Splitter carburetor

[ericm979]

Ok not there yet. I pulled the cord 2 times in a choke mode, with the 2nd time sounded like it almost turned over. Then the pull cord became very hard to pull. I took off the plate for the pull cord. The cord itself pulls fine and retracts normally. When I manually turn the motor, it is resistant and at one point in my turn becomes very difficult to turn.

Normally a single cylinder gets hard to turn by hand when the piston is on the compression stroke. If it's really hard to turn or stops, something is wrong. The test for this is to remove the spark plug and turn the engine. If it turns easily then it was just on the compression stroke and its fine. Make sure nothing falls into the hole and be careful when putting the plug back in that you don't cross thread or over tighten it.

I gave it about 2 hours and then went back to it with the same result.
Not sure if the small adjustment I made or my handling of the carb caused this.
Looking for ideas again, lol!

On most of these small industrial engines there is an automatic compression release that cracks the exhaust valve open slightly to make it easier to start the engine. Its normally internal to the engine. Here's a video explaining it and showing the parts:

 

[Ctwoodtick]

If it doesn't smell like gas then that's not it...could just be flooded? Take choke off and pull it a few times with throttle full open...if no luck then try choke again for a few pulls...

He said above that the float is all plastic, non adjustable...common with these elcheapo carbs...

Ok did this today- nothing.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Whole lot going on here. You said you pulled the cord and the motor wouldn't turn, then you removed the pull start mechanism and it was working fine. At that point you should have removed the spark plug and seen if it was wet and if the engine would turn freely. Basic theory, you can't compress a liquid.

OK, after trying the motor again with no luck, I did what you said and pulled the spark plug. Spark plug was dry. Tried to turn motor and it was the same difficult to pull as before.

 

[hedge wood]

OK, after trying the motor again with no luck, I did what you said and pulled the spark plug. Spark plug was dry. Tried to turn motor and it was the same difficult to pull as before.

Make sure the handle on the hyd valve is in the neutral position and not in the detent retract position. I have found this a couple times when folks would call and couldn't get the motor to turn over and they would find the handle got bumped.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Make sure the handle on the hyd valve is in the neutral position and not in the detent retract position. I have found this a couple times when folks would call and couldn't get the motor to turn over and they would find the handle got bumped.

Thanks. I just checked and it appears to be on the neutral position. Never really touched it with the splitter off before but when I just touched it, it’s not moving much. But looks to be in the straight neutral position.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

One thing that I thought of is there was too much oil added during last oil change. I thought of that when I checked the oil last night for any gasoline smell and some oil spilled from the dipstick plug hole. Could overfilling the oil cause the issue with the motor not turning?
I’m assuming the timing of the issue point more towards the carburetor difficulties but but wanted to mention it.

 

[ericm979]

On many newer small industrial engines, "full" is either right up to the oil check/fill hole or close to it. Check the oil level per the manual and see. Also the engine needs to be level, it does not take much of a tilt to affect the oil level check.

Sometimes it's hard to tell what position the hydraulic spool lever is in by looking at it. Move it to the position that makes the ram extend and then back to neutral to be sure.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

On many newer small industrial engines, "full" is either right up to the oil check/fill hole or close to it. Check the oil level per the manual and see. Also the engine needs to be level, it does not take much of a tilt to affect the oil level check.

Sometimes it's hard to tell what position the hydraulic spool lever is in by looking at it. Move it to the position that makes the ram extend and then back to neutral to be sure.

I can’t move the lever at all. Not sure if this is bc splitter is off.

 

[ABMax24]

OK, after trying the motor again with no luck, I did what you said and pulled the spark plug. Spark plug was dry. Tried to turn motor and it was the same difficult to pull as before.

What did the spark plug look like? Was the electrode, black, dark brown, cardboard brown, or white?

I'm starting to think you have damage to the piston/cylinder

 

[brenndatomu]

I can’t move the lever at all. Not sure if this is bc splitter is off.

That's weird...you should be able to move the handle in both directions easily...are you sure its not stuck in the auto retract position?
Sometimes the valve auto return detent can really latch on to the spool if there is some wear on it

 

[Ctwoodtick]

What did the spark plug look like? Was the electrode, black, dark brown, cardboard brown, or white?

I'm starting to think you have damage to the piston/cylinder

The spark plug was black color but not much of it, if that makes sense.

 

[ABMax24]

The ground electrode is what I was wondering about.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

That's weird...you should be able to move the handle in both directions easily...are you sure its not stuck in the auto retract position?
Sometimes the valve auto return detent can really latch on to the spool if there is some wear on it

I’ve run the splitter a lot and, to my eye it’s in the neutral position. It looks straight to me, not in the forward or retract position. I ran the splitter last maybe 3 days ago. It didn’t run out of gas or anything that would make it likely that it would get stuck in a retract position. That said, anything I might try to see if I can get it unstuck?

 

[Ctwoodtick]

The ground electrode is what I was wondering about.

I put the spark plug back in the motor. I can take a better look at it tomorrow for exact color, especially on ground electrode and report back.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Ok, I think it’s fixed.
I went back out to the garage and gave the hydraulic lever a good tug and it came loose. I think it was getting gummed up with what ever grease is in that area. I was able to run the motor on it. I will give it a better test tomorrow and will report back.
Thank you everyone again for helping me through this.

 

[Jags]

If the handle was stuck in a retract position it would effectively hydraulically lock the motor causing it to be very difficult to turn over. I am guessing that is the problem with motor rotation. You may have already solved the first issue of low power by correctly re-connecting the govenor rod coming from the carb. Your new test results will be interesting.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Ran the splitter for about 10 minutes. Sounds good, the way it did a while back. I only had one rotted large round to split, which was not the best test. However, until I see otherwise, I’ll consider it back in good working order. Thank you again