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PE pacific door new gasket install

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by i3bpvh, Nov 2, 2010.

  1. i3bpvh

    i3bpvh Member

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    Is there a way to adjust the door on the hinge side?? Did the dollar test and it slips through in the space between the hinges. This is only it's second season so I wouldn't think the gasket is bad already... or is it? Any advice is much appreciated.

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  2. 69911e

    69911e Member

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    I don't have a suggestion other than don't bother contacting PE. Hope your local dealer can assist. They are the worst company I have ever dealt with on the Summit insert I just bought.......
  3. westkywood

    westkywood Feeling the Heat

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    I havent had to talk to PE,( I have the Super 27 ) but I got my stove from "The Chimney Sweep" and they have been one of the best business's I've ever dealt with. There are people on here that can give you good answers to your question.
    I had to adjust my door on my stove this year but I did it from the handle end of the door.
  4. 10-cc

    10-cc Member

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    I had adjusted my Summit using shim on the hinges but my summit is 12 years old. Also I taped with a hammer on the hinges. The best thing and the easiest will be to change the gasket for a thicker one.

    Hop it help.
  5. thechimneysweep

    thechimneysweep Minister of Fire

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    i3, don't try to adjust the hinge pins: they've gotta remain perfectly plum and aligned, or the door won't mount. Get a new gasket kit from your dealer.
    raybonz likes this.
  6. i3bpvh

    i3bpvh Member

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    Thanks sweep, I was hoping you might be lurking around and see my post. I knew enough not to mess with the pins, but thought there might be some way. Thanks again.
  7. i3bpvh

    i3bpvh Member

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    ok, went and picked up a new door gasket, but just wondering if anyone had any tips/tricks/techniques to get the best fit. like how to get the ends to line up the best. The dealer said to wrap tape around the ends and then cut them to leave a clean end then butt them together. But I seem to remember someone posting here that starting in the corner is easier. thanks.
  8. thechimneysweep

    thechimneysweep Minister of Fire

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    Lift the door off the hinge pins and lay it on a table with the handle off the edge so it'll lay flat.
    Clean out all the old glue with a screwdriver and a wire brush if necessary.
    Wipe out the channel with rubbing alcohol on a rag and let dry.
    Lay down a nice zig-zag bead of gasket cement all the way around the channel.
    Peeling the paper strip off the gasket as you go, lay it into the cement peeled-side down.
    Start laying the new gasket all the way at the bottom of the hinge-side channel, so the end touches the bottom of the channel, and run up the hinge side, across the top, down the hasp side and across the bottom, until you run into the side of the gasket at the starting end.
    Cut the gasket a little long, and squish it into the side of the starting end and the cement at the same time, so you get a tight seam.
    Hang and close the door immediately, and leave it closed at room temperature overnight.

    Here's a tip from our gasket guru, Howard "Sweet Child" Lopeman: the reason your factory gasket lost its seal so quickly might be that the factory machine stretches the gasket a tad as it comes off the roll, making it a bit thin when it hits the channel. Make sure the new gasket is relaxed as you install it, not stretched out, paying special attention as you turn the corners, so it lays in as plump as can be. You'll get a better door seal longer.
  9. snowtime

    snowtime Minister of Fire

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    I have a different stove but I found the door was adjustable using the door handle. It has many shims to locate it properly. When I got my stove the door was adjusted improperly with the shims on the inside which kept the door from closing properly. After inspecting it I took the handle off and moved the shims to the outside of the door. Worked great and the door fits great. I recommend buying a door handle kit. You will probably need a handle some day but the real benefit is it comes with a boat load of shims in all sizes to make the door fit properly.
  10. i3bpvh

    i3bpvh Member

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    snowtime- I can adjust the handle side of the door, it's the hinge side of the door that isn't sealing well enough. so new gasket it is.
  11. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

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    Tom, could you be a little more specific? :lol:
    begreen likes this.
  12. thechimneysweep

    thechimneysweep Minister of Fire

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    Sorry. For removal of the old glue, use a Sears Craftsman L-16 Standard with a plastic handle and de-magnetized tip.
    raybonz and begreen like this.
  13. Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle

    Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle Minister of Fire

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    This needs to be preserved some where. Like "my documents" :coolsmile:
  14. i3bpvh

    i3bpvh Member

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    thanks for the help Tom.
  15. Ddubs77

    Ddubs77 Member

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    Nov 1, 2010
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    Loc:
    Bristol, CT
    I just bought a Breckwell P32 insert and I replaced the old gasket with a new 5/8" kit. But mine also does not seal tight on the door hinge side. I can see the gap and the glass gets very smokey in a few hours. I though the 5/8" kit was the correct kit? Did I do something wrong? When I picked up the stove the door shut nice and snug but now the door feels like it shuts way to easy and doesnt pull snug. What the FFFFFFFFF?!?
  16. Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle

    Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle Minister of Fire

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    Resurrecting this thread, because it's timely, and I need to replace my gasket.

