Pacific Northwest Wood Burners

[Sprinter]

and am trying to stock up some more on Alder

Nothing wrong with alder. Although I'm in Fir country, alder is what is most available around here for firewood, so I reluctantly bought a few cords to get started with last year. But I've grown to like it for it's fast drying, easy splitting and handling. It's btu content is not the highest, but it's reasonably good, burns nicely and it's not pitchy like fir is. I still like fir, though. Oak is too expensive here. Maple is good too, but my small supply of maple (big leaf) is taking forever to dry.

 

[NW Walker]

I'm becoming more of an Alder fan all the time as well. It sure is easy to process and handle, and it reproduces unbelievably quickly. I'm quite sure I can count on never needing to go off property for fire wood by using coppice techniques on the BL Maple and harvesting it and the naturally reproducing Alder in rotation. I need to look up some numbers, but I think the alders on my property are doing 10' a year or some such.

Edited to add: I did just look it up, I was exaggerating a bit. 30' tall @ 5 years. As a landowner I appreciate that it's a nitrogen fixer as well. A useful pioneer species for sure.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/usda/amwood/215alder.pdf

 

[Sprinter]

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/usda/amwood/215alder.pdf

From that link :

The species is an aggressive pioneer on avalanche paths, road cuts, log landings, skid trails, and other areas where mineral soil has been freshly exposed. Clearcutting and large group selection are the most reasonable regeneration systems.

And that's why it is so ubiquitous around here. The clearcutting. What used to be huge fir growths have become huge alder growths. I guess that's progress. But at least the alder makes good firewood...

 

[NW Walker]

And that's why it is so ubiquitous around here. The clearcutting. What used to be huge fir growths have become huge alder growths. I guess that's progress. But at least the alder makes good firewood...

Oh man, I back up to DNR land, on a hillside that goes up to around 2000'. Every morning for the last month I wake up to the fellers and the talky tooter, and go have my coffee on the lawn watching and listening to the operation. I can walk up the little access road in the evening and watch the chokers setting and tooting as the logs go up the hill. The rigging is something to see, giant firs with cables strung 1000' up the hill. Anyway, sorry for the drift, but yeah, lots of alder headed my way in the coming years for sure.

 

[Sprinter]

Oh man, I back up to DNR land, on a hillside that goes up to around 2000'. Every morning for the last month I wake up to the fellers and the talky tooter, and go have my coffee on the lawn watching and listening to the operation. I can walk up the little access road in the evening and watch the chokers setting and tooting as the logs go up the hill. The rigging is something to see, giant firs with cables strung 1000' up the hill. Anyway, sorry for the drift, but yeah, lots of alder headed my way in the coming years for sure.

Like it or not, you can't do anything about it. May as well look at the bright side

 

[Seanm]

Lodgepole pine is different. Very little pitch, decent burn times, quite controllable. It also dies and drys standing, making it perfect same year wood. No need to season.

Yup and the ash is minimal. I use it for my day burns and then switch to Larch for over night. I don't have the room to go three years ahead and its not needed in soft wood land. Like you said if its dead standing you can burn it with under 20% mc that year. Ive bucked up Lodgepole pines in the bush in the middle of winter and had it ready to go!

 

[Highbeam]

I burn mostly junk wood like willow, alder, cottonwood, etc. Burn what falls down naturally first. I own a woodlot, 30 years since clearcut, with low areas and trees in those areas don't live more than 30 years.

With that low btu wood I easily get 24 hour burn cycles in the BK loaded full nomatter what the wood type.

The next four years of wood are now stacked. I removed a pile of trees from my house lot and that included many big doug firs and a whole grove of overgrown leyland cypress which is like a juniper/cedar thing.

My favorite NW wood is red alder. Easy to split, thin bark, no slivers, high btu, fast growing and straight stacking. The ash is important since it hides the coals and allows a longer burn. With dough fir, the lack of ash means shorter burn times (but higher heat) in my experience.

