Question for installers

[cbova]

Hi all,

I've been working on getting my new to me Harman Advance installed. I have some questions on the venting. If I use the Duravent stuff from the box stores I'm limited to 1' and 3' sections. So with a corner install how do I go out and up? I either have a junction in the wall or 2 feet of a 3 foot section before I can go up. Even I use the adjustable lenght section to get closer to the house that will ind up in the wall thimble and I that's a no-no too I think. What are my options here? I can't imagine I'm the only one who has run into this dilemma. My original plan was to go out and up 5' or so but I can't do that without a junction in the thimble. For now I just went out with the 3 footer. What am I missing? There's got to be a way to go out and up. I wanted to go up to get a little natural draft.

Also what are people doing for OAK flex to get it down to the 2.75ish inlet? I'm not paying for a Harman kit for that. I have 3" aluminum semi rigid flex pipe now and I'm getting some condensation on it. What's the best way to counter that? Insulated pipe?

Thanks
Chris

 

[SidecarFlip]

www.ventingpipe.com That shoud address all your needs.

 

[TimfromMA]

Insulating your OAK pipe will help with the condensation.

 

[JDenyer236]

You could always go up then out. You can also go straight out if you use a battery backup to deal with power outages. Just some thoughts.

 

[bogieb]

You can get 2' sections on the web - here is a regular section at Home Depot. I got a black 2 footer but can't remember where from but if you do a search for 3PVL-24B you will find some selection of vendors (I think I used Hearthside). You will not find 2' sections in stores, only online.

With that said I have too much horizontal pipe outside to put in vertical rise because it terminates too far from my siding. However, if I used a 1' piece, the T would have joined in the thimble. Next spring I will see if I can jigger up an extension for the supports.

 

[cbova]

Thanks guys, that helps. I'll take some measurements again and see if a 6" or 24" will do the trick. Also as far as having a joint in the thimble, Is that a definite no-no? I haven't been able to find any documentation that says it is. It's common sense since these don't seal all that well I wouldn't really trust it where I cant see it. I RTV'd and taped all of the joints inside the house. Looking at the standard brackets and fittings it almost seems like to use the brackets without spacer blocks you'd have to have part of the tee in the wall?

Also for the OAK, can I use a plastic dryer vent for the outside? Or does it all have to be non-combustible? It's 3" semi rigid flex from the stove to the outside.

Thanks.

 

[TimfromMA]

OAK line needs to be non combustible.

 

[bogieb]

My Harman manual directly states:
Note: Do not place joints within wall pass-through

 

[funflyer]

I used two 90s off the stove, then a 45, and finally a 6" and 12" straight. This puts the 12" (last) pipe joint about 2" outside. I have 6" walls so a typical 2x4 wall would have given me 4" outside.

 

[cbova]

Well, that's interesting bogieb, My Advance manual (just downloaded last week from Harman) doesn't mention that, but just looked at the manual for the P61A and sure enough has that very statement. I don't plan on having a joint in the wall, I don't trust it but interesting that note is not in my manual.

 

[bogieb]

Well, that's interesting bogieb, My Advance manual (just downloaded last week from Harman) doesn't mention that, but just looked at the manual for the P61A and sure enough has that very statement. I don't plan on having a joint in the wall, I don't trust it but interesting that note is not in my manual.

Not in my St. Croix manual either.