Teach me how to use a moisture meter

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2fireplacesinSC

Burning Hunk
Feb 24, 2015
168
mid South Carolina
ok, school me on how to use the moisture meter please.

Do I trust the meter reading that comes out when I put the prongs in the wood?

Or

Do I calculate the number by (MM reading) / (MM read + 100) ?

If I do the second method then 34% on my MM would actually be 25.4% and might be acceptable to burn. Which moisture content "reading" is being referred to by all of you guys, the manufacturer, etc.

Thanks in advance. (I feel sure this has been asked/answered but could not find it over a few days of searching, so please overlook the noob)
 
that depends on you meter read the instructions. are you testing on a fresh split face? Also 25.4% will not burn very well at all
 
I purchased a $20 moisture meter off amazon. No significant instructions except to turn it on, push pins in the wood and obtain a reading.

MD-812 LCD Display Digital Wood Moisture Meter for Wood

It is accurate +/- 1% from 5-40% moisture.

Is the reading it gives adequate or do I need to calculate another number to get to what is the true moisture content (not considering wood species, temp, etc since I don't have any of that in my instructions).

Thanks.
 
To me the idea of using a moisture meter is so I don't
have to use MATH to get a moisture reading
Cheep meters are accurate enough for firewood unless way out of whack .
I have a very expensive one I use in lumber destine to be furniture
as we only use lumber in the 6 to 8 % range and a 25$ one for firewood
 
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You should be able to just take the number it gives you. If you google the part you can find instructions and reviews.
 
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Proper MM use:

Take a piece of wood and split in half to get fresh face close to the (former) middle of the wood. Press prongs as far into fresh face (never end grain) as far as practical, in three locations. Those locations should be the middle of the split, and close to either end. Prong vs. grain orientation is not critical, as long as you're in long grain, not end grain. Average the three numbers (end, middle, end) together, as it will vary thru the length of the split.


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Thanks everyone for your input.

I'm apparently overthinking this.

Questions this has lead me to though:
Does wet weight vs dry weight of the wood come in here somewhere? Didn't the epa use a different type of moisture content analysis that makes their numbers slightly different when considering burn efficiency of the wood? I'm thinking I had read somewhere that the way the epa figured moisture content for woodstoves was different than just taking it off a moisture meter.
 
Does wet weight vs dry weight of the wood come in here somewhere? Didn't the epa use a different type of moisture content analysis that makes their numbers slightly different when considering burn efficiency of the wood? I'm thinking I had read somewhere that the way the epa figured moisture content for woodstoves was different than just taking it off a moisture meter.
Yes you could do that but it is allot more complicated and honestly you don't need that much accuracy. I have a meter but really never use it I go by feel and sound. That and just knowing how long it takes to dry certain woods the way I stack and split in my area. There really is no need to over think it.
 
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I also go by feel and sound as well as looks. Dry splits are light, and when banged together give off a hollow sound. Wet splits just go thud

even you most stubborn of drying wood will be dry in 2 years max if placed in a sunny wind exposed area. As you build your wood pile, your 2 year plus old wood you just know will be good for the upcoming winter.

A moisture meter is still handy to keep around though. For those splits ( and piles in my case) you sorta lose track of.
 
Thanks everyone for your input.

I'm apparently overthinking this.

Questions this has lead me to though:
Does wet weight vs dry weight of the wood come in here somewhere? Didn't the epa use a different type of moisture content analysis that makes their numbers slightly different when considering burn efficiency of the wood? I'm thinking I had read somewhere that the way the epa figured moisture content for woodstoves was different than just taking it off a moisture meter.

Yes, you are overthinking this, for the purpose of wood burning. You don't need a super accurate measurement, and a resistance-based meter will not give very accurate numbers without correcting for temperature and species, anyway. You just want to know if it's 15% or 25%. The reason for checking middle and ends is not to determine MC% at +/- 1%, but to ensure you don't have one end or a middle at 30% when the other end reads a happy 18%.

A MM is a very handy tool for someone new to wood burning, with wood not quite well seasoned. A few years in, if you're like most of us, you'll never use it again.


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A MM is a very handy tool for someone new to wood burning, with wood not quite well seasoned. A few years in, if you're like most of us, you'll never use it again.

Agree with this very muchly.

Also, at -30dF your moisture meter is going to read "zero % MC" if you stick it any board no matter how wet or dry it is.

I keep my garage at +55dF, looked it up for my inexpensive MM. On mine I need to add "1%" to whatever is displayed on the screen to get from the reading at the +55dF I am at to the +70dF the meter is calibrated for.

When I bring a piece in from the cold it will read 0%. After 24 hours it will read 18%, after 48 hours it will read 23-24% and stay there.

Imagine an oven dried split at 4.000 pounds and 0.000% MC. Stick it in a ziplock bag with a pound of water for a few days. Now you have a five pound stick that is four pounds of wood and one pound of water- you just made the thing in your home lab, right?

So if you divide the one pound weight of water by the four pounds weight of DRY wood you get 25%MC - DRY basis.