 

[Highbeam]

Cedar is nice for aroma and starts but wa won't let us take it from the forest.

Who told you this? Cedar is taken from the forest all the time. Where do you think the cedar fences and decks come from?

 

[Sprinter]

My favorite NW wood is red alder. Easy to split, thin bark, no slivers, high btu, fast growing and straight stacking. The ash is important since it hides the coals and allows a longer burn. With dough fir, the lack of ash means shorter burn times (but higher heat) in my experience.

I'll be able to test that for myself this next season and see which I like overall. I'll have about half and half dry fir and alder. One thing I've noticed is that large Doug fir has such thick bark, that I'm thinking that can really detract from the btu/cord figures because the bark can take up a lot of space. Most of mine is from young xmas tree trunks from the tree farm across from me, so the bark is very thin, but the rounds are still a nice size. I think it's going to make nice fuel.

 

[Lumber-Jack]

I'm a Lodgepole Pine fan too. I like it because the beetle kill stuff is plentiful around here and very dry. As others have said, you don't need to season it, if you choose the right trees to cut. It splits pretty easy, no big branches, so no big knots. Also there is virtually no pitch, if you select trees that are dry.
On the other hand, Douglas fir, which is pretty plentiful around here as well, never seems to be as dry as the lodgepole pine, even if it's been dead standing for much longer. Douglas fir also has lots of big branches and can be a real pain to split by hand. But the thing I hate the worst about DF is the pitch! It seems to ooze pitch forever, even if it's a few years old and you bring some in the house and let it sit by the warm stove it will start oozing. It oozes and drips on the floor and the next thing you know you're walking around the house with some sticky stuff sticking to your socks and leaving sticky spots on the floor in every room. I stopped cutting the stuff because of that. Lodgepole pine seems to burn just as well as DF, but without the pitch.

 

[Sprinter]

I'm a Lodgepole Pine fan too

Wow, I guess so! Nice stacks...

. It oozes and drips on the floor and the next thing you know you're walking around the house with some sticky stuff sticking to your socks and leaving sticky spots on the floor in every room

 

[privatejoker75]

I'm a Lodgepole Pine fan too. I like it because the beetle kill stuff is plentiful around here and very dry. As others have said, you don't need to season it, if you choose the right trees to cut. It splits pretty easy, no big branches, so no big knots. Also there is virtually no pitch, if you select trees that are dry.
On the other hand, Douglas fir, which is pretty plentiful around here as well, never seems to be as dry as the lodgepole pine, even if it's been dead standing for much longer. Douglas fir also has lots of big branches and can be a real pain to split by hand. But the thing I hate the worst about DF is the pitch! It seems to ooze pitch forever, even if it's a few years old and you bring some in the house and let it sit by the warm stove it will start oozing. It oozes and drips on the floor and the next thing you know you're walking around the house with some sticky stuff sticking to your socks and leaving sticky spots on the floor in every room. I stopped cutting the stuff because of that. Lodgepole pine seems to burn just as well as DF, but without the pitch.

 

[StihlHead]

Who told you this? Cedar is taken from the forest all the time. Where do you think the cedar fences and decks come from?

Collecting cedar for firewood (or for other reasons) here in Oregon is a not allowed in many places, like BLM and several state forest areas. Several reasons, depending on the area. Around Coos Bay in Southern Oregon there is a big problem with Port Orford cedar root disease and they to not want you cutting/collecting/transporting it or spreading it around. They also close a lot of roads down there in winter months to keep people from spreading it around on their tires. In all the BLM firewood cutting areas I have been to they have it posted that they do not allow any cedar cutting or collecting of any type. In several state forests that I have gotten firewood permits for in Oregon they do not allow any cedar wood product collecting, as it is listed a special forest product by Oregon state law (and requires a specific/separate permit).

Cutting trees and harvesting cedar logs is a different story and red cedar logs command a good price up and down the west coast. Incense and Port Orford cedar is also commonly logged here. Logging is done by permit though. Oregon logging limits do not apply on BLM land, and so you see massive moonscape clearcuts on a lot of BLM land in Southern Oregon that cannot be done on that scale anyplace else in the state.

