Stack Fire #4

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kodpvd

Member
Nov 11, 2014
13
Kodiak, Alaska
I'm a long time lurker and a first time poster... Feel free to comment/bash/flame me all you want, I can take the heat (haha!)

I had my fourth stack fire this morning... I have a new NC-30 (installed this fall). I upgraded from a 1980's model Blaze King Princess for my 1,750-ish sqft. house. We had three stack fires with the BK and I decided that was enough and it was time to change from a 'smoke-dragon' to a 'clean-burning' wood stove.

Hindsight is almost 20/20 and I think the biggest problem with the BK was the bi-metal element on the control damper. I have a two-story open house with about 14' of stack going thru the open living area before it goes thru the ceiling to the outside. We've lived in the house for 16+ years. The original stack was 8" single-wall stack that lasted about 4 years. I would tap it with a stick to knock the creosote off the inside ooccasionally. It held up well till I brushed it and it looked like swiss-cheese. I replaced it and that stack lasted about 3 years, till I cleaned it and it was done. I purchased some higher quality, welded-seam single wall stove pipe from VentingPipe.com (Duravent brand). It was much better initially, but one night we can home and I cracked the door open to get a good draft and build the heat up in the fire. The stack caught fire and the stove pipe opened up along a seam. I closed the wood stove door, but couldn't contain the fire. The local volunteer fire department came and was able to extinguish it without ANY damage to the house. Thank you Jesus!

I replaced that stack and it was a few more years before our next stack fire. Again, we had about 12'-14' of single-wall in the living area and it allowed the smoke to cool down too quickly and create creosote (my assumption). I started a fire using cardboard and it got too hot, too quick. After that incident, I installed several feet of Metalbestos (double-wall) stack from the ceiling to about 4'-5' above the wood stove.

With these two fires, my wife had became leary of our stove and required me to run it very conservatively. One weekend when she was out of town, I opened the damper a little wider than usual and ran it a little hotter. Guess what happened? Another stack fire... After the second stack fire, I installed a garden hose in my mechanical room. I was able to extinguish the stack fire easily by cooling down the double-wall stack and hitting the burning coals with water. The steam caused the hot creosote to expand and fall into the firebox. Problem solved (for the most part). The next day I emptied the 'cool' ashes into a plastic bucket (yes, plastic, bad choice!) and put it in my enclosed entryway. I started a new fire in the stove and kept an eye on it. About a half-hour later, I noticed smoke particulates filling the room. I was investigating the wood stove and had my back to the door going into the entryway. I had a smoldering fire in my entryway. It burned thru the plastic bucket, the plastic container next to it and a stack of newspaper in the plastic container. LESSON LEARNED...

So that takes me to my decision to replace the BK Princess with a new EPA stove. I found the NC-30 at a local hardware store and read reviews of it here on Hearth.com. It seemed like it would do the trick, so I bought it and began the process of removing my 8" stack and replacing it with a 6" one. I completed the install late this summer and fired it for the first time in October. I am fairly pleased with it, but I still can't burn it very hot. My wife is sensitive to the smell of curing paint and how similar it smells to a stack fire. I've been burning the stove at the lower range of 'safe' at about 450f (or less) on the top and 300f (or less) 18" above the stove on the flue pipe. I can get the secondaries to fire when it's heating up, but they don't stay lit very long when I start to cut off the primary air. I'm burning spruce that has been seasoned for at least a year. The front glass is fogging up with creosote, so I know that it's not burning hot enough. I scrape the residue off with a razor blade. A couple weeks ago, I unscrewed the lower two sections of single-wall pipe off and checked them. They had a thin film of glazed creosote on them. This stove might be too much stove for our house. When it get's north of 72f on the thermostat 5' away from the stove, my wife says that its too hot. Understand that 72f downstairs is probably 74f-76f upstairs where she hangs out. I'm sure if I filled the stove and ran it hard, it would be somewhere around 90f, which would be great in my book...

The stack fire we had this morning was very small and occurred in the top 4'-5' of the double-wall stack before it goes thru the ceiling. I'm thinking that's probably the place where the smoke condenses the most and builds up the creosote quickest. I could put my hand on the outside of the pipe and feel it was very hot. We didn't see any flames, but other areas of the pipe were cooler to the touch. I though you couldn't have a stack fire with an EPA stove, because the flame route wouldn't put it in direct contact with the stove pipe. I guess I was wrong...

I'm sure you'll have questions, but here are mine:

Should I get a new smaller, stove?
How often do you clean your stack on your EPA stove?
Do you use any creosote-treatment in your EPA stove? If so, how often?
 
Should I get a new smaller, stove?
possibly What size house?

How often do you clean your stack on your EPA stove?
As often as you need to if run correctly you should be able to go a year easily

Do you use any creosote-treatment in your EPA stove? If so, how often?
If run correctly no you dont need it.

Honestly from your story I cant believe you haven't burnt your house down yet. You really seriously need to learn how to burn your stove correctly or find a different form of heat. Is your stack installed correctly now with class a chimney and proper clearances?
 
