Saw hot rodders, school me

Muffler mods. ? Is it something you do to your existing muff. Is carb tuning necessary after?
My #1 go to saw is a stock 044. Keep in mind that for 20 some years all that I have ever done to this saw is pour oil & fuel into it, normal bar & chain stuff, and replace the handle/tank assy. And obviously I am completely satisfied with the saws performance, but now I wonder what am missing?

044 is an easy one for muffler mods. Use the 046/MS460 Austrailian muffler or it's aftermarket equivalent.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=QA 11281 400616&utm_source=nextag&utm_medium=cse

You can do a DIY on your existing muffler by adding a port or widening the existing one but for the 044, Dual-Port mufflers are cheap and work.

What's it gonna get me? Is it a night/day kinda thing or just a little more?

It's not a woods port job but for about $30 (check ebay) it's a solid improvement. StihlHead and a few others here have more experience with "hot saws."

Heck for $30, buy the DP muffler. Slap it on and richen the H side just a little. See if you like it. If you don't, sell the DP muffler on ebay.

Muffler mods are easy, and on the newer saws can really make a noticeable improvement, and they are well worth doing. Not to mention they make the saw sound badass! Like HS said, a quick tweak of the hi-lo screws and your off to the races......

What your going to get is a faster saw that uses more gas. If you cut alot of wood its a wash but if you only use a couple tanks of fuel anyways do the modd. Again its all just a wash and comes down to cutting style. Real game change would be bigger fuel tank with modded saw!

I learned a long time ago do not f*** with those 2 screws! Me & single cyl. motors do not get along, now I just replaced the handle/tank on that saw, pc. of cake, but tuning & making a non running saw run, not my thing. Then I'll have another saw to put in the not running shelf.
thanks for the reply's.

It will be necessary to re-tune the saw after any kind of muffler change or modification. Swapping the muffler without retuning will result in another saw on your "not running" shelf. I'm sure your dealer would be happy to retune the saw for a modest fee. Perhaps they wouldn't even charge you.

Who tunes your saws now? Just change the muffler and have your tuner richen it up.

I dual ported the muffler on this beast one hot day last July.Run great before,even better afterwards.Would like to install a 2100 piston/cylinder eventually,but dont know if that would work or not....

For the record, here's a pic of what the Stihl OEM version looks like. One of these just happened to show up here recently.

Sorry to be stupid, but my saw starts, sounds "proper" and for 20+ years, has never been tuned up! Just gas & oil.
You guys are really making me think. I really thought that if a saw runs (2-3 pulls to "pop" running on the 4th) leave it alone! Can you teach a guy to tune a saw? It is just 2 screws mostly, right? Don't get me wrong I am not being sarcastic. My (old) neighbor was a Stihl dealer and I have watched him "set up" new saws, revving up and fooling around with a tiny screwdriver. I just never heard much of any difference with his adjustments. Maybe I'm just a lucky s.o.b., my saws do cut about 10 cord a year and farm use, it's not like they sit around mostly. My not running shelf has a (bought new) 045 and a little 028?WB that a guy gave me that did run but sat for close to 3 years and just barely runs shitty.
I really would like to learn how to tune a saw!

This big-azz saw makes it easier to hear what's going on.

That is a big saw! How important is the tach?

You can tune strictly by ear but it's useful to make sure you are not exceeding the "redline" for the saw.

Yeah that's a big saw... about the same power as an 880.

Been fighting with a bit of off idle bog on my 460, ideas?

Its fine if it just idles a few secs between cuts, but if I set the saw down for a bit, when I grab it again I have to kind of feather the throttle a bit to get it to rev.

I think the previous owner had this issue cause the idle was set pretty high. Was ok with a big bar, but with the 18" bar I run it would spin the chain dangerously fast!

Have you tried adjusting the L screw yet? Sounds as if it's a tad lean.

Sounds like your saws run great. My only slight concern would be the max rpm in different weather conditions.

Mine runs great but bogs down a bit under a load, just put in a new carb kit. What should I do? (026)

You can try adjusting the H while the saw is cutting (for trained professionals only! ) and see if that has an effect. If not, then the problem is elsewhere. You can also just re-tune with a richer setting on the H. Air filter should be new or spotlessly clean before re-tuning a saw.