Thoughts on cleaning a Jotul Castine

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Ski-Patroller

Member
Sep 23, 2013
73
Govenment Camp, OR
After a snafu removing the baffle from our Castine, I spent more time studying the exploded view of the stove, and reading all the comments about it here in Hearth.com. I have several suggestions and conclusions.

1. If at all possible don't install this stove in a location where the top cannot be removed.
2. Before using the stove remove the 2 bolts that hold the top on. It is easier to to it then.
3. If you have to do it later, you can either reach up over the baffle, or remove the baffle through the front of the stove. Taking it out is not terribly difficult, but I think getting it back in properly through the front is very difficult, if not impossible due to the three gaskets that must be installed correctly.
4. After you clean the flue, lift the top off the stove and vacuum out the area over the baffle.
5. If you want to remove the baffle this is the time to do it. I would not take it out, unless you have spare gasket material (two sizes) or unless you won't need the stove before you can purchase gaskets. They may be fine and go right back together, but if they are damaged you will probably need gasket cement to keep them in place during assembly.
6. The gasket for the top was in great shape on my stove. In any event it would be easy to repair or replace, even if you had to do it a little latter. I don't think a small air leak at the top would have big effect on performance.
7. The reason I don't like putting the baffle back in from the front, is that there are two short gaskets that go on top of the top plate side inlets. You can't see these when the baffle is installed and would be difficult to install the baffle without damaging the gasket. The big gasket isn't a problem, but the small ones are.

Incidentally I now recommend sweeping the flue (assuming a straight shot down the flue into the stove) with the baffle in place. I have a 24' flue, and when I ran the brush into the stove, the connector (pipe coupling) caught on something and I had to come down the ladder and shove the brush up into the flue from the firebox. I don't know why jiggling it around did not free it, but it didn't. Leaving the baffle in prevents this problem since the brush can't go all the way into the firebox. You can always lift the baffle out after cleaning the flue, to finish cleaning the inside of the stove.
 
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Yes, one more recommendation. If you are top flue connecting this stove, install a section of slip pipe to make the stove top removal easy.
 
Yes, one more recommendation. If you are top flue connecting this stove, install a section of slip pipe to make the stove top removal easy.

With the Castine that is not necessary. I thought it was, until I realized that the top is completely separate from flue outlet. You can lift the top off with the flue in place, no problem.

You probably need a slip section to get the stove installed initially, but you won't have to deal with the slip section to clean the flue or remove the baffle.
 
SP, you're right. Thanks for the reminder. It's been about 8 yrs so I looked up the old pictures. Our F400 had a slip pipe which made installation a breeze. But that is not required for cleaning. The flue collar sits behind the removable stove top. It's a nice design.

Stove Install 006.jpg
 
The baffle is easily removable in the 400. I clean a few every season. I sweep the flue, drop the entire baffle and clean up the mess. It goes right back into place and have never had to replace any of the gaskets, they just sit on the baffle.
 
The baffle is easily removable in the 400. I clean a few every season. I sweep the flue, drop the entire baffle and clean up the mess. It goes right back into place and have never had to replace any of the gaskets, they just sit on the baffle.

How do you get the two 8" gaskets that sit on the top of the side plates back in? That what caused me to remove the top. I could get the long one in, but not the two short ones that you can't see. Once the bolts are out, it is a lot easier anyway, and their doesn't seem to be a down side to doing that way.

Incidentally, Jotul lists the two short gaskets as 1/4" flat, but I think 1/2" flat would work better. The ledge they sit on is quite wide, but the baffle only catches the outside 1/2 of it. With the narrow gasket, it is possible to miss getting a seal. (My stove had a 1/2" wide gasket in it when I first disassembled it. I don't know if it was factory or not.)
 
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I'm coming into this thread late but could use some advice. I went to remove the baffle plate through the front of my F400 today and can't see how that is physically possible. I'm assuming that simply removing the top of the stove is the best way to go about this? Then you have access to the bottom of the pipe and the top of the baffle plate without having to move the baffle plate. Please advise.
 
The top is designed to be removed. It's even gasketed for repeat removal. This is to facilitate cleaning.
 
Much appreciated! My wife was brave enough to wrangle her small hands in there and do the first time bolt removal. We pulled the top off, cleaned it and reassembled. Those bolts are now in the trash.
 
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