 

[MrWhoopee]

One thing I've noticed is that large Doug fir has such thick bark, that I'm thinking that can really detract from the btu/cord figures because the bark can take up a lot of space.

I had quite a large pile of Doug fir bark accumulating this year, so I decided to try burning it in my chiminea. I noticed that it left a REALLY HOT bed of coals. Now I use it exclusively for barbeques. I had to adapt to the high heat, it's much hotter than briquettes, which I don't have to buy anymore. Try it, you'll like it.
I don't think the bark detracts from the btu/cord, and it leaves very little ash.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

What is the type of wood you guys here in the Pacific Northwest use in your stoves, and what kind of burn times you get with your woodstoves?

I burn free wood. This year my free wood was 100% bigleaf maple. About 7 cord (of which I will burn 3-4). Last year my free wood was mostly alder. The year before was mostly Doug Fir. The year before that was 50/50 hemlock/Doug Fir. Ad nauseum. Ad infinitum

"Burn time" is an elusive, elastic and ultimately irrelevant term. I can bank my PE Spectrum Classic and 12 hours later scrape enough coals together to kick off a fresh pile.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I'll be able to test that for myself this next season and see which I like overall. I'll have about half and half dry fir and alder. One thing I've noticed is that large Doug fir has such thick bark, that I'm thinking that can really detract from the btu/cord figures because the bark can take up a lot of space. Most of mine is from young xmas tree trunks from the tree farm across from me, so the bark is very thin, but the rounds are still a nice size. I think it's going to make nice fuel.

The bark burns good, very good. And hot.

 

[Highbeam]

. In all the BLM firewood cutting areas I have been to they have it posted that they do not allow any cedar cutting or collecting of any type. In several state forests that I have gotten firewood permits for in Oregon they do not allow any cedar wood product collecting, as it is listed a special forest product by Oregon state law (and requires a specific/separate permit).

Thanks for taking the time. It sounds like an owner thing and not a cedar thing. Our western red cedar tends to grow in wetter areas so when the big wind storms blow through they can be toppled. I am not about to let that wood go to waste so I have hauled many cords of red cedar home for firewood from my personal wood lot.

If you get the chance, in a modern stove, western red cedar burns about as well as the red alder or doug fir. Easy to split, no slivers, no pitch, thin bark, and that nice smell. I don't notice the sparking in the firewood like you do in the branchwood.

A lot of the traditions and wive's tales about the best wood will be changing as more people learn from experiences burning modern non-cat and cat stoves. I never would have dreamed that our low btu cottonwood would be such a good fuel source after listening to the stories of gopher wood. Cottonwood is actually a good wood if you don't mind hauling all the extra water weight when it is green.

 

[Highbeam]

The bark burns good, very good. And hot.

If the bark is dry and once it gets going, that thick doug fir bark is really hot burning. Made for a really nice bonfire when I burnt the splitter trash.

 

[MrWhoopee]

A lot of the traditions and wive's tales about the best wood will be changing as more people learn from experiences burning modern non-cat and cat stoves. I never would have dreamed that our low btu cottonwood would be such a good fuel source after listening to the stories of gopher wood. Cottonwood is actually a good wood if you don't mind hauling all the extra water weight when it is green.

+1

I have found the same to be true of white fir (Abies concolor). Many people speak disrespectfully of it, but I have found that it provides nice, long burn times. I think many of the traditional tales are based on experiences with the old stoves, which were not truly air-tight. Being able to fully control the air makes all the difference.

 

[bogydave]

Birch & spruce.
I try to get mostly birch.
Shed now is now full of 100% birch , & I have 1.5 cords of spruce not under cover by the fire pit.

