Stove pipe installation

[intimadatorsquizz]

I'm installing a wood/coal stove in my garage. I need to know how far out the wall to go to past the 1' overhang my roof has and also how high past the roof does it have to go? The roof it slanted the high end is 12' sloping to 10' and the 10' is where the stove will be. I don't want to take the pipe thru the roof. I want to go thru the wall. Also the outside of my garage wall has vinyl siding . Does that matter? I'm putting cement board on the inside walls behind the stove. Will that be ok to do?


Thanks in advance

 

[tiber]

I'm installing a wood/coal stove in my garage. I need to know how far out the wall to go to past the 1' overhang my roof has and also how high past the roof does it have to go? The roof it slanted the high end is 12' sloping to 10' and the 10' is where the stove will be. I don't want to take the pipe thru the roof. I want to go thru the wall. Also the outside of my garage wall has vinyl siding . Does that matter? I'm putting cement board on the inside walls behind the stove. Will that be ok to do? Thanks in advance

No solid fuel appliances allowed in garages per national fire code.

That being said, cement board is the correct material you want to use for wall shields, and they must have a one inch gap on all sides (including behind) and be supported with some sort of nonflammable support. I prefer steel studs from home depot.

The thimble kit comes with a "square" piece which is the "outside" part, and there's a metal piece which is the passthrough. Just ensure the siding doesnt' touch the metal tube which clads the pipe.

How far out does it need to go? It needs two inches clearance to combustable surfaces. How high? 2ft above anything within a 10ft circle of it, and three ft above the roof penetration. At least 15ft tall, since it sounds like you're going to have elbows involved and whatever else, longer is typically better.

 

[intimadatorsquizz]

Sorry i forgot to mention that the garage is framed with metal studs.

Just so i under stand i need to come out the wall 2' down the from overhang? Then up and past the overhang 2'? Then 3' up past the roof?

this is the inside

 

[tiber]

The reason why I'm still entertaining this is because a steel shed isn't a garage. It sounds like you've got a shed you put up. If it's a shed, call it a shed. The moment you say "garage", you match a no-no in the fire code. So for all intents and purposes if it's not labeled "garage" on some plan somewhere, it's a big shed. I only know this because I live up the road from you (audubon, PA, I work in Horsham, PA so I drive by) and the townships are pricks about it.

So this isn't a simple answer, nothing ever is. You come through the wall, treat that as one task. Then you meet a T and go up, treat that as one task. Then you need to somehow come out past the overhang so you have two inches of clearance from the overhang. Treat that as one task. Then you just need to go up two feet above anything in a 10 ft radius. I'll plug my blog here - http://knarrnia.wordpress.com/2010/09/26/woodstove-install/ - that's my garage as of two weeks ago. You're going to look like something similar, but outside. Unfortuantely if you have any hope of getting it to pass code, there's an obligation to minimize the horizontal run, so you can't just go from a wall thimble to the outer edge of the roof in one section.

I figured it all out by sitting down with VentingPipe.com and the duravent manual and just drawing, and drawing, and drawing, and drawing....
http://www.duravent.com/docs/instruct/L150_Apr10.pdf <= duravent manual.

 

[intimadatorsquizz]

Funny you say Shed since we added the garage to the shed. the building is 33x40 total. I'm not worried about code as far as the township knowing about it. I do want it to be safe. Here is a link to my garage build. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56227

 

[tiber]

Looks like the whole things a shed to me.

It looks like your roof is the same as my roof in my garage (two 1/2" sheets of plywood with shingles on top). I know you just put in the roof on your shed, but given that the angle of the roof isn't particularly severe and you can save a couple hundred dollars simply by avoiding the elbows in your case, I would suggest a straight up through the roof pipe for the shed. You'd do a lot better on cost and the through-the-ceiling kit is cheaper than a thimble kit and then an elbow kit.

 

[intimadatorsquizz]

I was thinking the same about going thru the ceiling, but we're trying to avoid that. I was just looking at some of the prices for the stuff and i see it's expensive. The good thing is I'm getting the stove for free from my uncle. And guess what he lives in Autobon..lol
I did score the stove piping for the inside fpr $20.00 on craigslist. I'm doing a side job on a chevelle so i'll have money to but the piping for outside hopefully.

 

[SteveKG]

I don't blame you for wanting to avoid cutting thru the roof and etc., but I contend that, in the long run, it'll be less expensive. Or that would be my guess, without drawing it out and pricing components. Also easier and simpler to secure the chimney. Less time as well.

And, no, you don't need to keep the chimney pipe two feet from the roof edge but two inches.

 

[intimadatorsquizz]

Cool thanks for the info.