I'm sorry. But the stack talk is killing me. It's chimney and connecting pipe.

I clean my chimneys and connecting pipes annually. I've been burning my whole life (42 years young now) and have never had a chimney fire. This was with pre EPA stoves and now continues with my EPA stoves.

I've never used any sort of creosote treatments.

it reads to me like you are simply not burning hot enough. The max flue and stovetop temps you mention are to low. If secondary combustion isn't maintained you are not burning hot enough. On my PE summit I regularly see 700 stovetop and 500+ stovepipe on reloads while heating up. The stovetop is measured with a magnetic thermometer and the stovepipe is measured on single wall connecting pipe.
 
possibly What size house?


As often as you need to if run correctly you should be able to go a year easily


If run correctly no you dont need it.

Honestly from your story I cant believe you haven't burnt your house down yet. You really seriously need to learn how to burn your stove correctly or find a different form of heat. Is your stack installed correctly now with class a chimney and proper clearances?

Our house is 1750+ sqft; 1400 in the area that's directly heated by the stove and 350 in the rooms to the side of the stove.

Yes, the stack is installed per the instructions by Metalbestos. The stack goes directly up from the stove thru the ceiling/roof with the roof support kit and has another 3' length of stack outside. I am not close to to any combustible material with the single-wall portions and outside the minimums with the double-wall portions. I'm here to learn...
 
Yes, the stack is installed per the instructions by Metalbestos. The stack goes directly up from the stove thru the ceiling/roof with the roof support kit and has another 3' length of stack outside. I am not close to to any combustible material with the single-wall portions and outside the minimums with the double-wall portions. I'm here to learn...
ok well that is good.

Our house is 1750+ sqft; 1400 in the area that's directly heated by the stove and 350 in the rooms to the side of the stove.
That is not overly small for the 30 especially in alaska. can you explain to us how you run it? what temp do you run the stack up to before you shut it back? how far do you shut it back? What temp does it cruise at?
 
I'm sorry. But the stack talk is killing me. It's chimney and connecting pipe.
That is pretty common here even some pros use the term stack around here.
 
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ive heard the term but it would be extremely uncommon here. No ones called me to sweep their stack. i will admit. I'm highly irritable today for some reason. Lol. So carry on. I'll maybe make up a stack of flapjacks and see if that improves my mood. Or maybe I'll go stack some wood.<>
 
It is definitely possible to have a chimney fire while burning wood in an EPA stove. All it would take is to burn poorly seasoned wood and keep the stack temperatures low. Creosote accumulates when the flue gases can condense. The temperature when this occurs is below about 250F. The flue gas will cool as it rises higher in the stack. It will cool a lot once it hits the exterior portion of the chimney. So if the probe stack temp 18" above the stove is 300F and the fire is still producing a lot of gases, then the odds are that by the time those gases hit the cold chimney they are going to condense.

First thing to do is get the chimney thoroughly cleaned Then next, to check is the inner moisture level of the wood. This requires resplitting room temperature wood and then testing the moisture on the freshly exposed face of the wood. The third thing is to burn hotter. Get the stove paint baked in. Put a fan in window to blow the paint smell outside and time it if possible for when your wife won't be home. Then run the stove hot enough so that the flue gases stay above say 400F during the offgassing stage of the fire. Once the flames are done, a lower flue temp is ok, the wood is mostly done offgassing.

Another thing that can cool down flue gases is leaks. Make sure pipe joints are tight and there is a good seal a the flue collar. Probably not the issue here, but worth checking.
 
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Kodiak? Last time I was there the residents said that even 2 year wood was wet. Is your wood stored indoors? Dehumidifier?

Respectfully, it wasn't the old pre EPA BK Princess nor the NC 30 that you have now. It has to do a great deal with the ability to operate the stove at high enough burn rate (which you will like but the wife won't) to deal with the corresponding moisture content in your fuel load. If your wood is 15% m.c, then you can run lower than if your wood is 30% m.c., which is exceedingly common where you are.

There's a great deal of smart (sorry....experienced) help on the site, so I am certain you will benefit from their input.
 
Rereading this thread it sounds like this install has single-wall flue pipe. That is going to further contribute to cooling the flue gases. Single wall flue temps are read on the surface, not with a probe. The surface temp is lower. You'll want to maintain a surface flue temp of around 250-300 for the outgassing portion of the burn.
 
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bholler:
I usually run the stack to 300f before I shut it down... The stack usually is about 250f when it's running. I like to see the secondaries kick in, but they don't last that long at that low setting. I'm also only using two or three splits to get it started. They are stacked N-S with newspaper and 1/4" kindling between them. I stack some 1" kindling E-W on the top and that usually get's things going. I'm sure I'm running it too conservatively. Once things light off, I'll add a third split between the first two to capture the flames from them. I watched a Youtube video a while ago from a guy who ran his stove at full speed for a half hour... Based on my history, I'd freak out... My wife would be off the charts!

begreen:
I'm probably running it too low... In the next couple days I'll pull the single-wall stack and give it a good brushing from the bottom-up. I think my wood is pretty good. I didn't burn much last year due to the last stack fire and waiting to replace the stove. My routine is to bring it into the house and stack it in a small wood rack in the boiler room. I don't feel as bad burning diesel oil to heat my house, when I know that my firewood is being cooked in the process. I just got a moisture meter today from Amazon and my boiler-room dried spruce tests at 14%. Other seasoned wood in my workshop close to my Earthstove tests at 15%.

