nay, gas condensing furnace cools the exhaust below 212*f so to extract more heat from flugas involving a MH like operation. Youre thinking of a direct vent DV burner ithinxspirilis said:One that uses the exhaust heat to preheat the combustion intake air (not the whole friggin' room), aye?~*~vvv~*~ said:duh, whats a condensing furnace?DAKSY said:+1 to Backwoods Savage's comment - Pay no attention....
+2...& I'm waiting to see if he suggests using the MH on VF in the Gas Forum... :roll:
stove pipe heat reclaimers
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~*~vvv~*~ said:nay, gas condensing furnace cools the exhaust below 212*f so to extract more heat from flugas involving a MH like operation. Youre thinking of a direct vent DV burner ithinxspirilis said:One that uses the exhaust heat to preheat the combustion intake air (not the whole friggin' room), aye?~*~vvv~*~ said:duh, whats a condensing furnace?DAKSY said:
+2...& I'm waiting to see if he suggests using the MH on VF in the Gas Forum... :roll:
It doesn't really matter because it's a moot point. Gas furnaces produce 2 main exhaust outputs, CO2 and H2O, otherwise known as carbon dioxide, and water (in the vapor form). Gas furnaces DON'T produce creosote and they don't rely on a good draft to burn properly because they typically have a combustion blower.
Wood burning appliances produce more than just CO2 and H2O, they produce creosote along with lots of other by-products.
The lesson learned here? The exhaust of gas burning appliances can be cooled (even to the point that the H2O vapor condenses) without hampering proper functioning of the appliance. OTHO, the exhaust of wood-burning appliances cannot be cooled to a point even near that, only a small amount of cooling can be permitted to take place before creosote begins to form; after a while of creosote formation your flue will begin to be blocked off, and your draft will diminish.
You're welcome for the basic lesson of how gas vs. wood furnaces function. Anything else you would like to learn today?
Well, that didn't take long. I think all that is helpful to the OP has been said. End of yet another MH thread.. Bottom line is that sometime a MH might work, but basically it's an expensive bandaid treating the symptoms and not the root problem. A key damper can often be as effective in controlling strong draft and a whole lot less expensive.
Please, folks, save bits, bytes and bandwidth by not quoting long threads!
Either learn how to edit what is between the quote tags or simply use fast reply..........
I think the original poster asked this question looking for answers.....they are here in the thread, I'm sure! But they can be hard to find.
Let me repeat, though, that a lot of non-EPA stoves I have seen have exceeding high stack temps.......I have even seen flame reaching up the chimney in some of these!
With so many variables it is impossible to give a yes or no answer to many wood burning questions. However, reality rears it's ugly head - many newer stoves go into a fireplace - or into a nice living area, where it is either impossible to use such an exchanger or it does not fit the lifestyle.
But the ironic thing about this thread is that I would be MORE likely to suggest an external HE with a overheated newer non-cat than with an old smoke belcher (classic stove, to many!).
Even to this day, many non-cats are not being designed for total efficiency INTO THE HOME. That is, they are being designed for price (many) and to pass the EPA requirements. This is starting to change based on various forces, including educated customers and federal requirement for the rebates (must be high efficiency).....but even some of those requirements are a bit fuzzy.
I'd say, in summary, that those who don't have a non-cat with a floored (900+) thermometer on the stovepipe should probably dismiss the idea of an external HE. There are other considerations too, such as the original price of the HE, the electric used and the possibility of building up some more corrosive elements further up the chimney due to the cooling of flue gases.
Either learn how to edit what is between the quote tags or simply use fast reply..........
I think the original poster asked this question looking for answers.....they are here in the thread, I'm sure! But they can be hard to find.
Let me repeat, though, that a lot of non-EPA stoves I have seen have exceeding high stack temps.......I have even seen flame reaching up the chimney in some of these!
With so many variables it is impossible to give a yes or no answer to many wood burning questions. However, reality rears it's ugly head - many newer stoves go into a fireplace - or into a nice living area, where it is either impossible to use such an exchanger or it does not fit the lifestyle.
But the ironic thing about this thread is that I would be MORE likely to suggest an external HE with a overheated newer non-cat than with an old smoke belcher (classic stove, to many!).
Even to this day, many non-cats are not being designed for total efficiency INTO THE HOME. That is, they are being designed for price (many) and to pass the EPA requirements. This is starting to change based on various forces, including educated customers and federal requirement for the rebates (must be high efficiency).....but even some of those requirements are a bit fuzzy.
I'd say, in summary, that those who don't have a non-cat with a floored (900+) thermometer on the stovepipe should probably dismiss the idea of an external HE. There are other considerations too, such as the original price of the HE, the electric used and the possibility of building up some more corrosive elements further up the chimney due to the cooling of flue gases.
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