Pics of 13NC on EcoBricks

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SmokeyCity

Feeling the Heat
Mar 6, 2011
428
Western Pa
These three pics are of the fire and the two thermometers on deck and stack. I have the air choked off as tight as the 30NC will let me and the ECOs are still cranking out a major heat wave and the deck at 650 but the stack at about 200. This tells me the heat is coming into the house an not up the stack.

I am surprised at how potent these ECO bricks are. Even the air choked off they don't smoke and produce a continuous wave of secondaries. They are so dry.

Of course the 13NC will not shut off all air. There is still a little coming in - but most other woods will not allow a continuous burn with the air shut all the way down like this and just keep cranking out major heat and secondaries.

The dog refuses to leave the hearth. He was outside in the rain for 15 minutes taking care of business and got a cold soaking He is drying off and wants to just lay there till his fur sizzles :)

Ill bet the BKs would really thrive on ECO bricks.

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If you want to compare your results with what others are getting usually the flue pipe therm is around 12 to 16 inches above the stove, much above that and the pipe cools off alot.
 
Is this supposed to be one of those "find 5 things wrong with this picture" quizzes? The 13NC has one of the highest hearth insulation requirements, yet it's parked on a couple 2 x 6's? Galvanized pipe is not smoke pipe. The clearances to combustibles are suspect too, the wall behind not being a proper wall shield. One can only guess what else is wrong up the line here.
 
Is this supposed to be one of those "find 5 things wrong with this picture" quizzes? The 13NC has one of the highest hearth insulation requirements, yet it's parked on a couple 2 x 6's? Galvanized pipe is not smoke pipe. The clearances to combustibles are suspect too. One can only guess what else is wrong up the line here.

I was thinking the same thing this morning when I saw that photo.
 
As it is, the bottom of the well used single wall is barely engaging the flue collar, if he didn't have that lumber down there there it wouldn't reach.
 
As it is, the bottom of the well used single wall is barely engaging the flue collar, if he didn't have that lumber down there there it wouldn't reach.

The joint above it, by the flue thermometer is even worse. And no screws in the pipe. This is reckless IMO, especially with family in the house. (not to mention the exposed romex)
 
Looks like he may be doing some remodeling and this is temporary (hopefully).
 
Perhaps, but when fire is concerned, temporary is no excuse for unsafe. At least set the stove on some 4" cement blocks and snug up that flue, then screw it.
 
Is this supposed to be one of those "find 5 things wrong with this picture" quizzes? The 13NC has one of the highest hearth insulation requirements, yet it's parked on a couple 2 x 6's? Galvanized pipe is not smoke pipe. The clearances to combustibles are suspect too, the wall behind not being a proper wall shield. One can only guess what else is wrong up the line here.


the wall behind is a proper shield. Its got the cement board behind coverd with tile.
 
That's not enough to make it a proper wallshield and unless your specific stove manual allows it, the wallshield makes no difference at all, may as well be plywood. This is not an unlisted device, the manufacturer specifies minimum clearances to combustibles. The hearth has stringent requirements as well.
 
Holy, (insert your own colorful metaphor here) Batman!!!!! :eek: I'm running a 13NC also, so I think I can comment here.

What's under the tile on the floor part of the hearth?? Unless it's concrete, it doesn't look like it'll have the R-2 value the 13 requires under the stove!!

That's the biggest ash shovel I've ever seen also.
 
There needs to be a ventilated, 1" air gap behind the cement board that is open top and bottom. It's not a proper wall shield unless the cement board is on 1" non-combustible spacers. Sorry to be critical, but this is an unsafe installation that needs fixing.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_wall_clear
BG, gotta ask on this one. I went through the manual on my 13. I'm showing 10" from the back of stove/ CTC. The older codes had 36" knocked down by 2/3rd's if the backer had 1" air gap. That would put it at 12" w/gap. Am I reading this correctly?
Regardless, Smokey's stove is waaaaay too close to the backer, and his "hearth" is also not up-to-snuff.
Smokey, please, address this situation.
Thanks, JB
 
BG, gotta ask on this one. I went through the manual on my 13. I'm showing 10" from the back of stove/ CTC. The older codes had 36" knocked down by 2/3rd's if the backer had 1" air gap. That would put it at 12" w/gap. Am I reading this correctly?
Regardless, Smokey's stove is waaaaay too close to the backer, and his "hearth" is also not up-to-snuff.
Smokey, please, address this situation.
Thanks, JB

Any clearance reduction needs to be sanctioned by the mfg., usually in the manual. If they haven't done this then you need to either get it in writing from them or go by the book. For the 13NC this is 10" from the back of the stove. It's hard to tell this from the photos, so it's up to smokey to be sure it's per mfg. specs. Englander docs for this stove are quite confusing here. They refer to unlisted stove specs for some reason which is not appropriate for a tested stove and confuse the issue.
 
