Summers Heat 55-SHP10L Shuts off after 15 minutes

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hearthtools

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This is the info the property Management gave me
she said she had a few chimney sweeps work on it and they cant figure it out.
I have never worked on one for they are not normally sold in this area.

55-SHP10L they bought it in 2004 and looking at the website this is the cutoff date for the change in control board and how it work
because it could be a 2003 stove.

I have to drive 45 miles to work on this stove and make sure I have the correct info.
they say the stove starts up and in about 10 to 15 minutes it shuts off.
could not tell me if the feed stops or it just shuts off.

Any pointers before I drive out?
 
hearthtools said:
This is the info the property Management gave me
she said she had a few chimney sweeps work on it and they cant figure it out.
I have never worked on one for they are not normally sold in this area.

55-SHP10L they bought it in 2004 and looking at the website this is the cutoff date for the change in control board and how it work
because it could be a 2003 stove.

I have to drive 45 miles to work on this stove and make sure I have the correct info.
they say the stove starts up and in about 10 to 15 minutes it shuts off.
could not tell me if the feed stops or it just shuts off.

Any pointers before I drive out?

First thing check the Error Codes on control board. Their website lists them. http://englanderstoves.com/help/PelletStove/index.html

1-800-245-6489 is the tech support number. They will ask for Model number, serial number, and date of manufacture which are listed on a metal plate probably located under hopper lid. Good luck.
 
Thanks
I printed that stuff out to take with me
Just going 45 miles out and dont want to make a second trip.
With most stoves this problem would be the Low limit switch
but i dont think this stove has a low limit switch
 
There is a heat sensor that's mounted to the back of the fire box to obviously sense heat. If this isn't working it will shut the stove down between 20-30 mins after startup.

The vacuum switch that monitors the exhaust could have a broken hose, clogged hose, clogged connection or be bad. The exhaust blower could have a loose wire or be dead. Unfortunatley you're going to need to troubleshoot it in person to know what part(s) you may need.

Hope this is of some use.
 
Please let us know what you find when you work on it so we can hopefully benefit from your experience.
 
Went out Tuesday
worked on it from 4Pm to 7:30 pm

I never seen or worked on this kind of stove before.
what a pain in the A$$ getting to the components because you can only remove the back panel and the little panel for the combustion blower.

Heavy Black soot build up in the firebox.

A chimney sweep was there 3 time before me and could not figure it out.

I Started out with the basics and pulled the stove apart and cleaned the stove and pipe
Out the wall and up.

Pipe through the wall was half full of ash
the installers used a 90 and a horizontal cap for a vertical termination OUT THE ROOF ?? so the 90 at the top was full of ash.

I pulled the combustion blower out and it was clean inside the chamber. She said the sweep pulled it out when he was there.
but he never cleaned the pipe?

the Baffle plate was never pulled off the stove and had ash but not too bad.

They had 1 1/2” galv hard pipe for out side are. it had 2 x 90’s in it for some reason and it has some pellets in it so im sure it was restricting air into the stove.

All the vacuum tubes were Dried up and cracked were it made the connections
Ignitor was bad. So I replaced it with a Travis ignitor I had all I had to do was take the elliment out of the Travis tube and mount.

Below the burn pot grate was full of ash and PELLETS (where the air comes up)

Started up the stove and worked great for 20 minutes. But the Room air blower came on Very low and was making some noise
I started checking the setting for the 3 lower trims. when I pushed the ON AIR temp it was set to 1 I moved it up to 5 and the blower came on higher and sounded like normal

I started checking the other trims and the Low feed air was set to 9
the Low feed rate was set to 9
She said when she had the problem at first the stove would not run on low the feed rate on low seemed like mediem
so I changed the Low feed rate to 3

Just when I was getting it dialed in the LOWER auger motor started making noise and stoped feeding.
ONLY THE TOP AUGER was feeding.
CRAP.
I took the back panel off and removed the NOW VERY HOT lower auger motor and pluged it in with a test plug
NO GOOD TRYING TO TURN BUT JUST GETTING HOT.

Replaced the auger motor with a Merkle Korf.
Started it up noticed REVERSE ROTATION. (WHY THE HELL DO YOU GUYS DO THAT?)
Now that both auger motors are JAMMED up against each other I could not get to the set screw.
So I was able to get the top auger out
then I just removed the STACK on the lower motor and flipped it over to change rotation.

Put it back together and worked just fine.
Flame looked good and it stayed running for the 20 more minutes I stayed around.
she said the fire looked better than before.

So it was a combo of dirty
Bad lower auger motor
and some jack ass changing Trim rates.

WHAT IS THE CORRECT TRIM rates for this kind of install
Out the wall and up 10 feet
3200 feet elevation
Pine pellets
 
Hey hearthtools..great report...I hope my Techs are as thorough as you when I need help.(although I will be only a few miles from help). seems to come back to the 3 "Cs" of Pellet Stove Maintenance...cleaning cleaning cleaning!!
 
Factory settings for 55-SHP10 (no "L" on mine, manufactured 8/05) are 6-4-1. I know some people have lowered theirs to make it run better on low settings. This sounds like the poster stove for cleaning your stove on a regular basis. Damn, that had to be frustrating.
 
Thanks for the info Rod, and Panhandler is correct with the settings.
 
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