Prefab chimney. To install myself or hire

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jstellfox

New Member
Jul 15, 2010
97
PA
My chimney will be a through the wall and up. It will have to go through the eve overhang soffit and up through the roof. Total I'll have about 25 feet of chimney. I am struggling as to whether I should hire someone to do the job or do it myself with help from family, none of which have ever done this type of chimney install. I am looking to use the supervent class A 2100 stainless from Lowes. I would love to do it myself for the savings and the satisfaction of doing it myself, but I also want it to be done correctly and safely. I have the name of a guy who does installs for a stove seller. The owner recommended him to me as he does installs on the side also....what would you all do?
 
If you have average handyman skills and can understand the clearances and supports needed - I'd do it myself. I fretted over doing mine...and after I was done - the worst part was the fretting.
 
do i need anything other then the correct flashing and finishing plate to go up through the eves and soffit? It seems different brands of chimney have different requirements for this?
 
some of the best things you can get for installing that thru the soffit is stuff thats not incl w/ the chimney parts. Most hardware stores have 2'x2' sheets of galvy steel or aluminum. This stuff works great to make some trim or block off plates for going thru odd stuff like an overhanging eave or soffit. Most of the prefab parts you get for applications like this don't quite fit your application: so some tin snips and some sheetmetal make life alot easier.
 
If you go slow, go safe, read the directions and post here if you have any questions, you should be able to do it yourself.
 
summit said:
some of the best things you can get for installing that thru the soffit is stuff thats not incl w/ the chimney parts. Most hardware stores have 2'x2' sheets of galvy steel or aluminum. This stuff works great to make some trim or block off plates for going thru odd stuff like an overhanging eave or soffit. Most of the prefab parts you get for applications like this don't quite fit your application: so some tin snips and some sheetmetal make life alot easier.

I did the same thing last winter.

What he said on the plate to go through the soffit. That's what I did on mine.

The pre-fab is really easy to put up...the hardest part is getting everything figured out and laid out. Once you know where to cut it isn't bad at all.

Hardest part is getting through the wall. You may have to frame up some new support for the thimble. It's not hard to do, but if that sounds beyond your reach you may want to get some help. If you have family/friends with carpentry skills and accept beer as payment, I would go that route before I hire it out.
 
I did mine. I made a drew it out, lined it up on the floor of the garage, cut the holes. and it went up very easy. Like doug&3 said the freting over it was the worst part.

I also took pictures of each part, the UL label specificly, and the install as it progressed for the local inspector. The insurance co. didn't care.

You can always post Q's hear.

Have you got some wood drying? If not start laying in Ash!!

ATB,
Mike
 
summit said:
some of the best things you can get for installing that thru the soffit is stuff thats not incl w/ the chimney parts. Most hardware stores have 2'x2' sheets of galvy steel or aluminum. This stuff works great to make some trim or block off plates for going thru odd stuff like an overhanging eave or soffit. Most of the prefab parts you get for applications like this don't quite fit your application: so some tin snips and some sheetmetal make life alot easier.

He is right! the through the wall kit form Lowes is a very complete kit (less the mounting hardware in mine!). I need to go up through a soffit and shingles so I'll have to flash it up and the Lowes kit for that does not cater to my roof pitch so I would have to order one anyway...I wouldn't buy the through the roof kit only the wall kit and then I would order/make the through the roof kit. Just make sure your flashing is tucked in correctly so that leaks will never be an issue.

Nate
 
Twenty five feet plus the distance from the tee down is a long way to the ground. If you are not comfortable working on very tall ladders, hire it out. In the day I worked on the top rung of thirty footers. Now a step ladder scares the hell out of me. :red:

Had a young stud doing some work for me scamper up a twenty footer and freeze at the top recently. Had to go up and get him and I hated every step of the way.
 
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