PE pacific door new gasket install

Is there a way to adjust the door on the hinge side?? Did the dollar test and it slips through in the space between the hinges. This is only it's second season so I wouldn't think the gasket is bad already... or is it? Any advice is much appreciated.

I don't have a suggestion other than don't bother contacting PE. Hope your local dealer can assist. They are the worst company I have ever dealt with on the Summit insert I just bought.......

I havent had to talk to PE,( I have the Super 27 ) but I got my stove from "The Chimney Sweep" and they have been one of the best business's I've ever dealt with. There are people on here that can give you good answers to your question.
I had to adjust my door on my stove this year but I did it from the handle end of the door.

I had adjusted my Summit using shim on the hinges but my summit is 12 years old. Also I taped with a hammer on the hinges. The best thing and the easiest will be to change the gasket for a thicker one.

Hop it help.

i3, don't try to adjust the hinge pins: they've gotta remain perfectly plum and aligned, or the door won't mount. Get a new gasket kit from your dealer.

Thanks sweep, I was hoping you might be lurking around and see my post. I knew enough not to mess with the pins, but thought there might be some way. Thanks again.

ok, went and picked up a new door gasket, but just wondering if anyone had any tips/tricks/techniques to get the best fit. like how to get the ends to line up the best. The dealer said to wrap tape around the ends and then cut them to leave a clean end then butt them together. But I seem to remember someone posting here that starting in the corner is easier. thanks.

Lift the door off the hinge pins and lay it on a table with the handle off the edge so it'll lay flat.
Clean out all the old glue with a screwdriver and a wire brush if necessary.
Wipe out the channel with rubbing alcohol on a rag and let dry.
Lay down a nice zig-zag bead of gasket cement all the way around the channel.
Peeling the paper strip off the gasket as you go, lay it into the cement peeled-side down.
Start laying the new gasket all the way at the bottom of the hinge-side channel, so the end touches the bottom of the channel, and run up the hinge side, across the top, down the hasp side and across the bottom, until you run into the side of the gasket at the starting end.
Cut the gasket a little long, and squish it into the side of the starting end and the cement at the same time, so you get a tight seam.
Hang and close the door immediately, and leave it closed at room temperature overnight.

Here's a tip from our gasket guru, Howard "Sweet Child" Lopeman: the reason your factory gasket lost its seal so quickly might be that the factory machine stretches the gasket a tad as it comes off the roll, making it a bit thin when it hits the channel. Make sure the new gasket is relaxed as you install it, not stretched out, paying special attention as you turn the corners, so it lays in as plump as can be. You'll get a better door seal longer.

I have a different stove but I found the door was adjustable using the door handle. It has many shims to locate it properly. When I got my stove the door was adjusted improperly with the shims on the inside which kept the door from closing properly. After inspecting it I took the handle off and moved the shims to the outside of the door. Worked great and the door fits great. I recommend buying a door handle kit. You will probably need a handle some day but the real benefit is it comes with a boat load of shims in all sizes to make the door fit properly.

snowtime- I can adjust the handle side of the door, it's the hinge side of the door that isn't sealing well enough. so new gasket it is.

Sorry. For removal of the old glue, use a Sears Craftsman L-16 Standard with a plastic handle and de-magnetized tip.

This needs to be preserved some where. Like "my documents" :coolsmile:

thanks for the help Tom.

I just bought a Breckwell P32 insert and I replaced the old gasket with a new 5/8" kit. But mine also does not seal tight on the door hinge side. I can see the gap and the glass gets very smokey in a few hours. I though the 5/8" kit was the correct kit? Did I do something wrong? When I picked up the stove the door shut nice and snug but now the door feels like it shuts way to easy and doesnt pull snug. What the FFFFFFFFF?!?

Resurrecting this thread, because it's timely, and I need to replace my gasket.

Already have it, courtesy of Tom

Hey all... does anybody have a recommendation for a particular type/brand of gasket cement for my PE Summit? My gasket has sprung, and since it's still in pretty good shape, I'm hoping just a bit of gasket cement will take care of it.

Any thoughts?

Thanks a bunch!

I use silicone caulk here. Never had a problem. The gasket cement in the tube, just didn't work for me, and the gasket fell off mid way into a fire. Not saying no on has not had luck with the cement, I prefer silicone myself.

When I installed my door gasket, I bought the rope off a bulk spool at the dealer and a tube of glue. I called P.E. to get the start stop point. They said to start and stop mid point on the hinge side. Also use tape to make a clean cut and install flat with rope relaxed. So far,great! Tim