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Removing Elmira Stoveworks Insert

Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by Prospector, Jul 4, 2013.

  1. Prospector

    Prospector New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2013
    Messages:
    2
    Loc:
    Toronto
    Hey guys - new here, but not to living with ashes and soot.

    I just got an offer for a free Elmira Stoveworks insert but I have to remove it tonight. Does anyone on here have tips for extracting the unit? From what I have found online, its a matter of removing trim, then just sliding it out of the firebox.

    From what I remember as a kid, these were pretty airtight, and efficient (for their time). How do I remove the chimney liner? How is the unit sealed to the firebox in the fireplace? Are there any special tools needed for the extraction?

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  2. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    46,005
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    It's possible that this will be a slammer install, no liner. Don't copy the installation if this is the case. Laying down some heavy gauge sheet metal in front of the insert makes it much easier to slide out and protects the hearth.
  3. Ram 1500 with an axe...

    Ram 1500 with an axe... Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2013
    Messages:
    1,688
    Loc:
    New Jersey
    Go, get it rip it out and see what you got, get it all.....let us know what happens
  4. Prospector

    Prospector New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2013
    Messages:
    2
    Loc:
    Toronto
    Thanks for the replies guys.

    It did have a liner in the chimney, and a collar to go between the flue liner and the insert, however I doubt that hte liner was ever acctually connected to the insert. I say this because when I pulled out the insert, the liner fell into the empty fireplace, and I didn't have to undo any screws or anything. I pulled, it fell.

    What I got is an older insert with twin fans. Complete. I bent a couple of the dampers (this unit has four adjustable dampers with brass knobs), but I think I can pound them back into shape. The shelf area above the firebox has some pitting and rust, so I may sand it down and repaint. There was only firebrick on th efloor of the unit, however there were ashes and charred wood (who burns without firebrick!?!). I took the flue liner adapter, but will have to install a new liner our chimney before reinstalling the insert at my place. I'm not sure how to feed the liner past our chimney damper, or how to remove the chimney damper. Those questions can wait until install day though, which will likely not be for a month or two.

    Removal was exceedingly simple. I had a 4-wheeled appliance dolly and a 2-wheeled handcart. I set the appliance dolly in front of the mantle, slid the unit far enough forward to get it clear of the FP opening, then removed all trim pieces (there was a large backplate, and 2 grilles) and the doors. The bolts were in rough shape after 30 years of heat/cool cycles, and one was badly stripped. Undoing the bolts was the only challenge worth talking about.

    With the trim removed, I slid the unit off the mantle and onto the dolly, then wheeled it across the house to the front entry. There I tipped it up onto the dolly and wheeled it out to the truck. Our trailer has a low deck, so I was able to roll the unit off the dolly and onto the trailer (this is where I bent the damper). Removal was completed in 45 minutes. Would have been less if the bolts weren't so problematic, or if I had remembered a ratchet driver instead of using a wrench.

    For the price, this deal can't be beat. I need firebrick and a liner, and then I have a good insert for backup heat without my home heat going up the chimney.
  5. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    46,005
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    Post some pics if you get a chance, especially of the flue collar and damper.

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