Summit Pedestal OAK has poor sealing?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

GeneralBill

Member
Sep 30, 2009
92
Western OR
After taking a lot of time to ensure the pedestal base had little to no air leakage at the bottom, I noticed quite the variety of air holes around the pedestal side! There is even a knockout on the front, I do not know why, but the stamped slits add to the other holes/slits to make a definite air connection between the outside and the inside. I plan on sealing as much as possible.

For this reason, I wish I bought the Summit Classic. The Classic also has the looks, but it seemd like the top of it would not heat water well. We get power outages that make a cooking surface valuable. The cast iron version has heating surfaces, but it didn't look like there was a good high-heat section.

Anyone else deal with the air leakage?

Thanks,

Bill
 
How is this a problem? A little fresh air into the room is good.
 
Bill, the outside air connection is not a sealed system on this stove. But just to be sure, does the stove already have an outside air kit attached?

The cast iron Alderlea trivet tops swing away to expose the hot stove top. On that surface, it will boil water quickly. If you want low hear, put the pot on the trivet top, over the stove top. If you want to keep food warm, raise bread dough or dry out mittens, swing the trivet outward and place on trivet.
 
LLigetfa said:
How is this a problem? A little fresh air into the room is good.

Two things, but to keep this in perspective, neither are that big of a deal since the total leakage is probably just several square inches.

1) Since there is an OAK, I want the supply air to come from the outside. Six square inches of leakage compares highly to the 12 sq in of the kit. In fact the 12 inches is less due to duct resistance.
2) When the stove is not in use, I do not want yet another leak in this old house.

I'm thinking that the duct extension below the house will help both of these. I would most like that great OAK valve that another has made, but project time is a bit low these days.

Thanks,

Bill
 
BeGreen said:
Bill, the outside air connection is not a sealed system on this stove. But just to be sure, does the stove already have an outside air kit attached?

The cast iron Alderlea trivet tops swing away to expose the hot stove top. On that surface, it will boil water quickly. If you want low hear, put the pot on the trivet top, over the stove top. If you want to keep food warm, raise bread dough or dry out mittens, swing the trivet outward and place on trivet.

For the pedestal, there was no attaching to be done. The pedestal sits on a flat surface that has a hole in it. Air comes up from the crawlspace and into the pedestal volume where it gets routed to the fire box.

My plan is to add a 4" duct under the crawlspace (which will someday be floorboard insulated in addition to the perimeter insulation).

Glad to hear the Alderlea boils well as I hope the Summit will when needed.

- Bill
 
Bill_in_CV said:
LLigetfa said:
How is this a problem? A little fresh air into the room is good.
1) Since there is an OAK, I want the supply air to come from the outside. Six square inches of leakage compares highly to the 12 sq in of the kit. In fact the 12 inches is less due to duct resistance.
Usually the air pressure outside would be greater than the pressure inside so when the stove is in use, it should consume 100% outside air and only that outside air which is surplus to needs would leak into the house. As Martha would say, "this is a good thing". Better to supply air to the home close to the stove where it will be warmed quickly and not be an uncomfortable draft. The only time I see it as a problem is when the stove is not in use and a positive shutoff would help with that. In fact having that leak would allow you to shut off the OAK prior to the fire going out, allowing the tail end of the burn to use indoor air.

You have easy access to the OAK so it would not be hard to install a damper. I would think a sliding plate in or under the pedestal that works like a guillotine should be a quick and easy install.

Sealing the pedestal would not mitigate the issue of the draft drawing on the OAK constantly when the stove is cold.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.