Clearances from the NFPA211 specify both a percentage of reduction as well as a minimum allowance. for instance a stove allowed a 36 inch clearnce with a wall protector which allows a 66% reduction would allow 12 inches (if applicable form of protection is used some give a lesser reduction). now a stove which already has a LISTED clearance of 12 inches would NOT be allowed a reduction in this manner as the "minimum" allowed is 12 inches looking at the allowance chart (table 12.6.2.1) so even though the unit may be installed at 12 inches and adding a wall protector SHOULD afford more protection, the 211 having a "minimum clearance" at a hard number of 12 inches will not allow any further reduction (12.6.2.1.2)
"Unless the appliance is specifically listed for lesser clearance, the clearance reduction shall be not less than the following:
(1) 12 in. (305mm) to combustible walls
(2) 18 in. (457mm) to combustible ceilings "

to BG;
chapter 12.6.2 states in paragraph 1 (12.6.2.1) "clearances from listed and unlisted solid -fuel burning appliances to combustible material shall be permitted to be reduced if the combustible material is protected as described in Table 12.6.2.1 and in Figure 12.6.2.1 (a) through Figure 12.6.2.1 (f)"

the 211 is the standard for unlisted units but does also give guidelines for listed units as well when it comoes to "other than manufacturers" additions such as wall protection not attached to the unit or listed along with the unit itself.
 
Mike, my understanding is the UL listed stove mfg. needs to permit an NFPA clearance reduction in their documentation. Is that correct? I didn't find this in the 13NC's docs, but might have missed it.
 
My 13NC manual, rev. 10/08, calls for a floor protector with minimum dimension of 48"x48" with an R value of "no less" than 2 unless installed on a concrete floor which then would require no floor protection.

The same manual says that some areas may require 36" clearance to combustable walls.

The same manual is confusing for side, back and corner clearances.

My stove, on my hearth is as follows..........

Floor......constructed of 2x4's on 12" centers with 1/2" plywood over. Then 2 1/2" layers of Micore with 1/2" layer of Durcok nest gen over that. Then it's just latex mortified thinset with porcelain tile over. The floor part measures approx. 6' wide by 4.5' deep.

Wall behind.........Durock next gen screwed and glued over sheetrock. Then thinset and porcelain tile.

My stove is 13.5" off the back wall..............measured from the heat shield on the back of the stove.

The hottest part of my hearth is out in front of the stove just out from the ash lip. Never get so warm that I cannot hold my hand on it though.

Hope this helps OP.
 
I'm glad I'm not the only one that cringed when looking at this photo.
 
I'm glad I'm not the only one that cringed when looking at this photo.

Unfortunately, it doesn't seem like Smokey is very concerned ;hm

pen
 
That wall is the chimney brick with a cement board sheet against the chimney brick with til over top.
Above the til is the original plaster over the chimney brick.

If that's not good enuf then I can move the stove further from the wall. I have a 5' apron.


There needs to be a ventilated, 1" air gap behind the cement board that is open top and bottom. It's not a proper wall shield unless the cement board is on 1" non-combustible spacers. Sorry to be critical, but this is an unsafe installation that needs fixing.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_wall_clear
 
Its a concrete board under the tile.

Holy, (insert your own colorful metaphor here) Batman!!!!! :eek: I'm running a 13NC also, so I think I can comment here.

What's under the tile on the floor part of the hearth?? Unless it's concrete, it doesn't look like it'll have the R-2 value the 13 requires under the stove!!

That's the biggest ash shovel I've ever seen also.
 
The 2" x 6" would be my Main concern. The stove is resting on a combustible surface. :(

Pavers are cheap right now (out of season) or possibly free ones off of CL?
 
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