Resolute damper falls inward.

Post in 'Vermont Castings & CDW Dutchwest older Models' started by Boz, Jan 18, 2014.

  1. Boz

    Boz
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    hello from NH! So I have a hand me down 1st gen. Resolute. it appears that the "ears left and right" are floating to much. pivot nubs on the damper act like they are to short.
    Anyone have this issue? how to resolve?

    thanks!
    Boz
     

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  2. webbie

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    Do you mean it doesnt' lock in place and falls back?

    If so, I've usually found the problem is this. You have to push very hard on the damper handle AFTER the damper is already closed...and then it enters a locked position. Many users don't push it that extra couple inches, so it falls back.

    You'll hear the damper locking in when you push hard enough.
     
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  3. Boz

    Boz
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    only one side or the other of the damper falls out of it's pivot point. I know what you mean about pushing the damper handle.. IMG_1933.JPG
     
  4. webbie

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    Ah......
    It looks like it's cradle has slightly spread - might be time for a "jury-rig" fix.....lots of possible ways to go about it. You could try a long tie (threaded) rod to pull the two sides back together....or extend the tabs on the damper by drilling and tapping and putting a short bolt on there, etc.

    I can't see all the angles you can, but that's my take....
     
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  5. Boz

    Boz
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    yup. both side "ears" as called on the parts list, wiggle enough to drop the damper. I will look into the tie rod idea first.
    do you feel I should use some hi temp ss rod?
    thanks a bunch Webbie
     
  6. webbie

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    Regular threaded rod should be fine......3/16" or 1/4"
     
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  7. defiant3

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    Or try getting a Resolute 3 fireback kit and installing it. It replaces the whole damper assy. with an updated modular type unit that is independent of the fireback, and yes, there's a new fireback in there too. As one might imagine from a thing called "
    fireback kit".
     
  8. defiant3

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    Do A search, you may find there's someone who will do this for you in your home in NH!!
     
  9. webbie

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    Definitely a possibility, but at over $300 including shipping plus installation costs (probably $150+) it matches the price of the original stove. Still, not a bad deal considering an equiv. stove today would be 1K or more......

    I'm cheap...so if I can fix instead of restore, I'll do it!
     
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  10. Boz

    Boz
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    I'll fix it, I cheap also......
    thanks everyone!
    Boz aka 8oz/halfpint
     
  11. Boz

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    IMG_1940.JPG IMG_1941.JPG Ok so some things are coming together... When I first took off the plenum I found a piece of key stock just sitting there......thought it may have fallen in during storage... Nope, I found where it went..wedged in the side plate aka ear. So I reinstalled the key stock with a bfh. Then pulled the damper out and drilled and tapped 10-32 on the left hinge pin. Made final adjustments with some washers.. So far so good.
    Now I need to get all the rope gasket to button it up..
    8oz
     
  12. deadtvs

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    Boz:

    I know this is and older thread, but I have this exact same problem. Did your screw-in-the-end solution work permanently? Also - do you think that key stock was "stock", as in factory-installed? Mine does not have that. Do you think the key stock alone would do any good? Finally - what size screw did you use?

    So far my jerry-rigging has consisted of inserting some short sections of plumber's strapping underneath the bottom of the damper, where it rotates, to take out some of the slack - that helps, it's maybe 50% better, but still falls in now and then - usually when the stove is already ripping along, so it's a PITA to try to lift it and put it back in place!

    Our stove has a small crack in the fireback, which likely explains why this is happening - it probably spread just enough to allow the pins to fall out. I know, I should go for the new kit, but this is a family cabin, and jointly we're probably even cheaper than you! The stove works fine otherwise. Your screw solution looks pretty good. I would have been a bit afraid to drill/tap that thing, but looks like it worked OK for you.

    Also - I don't see how the threaded stock idea would work, as it seems any place to install it would be in the way of the damper rotating, no?

    Thanks - winter comin' on in the Rockies, time to get this workin!
     
  13. Boz

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    Hey deadtvs, the key stock was not factory. I think my stove may have been overheated. hence the fit issues..the screw fix is still holding well. I used a 10-32 button head. It drilled easy, no drill press or bridgeport...just center punch to start the drill in the center. let the drill do the work use light pressure. I used Marvel Mystery oil for cutting fluid when drilling or taping.
    hope this helps!
    Boz
     

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