Same stick, two minutes later, divide the 1 pound of water by the five pounds of WET wood you got and you'll calculate 20%MC WET basis. Its all in the denominator.
 
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I finally found the post that I had in the back of my mind on this. I never could find it in the wiki's either. Chalk it up to a noob I guess. Thanks everyone for your input. Very helpful.

I have about 3 cords c/s/s with around 2.5 cords of that will be around 16 months seasoned when time to use. I've been checking the moisture content and most of it seems just right. I've got a lot of oak reading 19% (freshly split) on the meter already, but some larger splits that read 24-32%. As I looked at those numbers on my oak, I had a post I'd read last year pop up in my mind but never could find it till now. Your input helped to clarify what I was already noting though - feel, sound, and known time in the sun/wind/heat is the real basis for knowing it'll be ready to burn.


https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/wet-vs-dry-moisture-content.61975/

=============================================
Battenkiller, Jan 10, 2011

Battenkiller

Minister of Fire

There are different ways of expressing moisture content, which don't at all have to do with the method of determining them. The EPA test loads are Douglas fir that is between 16 and 20% wet-basis. That is expressed by taking the weight of the water present and dividing it by the weight of the entire split. Your moisture meter is calibrated for Doug fir as well, but the calculations done by the chip inside of it (or the width of the scale divisions if you are using an analog meter) are done using the dry-basis method of expressing moisture content. That is expressed by taking the weight of the water and dividing it by the weight of the dry fiber that would be present in the wood after all the water has been theoretically driven out (as would be done in a 215º oven in a lab).

Naturally, you get very different numbers, and this effect grows increasing more substantial as MC rises. It's a mathematical thing, and has nothing to do with the actual wood, which always has the same amount of water in it.

If you want a real easy way to convert dry-basis meter readings to the wet-basis used by the EPA tests, just divide the number on the meter by that same number plus 100, and you will get the correct wet-basis MC every time.

For example, the meter says the wood is 25% MC. Add 100 to 25, then divide that number (125) by the original reading. 25/125 = 20% MC wet-basis. The high end of the EPA test range... perfect for you stove.

In another case, the meter says the wood is 19% MC. Add 100 to 19, then divide that number (119) by the original reading. 19/119 = 16% MC wet-basis. The low end of the EPA test range... perfect for your stove.

As far as a definite cutoff number, I don't believe it exists. The way you load the stove, the type of wood, the way the wood is split, the amount of coals in there, the internal stove temps, the timing and size of wood additions, the strength of your draft.... all things that can and sometimes do have a more profound effect on the burn then just MC and draft opening. For me, the theoretical cutoff is 25% MC wet-basis (33% MC on the meter). That's 5% more water in the wood than the maximum allowable MC in the EPA test loads. Above that, you will likely have a progressively harder time burning your wood without micro-managing the stove.​
 
ok, school me on how to use the moisture meter please.

Do I trust the meter reading that comes out when I put the prongs in the wood?

Or

Do I calculate the number by (MM reading) / (MM read + 100) ?

If I do the second method then 34% on my MM would actually be 25.4% and might be acceptable to burn. Which moisture content "reading" is being referred to by all of you guys, the manufacturer, etc.

Thanks in advance. (I feel sure this has been asked/answered but could not find it over a few days of searching, so please overlook the noob)
Take a fresh split, jab the prongs in the middle as deep as they will go. Read the display. That's your MC.
 
As for dry method vs wet, IMO, this distinction has done nothing but create confusion when discussing meters. Meters are calibrated at dry method. Just use the damn thing and if it's 20 - 25% or less, then burn it. Period. (The wood, not the meter LOL)
I purchased a $20 moisture meter off amazon. No significant instructions except to turn it on, push pins in the wood and obtain a reading.
MD-812 LCD Display Digital Wood Moisture Meter for Wood

This is a perfectly good meter, but be careful with how much force you use with it. I broke mine (same model) at the bulkhead after a few months of use. I didn't think I was using too much force. You don't need to bury the pins much. My new one has thinner needles and can go further in with less force and has lasted three years now, although now that I'm three years stocked up, I use it much less. If you have to get new wood every year, it's more important.

I agree that you don't need to be anal about the accuracy. If it says <25%, you're good to go. But shoot for more like 20%. I've noticed a difference between 20 and 25. But my absolute limit is 25 unless I mix in some super dry splits which can help some.
 
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My new one has thinner needles and can go further in with less force and has lasted three years now, although now that I'm three years stocked up, I use it much less. If you have to get new wood every year, it's more important.

what do you have now?
 
This one: http://www.banggood.com/Mini-Wood-Moisture-Meter-MD816-Wood-Moisture-Tester-p-928551.html

I can't speak for the vendor, but the pic shows how small the device is. I love this form factor. You just stick the pins and then push the button for a second or two. I found it much more convenient than the first one I had.
You had the console model, before?

th?id=OIP.M04c0b839e49a4c175cba2ecef4298ce4o0&pid=15.1&P=0&w=300&h=300.jpg


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I'd post that one in the boiler room, for the fastest response.
 
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