A friend said he knows someone who when he buys a new chain the first thing he does is grind the rakers off. I know rakers are supposed to prevent kick-back. Just wondering if any of you remove the rakers rather than grind them a little at a time?
Remove chain rakers?
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Only if I feel like cutting off an arm that day.
The rakers are not safety devices. They do limit how much wood the chisel cuts in one pass much like setting the depth on a planer. Set too shallow the chisel doesn't remove any wood and makes a slow cut, almost like a dull chain. Too deep and the chisels take too big a bite causing the saw to stall in the wood, grab and pull/push excessively on the operator, not to mention the extreme kick-back and kick-out potential.
I set the rakers on my chains after sharpening a couple times with a depth gauge tool. The tool is available cheap at any saw shop.
The rakers are not safety devices. They do limit how much wood the chisel cuts in one pass much like setting the depth on a planer. Set too shallow the chisel doesn't remove any wood and makes a slow cut, almost like a dull chain. Too deep and the chisels take too big a bite causing the saw to stall in the wood, grab and pull/push excessively on the operator, not to mention the extreme kick-back and kick-out potential.
I set the rakers on my chains after sharpening a couple times with a depth gauge tool. The tool is available cheap at any saw shop.
amateur cutter
Minister of Fire
Adjust raker height as Master mech described. Taking them down too far makes a very rough cutting chain, & the vibes going back into the PTO end of the saw can damage crank seals & bearings.
zzr7ky
Minister of Fire
- Jun 12, 2006
- 1,053
Agree with these fellows. If the rakers are too low it's especially touchy business. Why put work into screwwing up what "Ain't broke" ? I think some of this is old wives tales carried over from early/poor 'saftey chain' and attampts to make it cut.
Using real chain, hitting the rakers about every 5 tanks of gas seems to work well for me.
ATB,
Mike
Using real chain, hitting the rakers about every 5 tanks of gas seems to work well for me.
ATB,
Mike
smokinj
Minister of Fire
If you take the raker off its not going to cut....I call B.S.! lol Filing it done just a hair is ok.
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
Cowboy Billy
Minister of Fire
I could not imagine cutting the raker all the way off. The raker controls how big a bite of the wood the tooth takes. Also the more you cut back the raker the more stress it puts on the chain. When I was in my 20's I used to cut the rakers way back taking them back .040 or more. It was enough that it would pick up a 4" cut round on the pick it up and throw it into my shins leaving me with bruises. And in a good size tree it would give a good 30lbs of force pulling it into the tree if I wasn't pulling back hard it would pull me into it. I still run mine at the max recommended .030. But I have had too many close call to go beyond that anymore.
Billy
Billy
Uper
Member
I talked with a Stihl dealer about this. What happens if they are ground too low is that it lifts the front edge of the cutting tooth as it goes through. This causes one or two cutting links behind it to not grab. So, the cutting actually becomes much less efficient. Also as the front edge of the cutting link lifts up, it puts stress on the hind rivet and will start to wear that rivet out shortening the life of the chain. Best to keep it where the tool directs and keep the cutting edges sharp.
As a side note, he also told me to use a file that was 1/64" less than recommended on the cutting tooth until it gets worn to about half-way through, then go with the recommended size. ex. for my chain he recommended a 13/64" file until it gets half worn, then go to the 7/32".
As a side note, he also told me to use a file that was 1/64" less than recommended on the cutting tooth until it gets worn to about half-way through, then go with the recommended size. ex. for my chain he recommended a 13/64" file until it gets half worn, then go to the 7/32".
smokinjay said:
Believe it or not, I have a big brute of a friend that I can not talk out of doing this. He does it to every chain he has. The machine cuts, but its like holding on to a rock screen in a gravel pit. Uhuhuhuhuhuhuhuh.
smokinj
Minister of Fire
smokinjay said:
Yep, thats what I'm talking about. This dude is a big brute and says it doesn't bother him. Actually, he looks like he is using a toy saw to begin with. Then his little brother (at 6'11" and 500 pounds) shows up, and you can't even see the power head because his hands are in the way. :lol:
First, "raker" is a misnomer. On a crosscut saw you have cutters that act like scribing knives and RAKERS that act like chisels to actually remove the wood between the scribed lines. The cutting edge is the leading edge, typically with mirror-image for other direction.
On a chipper/chisel saw chain, you have DEPTH GAUGES leading cutters, to determine depth of cut. The depth gauges cut nothing, and the business end is the trailing edge. Read what's been published, like from experts at Pioneer, Oregon, etc., etc.
Anyone suggesting removing depth gauges needs professional help. Or a protective order.
Recently received a new chain with a refurb Husqvarna 455r. Depth gauges have a folded-over section right in front of the cutter, like a puppy's ear. Anyone have an idea why they're so, and if they're effective. No problems noted here.
On a chipper/chisel saw chain, you have DEPTH GAUGES leading cutters, to determine depth of cut. The depth gauges cut nothing, and the business end is the trailing edge. Read what's been published, like from experts at Pioneer, Oregon, etc., etc.
Anyone suggesting removing depth gauges needs professional help. Or a protective order.
Recently received a new chain with a refurb Husqvarna 455r. Depth gauges have a folded-over section right in front of the cutter, like a puppy's ear. Anyone have an idea why they're so, and if they're effective. No problems noted here.
smokinj
Minister of Fire
Thistle
Minister of Fire
CTYank said:
Sounds like Oregon Vanguard safety chain.OK for casual user/homeowner,worthless for serious cutting though.I do keep an older worn one hanging on wall of shed when I have to cut any yardbirds near fencing or salvaged similar stuff.Wont risk ruining a new or freshly sharpened Full Chisel chain on them.
TreePointer
Minister of Fire
One of those "puppy ear" raker chains comes standard on the Makita 6401. It's still sitting in its sealed bag on my workbench. Maybe I'll use it to cut some roots when removing a stump.
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