Stihl 028 WB

This was my neighbors saw that I grabbed tonight coming out of the woods, when I tried starting this about one year ago it did not start.

Once I was back at the house I cleaned the spark plug then put some fresh gas in, it took off after the first fart. I did check the air filter which was good but I plan on a good cleaning with the air compressor.

Does anyone have the RPM's setting for this saw?

zap

I think it is 12.5K Ken

Thanks Ken. Not that I needed another saw but this was my neighbors who sold us all the land. What would you use to clean it after I take the air compressor to it?

zap

WD-40

I wouldn't, but if I were so inclined I'd use WD-40

I would remove the filter and separate the two halves.I would use carburetor cleaner and spray if from the inside to the filter to the outside.Ken

Easy with the compressor. Generally soak it with brake or carb clean from the inside out after you separate the halves. Set your air regulator for 20-30 psi and go easy. Your just drying it out, not trying to force the material off the filter. Repeat until clean.

send me your e mail and i will send you the service manual. max is 12,000 rpm

Rob
rsporter@tds.net

If I want to pull the muffler so I can clean in that area am I asking for trouble.

What is the metal piece below the oil cap?

zap

Did a big cleaning tonight, I think it was the first time it had the air compressor taken to it or even cleaned.

zap

A few more pics. I stillhave more cleaning under the muffler. I think tomorrow night I'll put the tac on it.

zap

Didn't look too bad to begin with Zap.

i would say 90% of the saws I get are far, far worse off than that.

Is this the correct way?

zap

Question on compression testing, should the saw be warmed up, what position should the master control lever be in an after you hook up the compression tester then pull should you clear the line on the compression tester each time?

The first picture is with the throttle wide open on seven pulls, the second picture is the throttle closed on seven pulls.



zap

Saw should be stone cold, throttle and choke wide-open. Use a zip tie to hold the throttle wide-open. Pull until the gauge no longer builds pressure but pressure should build rapidly and plateau suddenly. You can repeat the test with the saw warmed up to see the effect of heat/expansion and oil-sealing but the real number is with it cold. (If it won't make enough comp cold, you'll never get it started in the first place.)

MasterMech, thanks for the info. I tested it on a cold engine with the throttle wide open & off, seven pulls maxed out the compression both ways.

zap

Looks/Sounds good!