Anybody have this unit ? Likes and dislikes of operation I am looking at buying one for catalytic burn time and low emissions I have one story 1800 sg ft of living space Thanks
Regency F3500 Free Standing
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Wolves1
Minister of Fire
I have the CI2600 same technology only an insert and I love it. I'm building an extension and I'm buying the f3500.
Appreciate your reply Also, can you load the 18'' logs front to back for burning ? Is a full burn time really about 20+ hours How much sq ft space are you planning on the F3500 heating for your extension ? Thanks
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
Hi Again Thanks for your informative reply. I originally looked at the Blaze King Sirocco 30 but that really only takes 16'' logs and loads east - west. I them looked at the Blaze king Princess takes 20'' logs and load n/s or e/w with 30 hours burn, but emissions is 2.4 gm and it seems to big a stove for 1800 sq ft. The F3500 is 20'' logs and 1.1 gm emissions -- I just could not fine any written reviews on it thus the forum hot line. My Virginia dealer quoted a sell price of $3500 for the F3500 which seems a bit steep -- the dealer recommended the F2400 non-cat 10 hours burn and 3.4 g emissions --- not want I want. Appreciate your info and have a good rest of the weekend.
HAD ONE REPLY ON THE REGENCY F3500 WOOD STOVE - GUESS NOT MANY SALES YET
SO MAYBE I SHOULD LOOK AT THE BLAZE KING PRINCESS AS IT SEEMS TO HAVE MORE SALES.
ANYBODY -- IS THE BK PRINCESS TOO MUCH STOVE FOR 1800 SF FT HOUSE AS I DON'T WANT TO MELT --- SIROCCO 30 FIREBOX IS REALLY SMALL AND EVEN A 16'' LOG IS TOUGH TO LOAD E/W THANKS
SO MAYBE I SHOULD LOOK AT THE BLAZE KING PRINCESS AS IT SEEMS TO HAVE MORE SALES.
ANYBODY -- IS THE BK PRINCESS TOO MUCH STOVE FOR 1800 SF FT HOUSE AS I DON'T WANT TO MELT --- SIROCCO 30 FIREBOX IS REALLY SMALL AND EVEN A 16'' LOG IS TOUGH TO LOAD E/W THANKS
it is a pretty new stove where as the bk has been around for quite a while. I know we havnt sold any 3500s yet. But have a few 5100s out and the customers are very happy so far
Appreciate your reply - Thanks Do you think the F3500 is a better unit or the BK Princess fro 1800 st ft ? I really like the low emissions on the F3500 1.1 g vs the BK Princess 2.4 g.
we don't really see many bks here so i cant compare them honestly sorry
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Good information - thank you for your replies; have a productive rest-of-the week.
I have the F3500 and used for one season. Seems to have a flaw as in it burns up the combustor. I have talked with the manufacturer of the combustor and tells me direct flame burnt the combustor to ashes.
Looking inside the stove and how it's made I can see where the flame can indeed burn the combustor up. I believe the F5100 is built the same way. I have to say after spending over 3 grand for this stove I am pretty disappointed
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
Is your sheiks not in place? We have a few of each hybrid out and have yet to see and problems from flame impingment
I can't understand why your not seeing more cats not being burnt to powder. There is no protection from the flames in this stove.
Are you talking about the shield with all the holes in it? Or the smoke deflector shield?
I was told this stove could withstand a constant fire in it. Since this is our primary heat source in Mi. I'd say I proved that theory wrong. Sad it only cost me over 3000 to prove it. The flame shield protecting the combustor needs some serious re thought.
Even maybe another piece of steel off setting the original flame shield with the same amount of holes so the smoke can still pass through. But I for one am not paying $5 to $600 a yr for a new combustor. Working with the store I got it from to take this stove back and going back to the old conventional stove.
Are you talking about the shield with all the holes in it? Or the smoke deflector shield?
I was told this stove could withstand a constant fire in it. Since this is our primary heat source in Mi. I'd say I proved that theory wrong. Sad it only cost me over 3000 to prove it. The flame shield protecting the combustor needs some serious re thought.
Even maybe another piece of steel off setting the original flame shield with the same amount of holes so the smoke can still pass through. But I for one am not paying $5 to $600 a yr for a new combustor. Working with the store I got it from to take this stove back and going back to the old conventional stove.
Have you had your dealer out to check for problems? What is your typical burning procedure? I only ask because from my customers (most of whom burn full time) and other reviews what you are experiencing is not at all typical. Yes they had some early issues with over drafting but they addressed that. And no their burn times don't rival bk at all. But I think something else is going on with your stove.
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
My wood is all over a yr old under cover. The manufacturing company that has my combustor told me it was due to direct flame hitting the combustor. If you use green or wet wood the combustor will crack. Not turn to ash.
Yes it will start by cracking. And then may disintegrate. Not saying it is the issue but it could be. And depending on the wood the climate the way you stack etc you wood may still be pretty wet. Did you check it with a meter???
Ok that is a start did you check the glass? The hole for the probe? The hole for the bypass? Has any pro taken a look at it to try to figure out the issue? Has anyone tested for overdraft?
I really am not trying to defend recency or attack you or anything. Just trying to figure out why you are having these issues when we havnt seen them from others. Both to help you and so I know of potential issues with the stoves I sell.
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
How big of a flame is there? How much do you keep the air open? I’m also just trying to under stand what happened. I have the F3500 and ci2600. The f3500 this will be my 2nd year burning and is still perfect. The ci2600 I’ve had for 3 years,the first year I was burning green wood and had some cracking but it is still working fine. Is the cat completely turned to ash with nothing left?
Like I said earlier, I cut dead wood to begin with , stack it under vented cover, and let set a season. As I always cut a yr ahead. Stack the wood approx 4 ft from my stove. Week supply at a time. It is as dry as could be.
I know I don't have an over draft problem. My glass is fine. The by pass gasket is good as well as the probe.
I've been burning wood for about 30 yrs and have good knowledge with wood and stoves.
The stove controls the flame great with the air intake. I can shut it down great or let it go full burn. Most of the time in the winter it's open about 3/4 And is a great stove with the exception of the combustor burning to ash after a season.
the only thing I have not done is to get a factory rep to come check out the stove. Would love to do so.
I have sent the bad combustor back to the factory in Ga. I have even spoken to one of guys in charge At length about the problem.
As far as starting and maintaining a fire, We open the bypass , we start with kindling. Use a propane torch to get it started. Add as we get fire established. Wait approximately 10 to 15 mins when gets to temp , shut the bypass door. As we add wood. Before I open the door I open the bypass then door, add wood , shut the door , then shut the bypass.
I know I don't have an over draft problem. My glass is fine. The by pass gasket is good as well as the probe.
I've been burning wood for about 30 yrs and have good knowledge with wood and stoves.
The stove controls the flame great with the air intake. I can shut it down great or let it go full burn. Most of the time in the winter it's open about 3/4 And is a great stove with the exception of the combustor burning to ash after a season.
the only thing I have not done is to get a factory rep to come check out the stove. Would love to do so.
I have sent the bad combustor back to the factory in Ga. I have even spoken to one of guys in charge At length about the problem.
As far as starting and maintaining a fire, We open the bypass , we start with kindling. Use a propane torch to get it started. Add as we get fire established. Wait approximately 10 to 15 mins when gets to temp , shut the bypass door. As we add wood. Before I open the door I open the bypass then door, add wood , shut the door , then shut the bypass.
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