ 6-8" in a 8' ceiling room, which left a few inches to spare. With the trivets open, and the fan on, the ceiling does get a little warm, the walls, hearth etc, get warm, but not hot.

T4 - 56 3/4” (1441 mm)
T5 - 55 1/4” (1403 mm)
T6 - 56 1/2” (1409 mm)
 
Yes, minimum 7 ft ceiling and 56.5" above the stove top.
 
moosetrek said:
Congrats and I think you'll enjoy it. We unloaded ours with me, my wife's uncle, and my wife helping, but we used as much brains as we could muster rather than brawn. Got it on a couple pieces of wood and used 3" wood fenceposts chopped into 3' pieces for rollers, just kept moving one from the back to the front as it rolled. Took a little bit but the fencepost wood didn't damage the floor, gave it a couple inches of height so it rolled right up to the hearth, and they were about $3. 2X12s from the pickup truck to the porch (about even height). If they deliver it, they may have a furniture mover that will put it in your house - our dealer wanted $250+ just to deliver the thing and put it in the house (15 miles from the store). Post back your experience and questions, and have fun!

Ok we picked ours up tuesday. I have a couple of questions before install. First looking at the information provided it states that ours was Manufactured 11/3/2008, why would that be and has anything changed on the stove since 11/2008? Second there is 4 bolts in the sealed package that has the owners manual in it - what are they for? Can't find anything in OM to tell me. Third there was information stating that is a can of Stove Paint included, well we did not get ours(no big deal) can anyone tell me what the color or lot number for the paint would be? Fourth since it will be just my husband and I installing this can we remove sides(to lighten load) easily? Fifth the metal piece that holds the baffle inplace was not in when we unloaded off truck, should we concerned about damage to baffle or should it be ok and how would I tell if there is damage? Thanks for all the help.
 
Baker said:
moosetrek said:
Congrats and I think you'll enjoy it. We unloaded ours with me, my wife's uncle, and my wife helping, but we used as much brains as we could muster rather than brawn. Got it on a couple pieces of wood and used 3" wood fenceposts chopped into 3' pieces for rollers, just kept moving one from the back to the front as it rolled. Took a little bit but the fencepost wood didn't damage the floor, gave it a couple inches of height so it rolled right up to the hearth, and they were about $3. 2X12s from the pickup truck to the porch (about even height). If they deliver it, they may have a furniture mover that will put it in your house - our dealer wanted $250+ just to deliver the thing and put it in the house (15 miles from the store). Post back your experience and questions, and have fun!

Ok we picked ours up tuesday. I have a couple of questions before install. First looking at the information provided it states that ours was Manufactured 11/3/2008, why would that be and has anything changed on the stove since 11/2008? Second there is 4 bolts in the sealed package that has the owners manual in it - what are they for? Can't find anything in OM to tell me. Third there was information stating that is a can of Stove Paint included, well we did not get ours(no big deal) can anyone tell me what the color or lot number for the paint would be? Fourth since it will be just my husband and I installing this can we remove sides(to lighten load) easily? Fifth the metal piece that holds the baffle inplace was not in when we unloaded off truck, should we concerned about damage to baffle or should it be ok and how would I tell if there is damage? Thanks for all the help.

1. Can't help you, I'd expect they're all the same.
2. The bolts are for the legs - I assume to secure them to the floor for a mobile home application, or for leveling? Mine are still lying around the house somewhere - never needed them.
3. Didn't see paint in ours either, but ours hasn't gotten anything that needs painting yet.
4. Anything you can do to lighten it will help; however... even lightened it's a really heavy stove. Is there a way you can just roll it around and leave everything intact? We could move it OK with two of us even assembled and kept it on the pallet, it was easier that way. Lifting it was out of the question, and we had no stairs to worry about just a couple steps and the hearth; what are you having to move it from/to?
 
1. Date could be important with regards to welding issues uncovered by Sisu, Hog and their summits.

2. There should be at least adjustable feet that thread into the legs on the stove, and I would fathom a guess like moose that they could be for bolting the stove down, pictures would help us ID them. Hopefully they are not bolts for the door. Post a picture.

3. Paint, Stove Brite Metallic Black #6303, you will need it the following yr, esp if you spill any water on the stove. Be careful with kettles! Or keep them off the stove.

4. The piece for securing the baffle is a metal "pin", I would call the dealer, and have them get one, along with the paint, and figure out what the bolts are for.... You should have the baffle secured so it does not get dislodged accidently with loading wood.

Make sure to post some pictures once it is aflame.
 
The bolts may be for bolting to the floor as required for mobile home installation?

I would definitely not try to move this stove with two persons. Get some help or hire a couple strong boys from the local football team for an hour. That will be a lot less expensive than an injury or hernia operation.

We slid the stove down strong planks off the pickup bed. Then I used a heavy duty handtruck with pneumatic (air) tires. The stove was then ratchet-strapped securely to the handtruck in a couple places so that it acted as one unit. That made rolling it into place fairly easy. But do be careful, this is a very heavy stove.
 
moosetrek said:
Baker said:
moosetrek said:
Congrats and I think you'll enjoy it. We unloaded ours with me, my wife's uncle, and my wife helping, but we used as much brains as we could muster rather than brawn. Got it on a couple pieces of wood and used 3" wood fenceposts chopped into 3' pieces for rollers, just kept moving one from the back to the front as it rolled. Took a little bit but the fencepost wood didn't damage the floor, gave it a couple inches of height so it rolled right up to the hearth, and they were about $3. 2X12s from the pickup truck to the porch (about even height). If they deliver it, they may have a furniture mover that will put it in your house - our dealer wanted $250+ just to deliver the thing and put it in the house (15 miles from the store). Post back your experience and questions, and have fun!

Ok we picked ours up tuesday. I have a couple of questions before install. First looking at the information provided it states that ours was Manufactured 11/3/2008, why would that be and has anything changed on the stove since 11/2008? Second there is 4 bolts in the sealed package that has the owners manual in it - what are they for? Can't find anything in OM to tell me. Third there was information stating that is a can of Stove Paint included, well we did not get ours(no big deal) can anyone tell me what the color or lot number for the paint would be? Fourth since it will be just my husband and I installing this can we remove sides(to lighten load) easily? Fifth the metal piece that holds the baffle inplace was not in when we unloaded off truck, should we concerned about damage to baffle or should it be ok and how would I tell if there is damage? Thanks for all the help.

1. Can't help you, I'd expect they're all the same.
2. The bolts are for the legs - I assume to secure them to the floor for a mobile home application, or for leveling? Mine are still lying around the house somewhere - never needed them.
3. Didn't see paint in ours either, but ours hasn't gotten anything that needs painting yet.
4. Anything you can do to lighten it will help; however... even lightened it's a really heavy stove. Is there a way you can just roll it around and leave everything intact? We could move it OK with two of us even assembled and kept it on the pallet, it was easier that way. Lifting it was out of the question, and we had no stairs to worry about just a couple steps and the hearth; what are you having to move it from/to?

Thanks Moosetrek, Madison and BeGreen. Moosetrek - yes we have it on a platform that has wheels. But how did you get it off the pallet? ours is flat to hearth. Madison - found the pin in firebox under fire brick(loose with stretch film) it must have fallen out and got wedged. I will post pics once installed. There was a weld problem? that year or not sure?
 
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