do have any more pipe? if not can you add some cheap pipe to the top to see if you can draw more when draft is open and less when is shut? have you tried any dry wood?
if it is easy to do id try a piece of cheap pipe in the top, i know the theory, but it helped me. how wet is your wood? are you using to much btu drying the wood? do you have access to dry pine logs? those really work good. thats all my father inlaw uses and gets 12 hours out of it, and has cleaned his out once this year.trailhound68 said:Beans, Mine won't come up to temp with that low draft reading. Big difference, I think, is that I have a 6" flue. The same draft reading will not produce the same volume of air through the stove.
I do have a sizable load, maybe more than I thought. Seems to work better though with the damper, not as much ash. Somewhere, someone had posted a comment about alot of ash built up in the exhaust, almost choking off the draft. I had a similar situation where the ash was in the exhaust pipe to where it was restricted to about half. She was still breathing though, better of course when I cleaned it.
2.beans said:my boiler is 250 feet from my house. and for the pine to oak per pound btu's ive read in a beckett boiler instruction book that red pine had a higher btu output per weight. so i dont know who to beleive. all i know is i get pine pulp for free and it works real well. seton boilers were designed around soft wood.
ISeeDeadBTUs said:I'll take the mystery outa' it for ya . . . I'll trade you all my pine/hemlock/apsen pound for pound for your oak. In Upstate NY we can turn a full load of pine into about an hour of heat . . . as long as no one takes a shower during that hour. People who use that stupid cliche 'A pound of pine gives as much heat as a pound of oak' obviously have either never burned oak or can't get any for the foreseeable future.