 

[StihlHead]

Thanks for taking the time. It sounds like an owner thing and not a cedar thing. Our western red cedar tends to grow in wetter areas so when the big wind storms blow through they can be toppled. I am not about to let that wood go to waste so I have hauled many cords of red cedar home for firewood from my personal wood lot.

If you get the chance, in a modern stove, western red cedar burns about as well as the red alder or doug fir. Easy to split, no slivers, no pitch, thin bark, and that nice smell. I don't notice the sparking in the firewood like you do in the branchwood.

A lot of the traditions and wive's tales about the best wood will be changing as more people learn from experiences burning modern non-cat and cat stoves. I never would have dreamed that our low btu cottonwood would be such a good fuel source after listening to the stories of gopher wood. Cottonwood is actually a good wood if you don't mind hauling all the extra water weight when it is green.

Cedar firewood collecting is restricted or limited on BLM and Oregon state land, and in some national forest areas, but not for private landowners or for logging. I have about a cord of western red cedar my racks this year that I got back in April. We will see how it burns. I also have a cord+ of cypress that is a little heavier that I got in February. As for black cottonwood, there is a lot of that around here and I have burned a lot of that, but it stinks when burned (literally, smells like cat pee) no matter how dry it is. I burned the last of it this spring and I am not going to get any more of it. You can get all the black cottonwood that you want for free in the Portland and Seattle areas on CL. No thanks.

 

[StihlHead]

IOne thing I've noticed is that large Doug fir has such thick bark, that I'm thinking that can really detract from the btu/cord figures because the bark can take up a lot of space.

I used to sluff off the bark from Doug fir before burning it, but then I read several firewood fuel heating studies that show that the bark has about the same BTUs as the wood does. So I have been burning the logs and splits with the bark on them for the last 6 years or so. Good heat...

 

[StihlHead]

I had quite a large pile of Doug fir bark accumulating this year, so I decided to try burning it in my chiminea. I noticed that it left a REALLY HOT bed of coals. Now I use it exclusively for barbeques. I had to adapt to the high heat, it's much hotter than briquettes, which I don't have to buy anymore. Try it, you'll like it.
I don't think the bark detracts from the btu/cord, and it leaves very little ash.

True about the bark, and DF has low ash (which is why is makes superior high grade pellets).

I do not use any conifer species for BBQ, as they tend to create soot and can add toxins to the food. Seriously. For pellet and wood smokers you only want to use hardwoods. For coal grilling it is not such a big issue, as the wood gasses and soot will all be cooked off by the time they are coals. Though I have found that DF does not coal up that much, as compared to hardwoods.

I use alder, cherry, maple, pecan and apple for smoking, BBQ and for all my grilling. A 50:50 mix of alder and apple is my all around favorite for smoking with in my Traeger.

 

[Sprinter]

...but then I read several firewood fuel heating studies that show that the bark has about the same BTUs as the wood does. So I have been burning the logs and splits with the bark on them for the last 6 years or so. Good heat...

Surprising, but good to know.

Good point about using the right and wrong woods for smoking. The local Natives are famous for their alder smoked salmon. Mmm.

 

[firecracker_77]

I'm a Lodgepole Pine fan too. I like it because the beetle kill stuff is plentiful around here and very dry. As others have said, you don't need to season it, if you choose the right trees to cut. It splits pretty easy, no big branches, so no big knots. Also there is virtually no pitch, if you select trees that are dry.
On the other hand, Douglas fir, which is pretty plentiful around here as well, never seems to be as dry as the lodgepole pine, even if it's been dead standing for much longer. Douglas fir also has lots of big branches and can be a real pain to split by hand. But the thing I hate the worst about DF is the pitch! It seems to ooze pitch forever, even if it's a few years old and you bring some in the house and let it sit by the warm stove it will start oozing. It oozes and drips on the floor and the next thing you know you're walking around the house with some sticky stuff sticking to your socks and leaving sticky spots on the floor in every room. I stopped cutting the stuff because of that. Lodgepole pine seems to burn just as well as DF, but without the pitch.

Yours is my favorite woodshed.