Stainless liner right into stove or do you use black pipe too?

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cycloxer

Minister of Fire
Jul 9, 2008
715
Worcester County, MA
So I am putting in my stainless liner for my Jotul Castine. I have a stainless block off plate at the top of the chimney and another 1" insulated block of plate at the top of my fireplace, below the damper. I am hearth mounting my stove. Should I run the stainless liner right through all of this and right into the top of the stove or should I use a piece of black pipe off of the stove? Also, do you have to seal the joints with anything?
 
you can run the liner right into the stove if it's in the hearth... For silicone, you should use mill pac, rtv will work but mill pac is the best
 
I thought folks used stove cement (available in most hardware stores) for the joint to the stove, if anything. It'll crack, but still fills the gap. Where do you find the mill pac silicone?
 
I am using Rutland stove cement for the joint at the stove and then Rutland Super Red 600 degree silicone sealant for the top cap and block off plates. I think I am going to run the liner right into the top of the stove and paint the coupler and last few inches with black stove paint and see how it looks. The joint will be way in the back of my fireplace. That way I have a full stainless setup. I do have a 12" black pipe that I can put in later if I don't like the look, but why add another joint if I don't have to?
 
I'm with you--ss and stove cement where it matters. Will you really see the ss pipe way in the back of your fireplace? I had an ugly coupler and I just cut a little square of sheet steel, painted it (high temp) black and set it back in there....

Where the liner went through the block-off--I just stuffed some of the leftover rock-wool in there to give it a little room to expand/contract--everywhere else I would use HT silicone.
 
My installer wraped the flexliner with black stove pipe, it serves no purpose other than cosmetics to hide the ss liner and it looks great and avoids another joint.
My castine is also on the hearth, top conection, so we are only talking about 8'' of visable ss liner that is wraped.
 
Yeah I am going to do the same thing. I'd rather keep my system fully stainless from top to bottom with as few joints as possible. The top of my stove is 29" and the top of my opening is 35". So I am really only talking about 6" of visible pipe at the back of the fireplace. I'll probably be the only one who ever looks at the pipe anyway, lol.

I mounted my lower block off plate as low as possible into the hearth. You can see the 1" thick foil backed insulation plate that I am fitting.
 

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Here are some more installation pictures. I have a Gelco stainless cap across the old chimney flu. Below that is the stainless liner block off plate which secures the liner and seals the top of the chimney. Then the 6" liner runs about 14' down through my chimney. I removed the damper plate and put it in storage. You can see the stainless liner into the hearth. Then I split the lower 475-FRK lower block off plate down the middle for ease of installation and future maintenance. It is pretty much ready for the stove which will go in on Wednesday.
 

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Hi, could you share some more info about how you constructed your lower block off plate?

Thanks
 
I was told you do not need a lower block off in chimney, just the upper one since there is not that much airspace in the chimney once the pipe goes up there etc plus the pipe is going to warm the chimney space. HOpe that is right since that is what they did.
 
Well you don't have to seal off anything if you don't want to. It is a matter of how well you want your chimney to draft and how much energy you want to conserve. Here is how it breaks out:

Sealing off the top of the chimney prevents any heat from escaping from the house and prevents any water from getting into the original flue. Adding a chimney cap prevents water from going down your liner.

Now a block off plate at the bottom of your chimney does a few things. It seals off the chimney from the house. So you don't have any heat from inside the house going up your chimney and you don't have any smells from any remaining soot. It also creates a dead air space between the liner and your chimney wall. This dead air acts as an insulating layer similar as to how a sweater makes you warm due to the air it traps. If you don't use a block off plate at the bottom, then you have to pay to heat your chimney 24/7. Why would you want to do that? You can take this one step further and insulate your liner as well. It is all a matter of how well your chimney drafts.
 
I originally used Owens Corning 475-FRK which is a 1" thick foil backed insulation board with an R value of 4. The problem with this duct board is that it is not really rated for this application. The fiberglass will not burn, but the adhesive used for the foil backing could be more problematic. Ironically I was given this board by the stove shop. So I have since switched to Roxul Rockboard RHT 60 which also has an R value of 4 per inch, but it is also rated to 1,200 degrees F.
 
cycloxer said:
I originally used Owens Corning 475-FRK which is a 1" thick foil backed insulation board with an R value of 4. The problem with this duct board is that it is not really rated for this application. The fiberglass will not burn, but the adhesive used for the foil backing could be more problematic. Ironically I was given this board by the stove shop. So I have since switched to Roxul Rockboard RHT 60 which also has an R value of 4 per inch, but it is also rated to 1,200 degrees F.

Where can the Roxul be purchased? Lowes, Home Depot? It looks like it would be easier to work with than metal for my situation.
 

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