BKVP:
Yes, Kodiak is very wet and humid. I built a 'solar-kiln' style wood shed. Deck floor, plywood sides and translucent corrugated plexiglass roof. I stack all my freshly split wood in there for the summer and it comes out considerably lighter with less retained water. I agree that there are a bunch of very knowledgable folks here. I'm happy to be the recipient of the years of experience.

blacktail:
Yes, I'm trying really hard to eliminate the moisture from my wood as you can see above. As far as a fake account... I'm not sure someone would take the time to make this stuff up... Trust me, I take no pleasure in revealing my short-comings in life. As I opened with, I'm a long-time lurker, first time poster. I know that some people are going to think I'm a dumb-a$$, but that's the chance I take...

Thanks for the input! I'll report back soon...

P.S. I'm in my workshop where I'm enjoying the comfort of my small Earthstove running at 400f+. At least I get to enjoy some comfort from wood tonight!
 
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IMG_1253.JPG IMG_1254.JPG
Here's a couple photos of the install...
 
300F flue temp is way to cold to shut down on. Your wife is nervous about the stove but is creating a self fulfilling prophecy by not letting the stove and flue operate at appropriate temps. You have a beautiful place
 
300F flue temp is way to cold to shut down on. Your wife is nervous about the stove but is creating a self fulfilling prophecy by not letting the stove and flue operate at appropriate temps. You have a beautiful place

No, 300 surface temp means 600 internal temperature which is not the problem. If the man kept 300 surface temp all the time we would be okay.
 
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No, 300 surface temp means 600 internal temperature which is not the problem. If the man kept 300 surface temp all the time we would be okay.

You are right. Everything I've read here just screams to me too low of temps and excess buildup though. My flue never drops under 250 surface unless late into a burn at coaling stage
 
KimiBwoah:
I agree with the self fulfilling prophecy part! Thank you for the complement! I'll have to post a photo of our view...

Highbeam:
I'm using a Dewalt IR (laser) heat probe/gun to measure the temps. I had read somewhere that the outside temps were half of the inside temps?


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Nice place kodpvd. That short run of single-wall is not the issue here. Not sure what to say. Your reported surface stovepipe temps are fine, though I am not a firm believer in the 2x multiplier, more like 1.5x methinks. With wood that dry I can burn for all year and get a half cup of creosote with the year end cleaning. It looks like you are running right, except for a bit low on the stove top temp. Was the the flue cleaned well after the removal of the old BK?
 
begreen:
The entire stovepipe was replaced. I went from 8" down to 6" for the new stove. I'm planning on giving the pipe a good scrubbing this weekend and firing it up again.


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Sounds like you have done most everything right short of running the stove a bit cool.
 
First off . . . welcome to hearth.com.

Second . . . at first read I was thinking "Holy cow. I'm surprised this guy hasn't burned down the house. Maybe he should consider going with propane or oil." However, after reading the follow up responses I'm now thinking that this is simply a case where you need to run the stove a bit hotter and check/clean the chimney more frequently to insure that there isn't a large build up of creosote.

And please, please, please . . . do not put your ashes in a plastic pail and leave them on or near any combustibles. Best place to place ashes is a covered, metal pail outside away from anything that can catch on fire.

Also . . . dumping a large amount of water on to a fire in the stove/chimney can potentially damage the stove and/or chimney . . . just a fyi.

To answer your original questions . . . your stove may be too large (but I think I would keep it for now), I check and clean my chimney monthly (mostly because it is so easy to clean as I can do so from the ground) and I haven't used any special chemical treatment since the first year when I was given some stuff by a local woodstove dealer.
 
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I'm wondering how many burn spots are in that carpet...
 
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Welcome to hearth, you have to make some changes to the way you think your burning. First off, wood supply, (1) year seasoned spruce in Alaska? I don't think that's enough time to insure the splits are seasoned properly, especially ones with decent pitch in them.
Secondly this goes hand in hand with burning, your temps are to low and whats happening is that the non dried pitch is smoking off and the cooler flue gases are allowing it to condense in your chimney, giving you build up. Also running the stove at lower temps is resulting in a dirty burn which is killing the epa rating of the stove, kinda like having a 30hp lawn mower but keeping it at low throttle to mow the lawn.
I would suggest that you get a moisture meter and test your splits, I would give the chimney and cap a good brushing and then burn that stove hot and see what she's made of.
 
I would suggest that you get a moisture meter and test your splits, I would give the chimney and cap a good brushing and then burn that stove hot and see what she's made of.
He got one and wood seems fine, unless he didn't split them before testing. Spruce being a softwood it will season quickly, and it may have been cut dead anyways.