Remembering a post that has ways to block off the intake for sec's to slow or stop burn
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Precaud posted a thread about modifying his Morso a few years back. FWIW, I would use the stove for at least a season before modifying it. That way you will be familiar and comfortable with how the stove burns under a wide range of conditions.
I was just going through my 30-NC. Took all the firebrick out and wanted to understand the workings a little better.. Going to be installed within a month or so.
The Primary air, comes from the "Air Wash". I blew compressed air in the Main 3" hole in the back of the stove (For the OAK) and with all the Firebrick out, No air came from the bottom or the front/bottom of stove. I was surprised. I thought I read somewhere that the Primary air on the 30 comes from the Bottom/Front. The Secondary is a Square/Rectangular on the bottom/backside of stove. Blo.w in that square hole and air comes out all secondaries.
I dont think I will be messing with any Modifications this season. My 1st year w/ the 30. Just wanted to share my info. How many other stoves Primary air, come from the "Air Wash"?? Got me thinking.
How many have "Mod'ed" there stoves to take less air, for a Longer, slower, but yet cooler burn. Does not seem beneficial to do this.
The Primary air, comes from the "Air Wash". I blew compressed air in the Main 3" hole in the back of the stove (For the OAK) and with all the Firebrick out, No air came from the bottom or the front/bottom of stove. I was surprised. I thought I read somewhere that the Primary air on the 30 comes from the Bottom/Front. The Secondary is a Square/Rectangular on the bottom/backside of stove. Blo.w in that square hole and air comes out all secondaries.
I dont think I will be messing with any Modifications this season. My 1st year w/ the 30. Just wanted to share my info. How many other stoves Primary air, come from the "Air Wash"?? Got me thinking.
How many have "Mod'ed" there stoves to take less air, for a Longer, slower, but yet cooler burn. Does not seem beneficial to do this.
I once used some aluminum foil to block off the air intake . . . works well . . . and cheaply . . . and then one time I only blocked off part of the air flow . . . and the results were very cool . . . kindof like a slow motion secondary burn. . . I wouldn't recommend doing that again though as the effect was a little odd looking.
Bub381 said:
I'm not sure how the Rangeley air intakes are designed. Some stoves take the secondary off of a common intake and some have the secondary intake in a different location than the primary. If your intake is the sole intake then it should snuff out the fire fairly effectively. If the intakes are separate, by blocking off only one you may see an odd burn pattern, like with the secondaries only burning or the opposite, no secondaries, but a fire at the front of the firebox (fed by just the airwash).
NC30 : Thanks for the information on the secondary air feed. I had called Englander about that and did not get a specific answer. The second part of my question was about feeding that intake with the oak, answer was yea, well you could do that. Again pretty vague. Making an adapter to feed both from the oak will likely improve my stove's performance as the house is pretty darn tight. Tight enough that I get a back draft from the exhaust power vent of the hot water heater when it is not firing. Now as the secondary air is supposed to be preheated might have to do a bit of fancy plumbing.
Note: I noticed last season while running the blower attached to the back of the nc30 that it seemed to degrade the secondary performance. Your investigation confirms my suspicions. The blower intake is at its bottom which, with where it mounts, is just above that intake although stepped out about 6". Additionally with the factory blower on high speed and the stove down to a low coaling stage I believe there is some likely hood of co being pulled out through the secondaries. My alarm never went off but the nose says something wasn't just right.
Note: I noticed last season while running the blower attached to the back of the nc30 that it seemed to degrade the secondary performance. Your investigation confirms my suspicions. The blower intake is at its bottom which, with where it mounts, is just above that intake although stepped out about 6". Additionally with the factory blower on high speed and the stove down to a low coaling stage I believe there is some likely hood of co being pulled out through the secondaries. My alarm never went off but the nose says something wasn't just right.
Bub381 said:
The Rangeley has separate intakes for primary and secondary air. Just blocking the primary intake under the front will not work.
Want to know ways to shut the air off this stove completely incase of overburn or it gets away from me.Just incase
Just a thought,not thinking of shutting air off for a slower burn,just to completely starve it if i have to.Read the title of this post.The conversation has gotten off track.Thank ya all for your replies.
Just a thought,not thinking of shutting air off for a slower burn,just to completely starve it if i have to.Read the title of this post.The conversation has gotten off track.Thank ya all for your replies.[quote author="Bub381" date="1313644366"]Want to know ways to shut the air off this stove completely incase of overburn or it gets away from me.Just incase Just a thought,not thinking of shutting air off for a slower burn,just to completely starve it if i have to.Read the title of this post.The conversation has gotten off track.Thank ya all for your replies.[/quote
Do you have a Shop Vac or an Air compressor. Without knowing a thing about any stove. If you blow air into a hole, or suck air out, you will see and or feel air movement.
Light a Match with the Shop vac hooked up to your primary air. If the Smoke is drawn to your Secondaries, then there combined. If not. Then find the other "Hole/Holes" on the bottom of your stove. I used compressed air and my hand. Worked well. I always thought there was a Primary source of air on the front/bottom of the 30. I thought I read it somewhere. I got to looking at it this weekend (1st year, yet to burn it), and realized that the Primary is all "Air-Wash". Was a little surprising. I always thought Fires burnt better, when oxygen was introduced underneath the fire. Kind of like building a fire in a Barrel. Without holes on the bottom, the fire does not burn. The secondary air is a square hole on the bottom back by the Primary inlet.
Figuring this out will help in case of a runaway stove. I am glad I found out how and where the air is introduced. Helps understand how the air is brought in, to help maximize the efficiency and the burn of the stove. Also whether or not N/S loading or E/W loading would be more beneficial. IMO...
I hope someone can answer your question. If not, it would only take a few minutes to figure out yourself (If you have Air/Compressed or Vacuum).
Just a thought,not thinking of shutting air off for a slower burn,just to completely starve it if i have to.Read the title of this post.The conversation has gotten off track.Thank ya all for your replies.[/quoteDo you have a Shop Vac or an Air compressor. Without knowing a thing about any stove. If you blow air into a hole, or suck air out, you will see and or feel air movement.
Light a Match with the Shop vac hooked up to your primary air. If the Smoke is drawn to your Secondaries, then there combined. If not. Then find the other "Hole/Holes" on the bottom of your stove. I used compressed air and my hand. Worked well. I always thought there was a Primary source of air on the front/bottom of the 30. I thought I read it somewhere. I got to looking at it this weekend (1st year, yet to burn it), and realized that the Primary is all "Air-Wash". Was a little surprising. I always thought Fires burnt better, when oxygen was introduced underneath the fire. Kind of like building a fire in a Barrel. Without holes on the bottom, the fire does not burn. The secondary air is a square hole on the bottom back by the Primary inlet.
Figuring this out will help in case of a runaway stove. I am glad I found out how and where the air is introduced. Helps understand how the air is brought in, to help maximize the efficiency and the burn of the stove. Also whether or not N/S loading or E/W loading would be more beneficial. IMO...
I hope someone can answer your question. If not, it would only take a few minutes to figure out yourself (If you have Air/Compressed or Vacuum).
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