    Already have it, courtesy of Tom :)
  17. Mr. Kelly

    Mr. Kelly Member

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    Northern Worcester County, MA
    Hey all... does anybody have a recommendation for a particular type/brand of gasket cement for my PE Summit? My gasket has sprung, and since it's still in pretty good shape, I'm hoping just a bit of gasket cement will take care of it.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks a bunch!
  18. Hogwildz

    Hogwildz Minister of Fire

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    I use silicone caulk here. Never had a problem. The gasket cement in the tube, just didn't work for me, and the gasket fell off mid way into a fire. Not saying no on has not had luck with the cement, I prefer silicone myself.
  19. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

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    Most of the manufacturers are using silicone these days. It is good to 800 degrees and the door frame doesn't get that hot.
  20. tim1

    tim1 Member

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    When I installed my door gasket, I bought the rope off a bulk spool at the dealer and a tube of glue. I called P.E. to get the start stop point. They said to start and stop mid point on the hinge side. Also use tape to make a clean cut and install flat with rope relaxed. So far,great! Tim
    STICK likes this.
  21. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Well, today was to be the day for replacing the T6 door gasket. I have a fresh tube of RTV and new graphite gasket. The old one pulled right out, there wasn't even any cement in one area. But...on the second season with the stove I had noted the loose gasket and put some RTV behind the gasket in about a 6" long area at the top of the door. Fast forward to today and 3 seasons of burning. The RTV had hardened to epoxy-like density. I spent the best part of an hour hammering and chiseling out the solid mass with a screwdriver and small hammer. At one point I thought I was going to have to go an buy a Dremel tool. As it was I had to use brute force on some sections. To say the least this was anxiety provoking. One slip would be capable of cracking the glass. I finally got the worst out and sanded down the rest. Now, the new tube of RTV is going back and I will be using Rutland black gasket cement instead. I prefer the Meeco clear liquid, but this has to be done with the door on the stove and the Meeco is too runny for vertical application.

    Has anyone else removed a gasket glued on with RTV after a few seasons of steady burning? It's been too long for me to remember what I used but I think I had some Permatex blue RTV at the time?
  22. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Got some black Meeco stove cement and put the Perkins gasket in. Even this Meeco cement is a little runny for my taste. At first the gasket popped out at top when closing the door. (changing a gasket with the door on the stove is a pita.) But I got my wife to assist me and with 4 hands holding the gasket in place at the top until the door could close we got the job done. I used a sheet of wax paper between the stove door and the stove body to prevent any stray adhesive from sticking. That also worked out well Looks like we are all ready for the heating season.

    IMG_1686web.jpg
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2013
  23. bag of hammers

    bag of hammers Minister of Fire

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    Just did that with my 2200. 4th year burning -may noy count here as this is primarily weekend burning. The old red silicone was fairly easy to scrape out -there wasn't a ton of it in there. New gasket kit included red high temp silicone which i applied following SBI instructions Wish I had thought of taping the ends tbefore cutting as was suggested in this thread. Wel'll see how it holds up but so far so good. I dunno ibut it could have been a lot harder if I was steady burning for that time.
  24. madison

    madison Minister of Fire

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    Regarding the adhesive:
    The PE adhesive popped right out, gasket had loose sections after first season. Original repairs on the loose sections sections with Rutland clear, lasted only weeks. During gasket replacement, the PE OEM and residual Rutland clear were removed too easily.

    Last yr or the yr before... New gasket (Tractor Supply 3/8" rutland graphite impregnated) with Rutland BLACK has held up well, no loose sections. Removed door to do the job. Hardest part was getting the Rultand Black out of the tube, second hardest was remounting the door by myself. Second pair of hands would have made it easy.
  25. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Our gasket seems to be doing well. The Meeco adhesive is strong, but a little runny, even after carefully kneading the tube to mix well. With the door laid flat it would have been a piece of cake. Looking back I should have had a roll of masking tape to use strips about every 12" and at the corners to temporarily hold the gasket down while proceeding around the perimeter.

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