Hi, back again. I'm getting ready to weld in the "new" secondary air system into my old TIMBERLINE burner. And now I'm second guessing myself about the baffle angle. I had planned it for a 5 degree slope, back to front-up. The air feed tubes are 14.188" in length, 2x2 sq., with 4 burn tubes spaced about 3.625" c/c. Tubes are 1.125x .120 DOM for the time being. Holes are .9375 diam., @ 1" OC over 18". My question is- should I keep with the 5 degree-up angle for a natural smoke route, or would it be OK to go flat horizontal? My top plate is 1/2" steel, with 6" of front clearance for smoke. The plate will be above the doors by a few inches. I'm also going to add firebrick on top of the plate after install (like PEN did). I got this idea from GLFPORSHE, so if you're around, let me know your thoughts. Thanks all, I'm ready for all feedback.( I'm wearing my leathers, and dieing to strike an arc, right now, but I find I might squat to pee)
SMOKE SHELF/ BAFFLE ANGLE- 2nd Guessing myself!!
- Thread starter Beetle-Kill
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OK, I'm impatient. How about this- As I don't have one handy, what angle appears to be the norm on the EPA stoves? NC-30, Quad 5700, PE Summit, etc.- most of the views I've seen have the secondary airflow about horizontal. Sorry for my haste, but I have to have this sucker working by next weekend. Cold-blooded company coming in for a week, and it's gonna snow again, already.
Every EPA reburn stove I have ever looked at slopes the baffle up from back to front. Just makes sense really since the path for the gases is to carry them across the fire up to the exit at the front of the stove. If you are exiting the gases at the rear of the firebox I guess you go the other way but you aren't going to be holding them in the firebox long enough for them to burn. You want the gases to be blown back in the stove and have to pass over the flames and under the reburn tubes on the way out.
BB- Thank you . I just need'ed some positive re-inforcement. I'm going with the 5 degree-up. My baffle plate is removable by design, so I guess I can always add an angled lip to it in the future, to impede smoke flow. What is unfortunate, is if this thing works, I'll never get to see it in operation( solid doors- no glass). I plan on using incense sticks to check the air-pull up the feed tubes. Once again, thank you for the reply, I can't tell you how much I've learned from your(all of you) experience. (hope my boss never reads this).
Man if you r a weldder why dont you make a new door with a piece of glass in it and keep your origanal door to put back on thats what i did with my stove you dont have airwash so it aint gonna stay clean long but long enough you can see if your creation is gonna work. thats what i did
Well some of us lost our jobs during this thing going on whats it called ohh yeah a recesion. IM a pro unemloyed welder with nothing to do and no money haven to read about everybodys secondary burn. So here we go
'Bout time someone got on-board! Yup', I'm a welder, fab guy, with mills-lathes-welders-shears-ironworkers-and other stuff at his disposal. But, "O's" economy has caught up with me, so I gotta use the TIMBERLINE for this season at least. I'm thinkin' BKK next. My post had to do with me being "anal retentive" about performance. I honestly don't know if 5 deg. would make a diff., I really just want it to burn better, utilizing Lodgepole pine as it's main diet. Plus, I think the secondary system will drastically reduce the potential creosote accumilation. I really appreciate all comments, even when it's meant to be humor. You would laugh if you saw what I was burnig now.
I don't laugh at how anybody stays warm. It is just that there are well designed wood stoves available that don't break the bank. Well, as long as you remember my motto that it ain't furniture, it's heat.
I burned a Timberline competitor for a lot of years. And now know that there are stoves half those stoves size that can put out as much heat as they did. Of course not being a believer I bought the big boy and heat us out of the joint on occasion. :red:
I burned a Timberline competitor for a lot of years. And now know that there are stoves half those stoves size that can put out as much heat as they did. Of course not being a believer I bought the big boy and heat us out of the joint on occasion. :red:
Beetle this O economy is keeping us all down do what you gotta do to keep the family warm and keep yourself occupied so you dont go crazy. Ive heard of guys putting the angle on the baffle and being mad later because they lose room for wood in the back i think you would be fine with a horizantal baffle or maybe 1 or 2 degrees maybe just a slight angle.
BB-I'm NOT knockin' you in any way. But right now, even the $1200 I was quoted for the NC-30 was a stretch on the budget. Things are a wee-bit-grim, but spring looks good. As for what I'm burning now, you have to trust me, this thing is a comedy. I can't give anymore away, as I wish to use a picture of it burning for my avatar in the future. Current Love/Hate relationship-(love it when it's burning, hate it when it's not). Results of the "Timberline" to follow in about 2-weeks.(Prob. Fire-Marshall's report- LOL) I honestlly DO appreciate your views! Thanks again, B-K
TO:brokeburner: I am going to a 5 degree angle, back-low, to up ,at front for the smoke to go out a path. So, I'm wondering why the current "High Profile" stoves have the secondary air-flow in a horizontal air path. Is this just a CAD profile for the basic consumer? I don't know. I really just want to know if 5 degrees is cool with everyone, as far as an angle is concerned. You keep strong, it's gonna' get better in the spring.
I've experimented with mine slightly up at front, near level, and slightly up at the back. Not a lot of difference either way. The key seems to be keeping the slope shallow enough the smoke doesn't roll off the baffle and right out the front of the stove when the doors are open. I was curious if having the back up slightly might encourage the 'smoke' to stay in the top of the firebox longer, transfer more heat and burn more completely. Didn't note anything drastic - I'd probably have to instrument the stove with thermocouples and burn exact units of wood to note a difference.
I would think anywhere from 5 degrees or less would work well.
I would think anywhere from 5 degrees or less would work well.
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