I have a one inch air gap behind the tile/backer board and the ceiling height is 8 feet. Will have the blower on the stove going to help push the heat out and if need be have a small fan pushing air in/out.
Thoughts on this build out?
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
See earlier pics...its very unconventional, but the gap is on the outside of the wall...not quite sure if this setup would meet regs or not...?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
I think the issue could still be if the power goes out, the fans don't work, heat builds up...
Yep, I had to go back and review the earlier threads. It's unconventional as heck, but safer than without the gaps. It would be good to get approval from Pleasant Hearth on paper for insurance purposes.
Well the manual doesn't say anything about having one inch gap I just did it for extra protection and figured it would work good how I have it since the frame is in the garage where it will be cold and have plenty of air to help keep the studs cool. I'm not worried about losing power never have and if I do have a generator.
The manual also doesn't give specs for an alcove installation which is what you are doing. That is the issue we are having. You are doing an unspecified installation.
I don't know what the yikes is about I am far enough from the sides and back wall with one inch air gap from the studs on all sides with the recommended ceiling height. I am beyond the manual clearance requirements with extra protection, but guess yikes....
Maybe not the best shot to illustrate. There needs to be at least 16" of hearth in front of the stove.
I will most likely put a pad in front of it just for the wife if she has to load the stove when I'm gone.
Even though the stove manual does not cover an alcove installation, the requirements have been followed or exceeded. The lack of a proper hearth pad for floor protection is a gross exception. This is not an optional or conditional item. Embers can and do pop out of the stove occasionally and they can do damage. Also, this hearth pad must be insulated to the required spec. This is not an ember protection-only stove.
(Unit must be placed on a noncombustible floor protection equivalent to 1” millboard. Floor protector must have min. R value of .893.)
EDIT: See below, on page 4 the manual contradicts/corrects this statement with a much higher R-value requirement of 2.0.
(Unit must be placed on a noncombustible floor protection equivalent to 1” millboard. Floor protector must have min. R value of .893.)
EDIT: See below, on page 4 the manual contradicts/corrects this statement with a much higher R-value requirement of 2.0.
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stoveliker
Minister of Fire
Interesting:
Are, in cases where both against a wall and alcove installations are listed in the manual with their own specific clearances, are in such cases the (side and back) clearances for alcoves generally larger than for a "normal" installation or not?
Are, in cases where both against a wall and alcove installations are listed in the manual with their own specific clearances, are in such cases the (side and back) clearances for alcoves generally larger than for a "normal" installation or not?
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
Ok.
Then how would it be safe to assume "wall installation clearances" are safe to use for an alcove, when no data are available? After all some stoves need larger side/back clearances for an alcove installation. I.e. for some stoves it's not safe to use wall installation clearances.
When nothing is mentioned, is it safe to assume you don't need larger clearances? Me thinks not.
When nothing is mentioned, should one even install in an alcove? (In extremis, I can think of many (stupid) scenarios not mentioned in the manual, that will be patently unsafe.) How can a UL listed stove be installed according to the mfg instructions, if no instructions for a particular type of installation exist?
If they tested it (for this stove), and determined that it is safe to use the same clearances, I'd hope they write one sentence in the manual.
So, for a case where some stoves need stronger safety measures (larger clearances), and some don't, assuming yours doesn't is a bit of a safety concern imo.
And I understand that assuming this stove would need larger clearances in an alcove (i.e. the safer choice) brings the conundrum of how much larger - a thing we just don't know.
This is a concerning omission in the manual. I think it'd be good if there would be (UL) requirements of what a manual has to contain. Alcove installations do occur, so it's not a "stupid scenario" that does not warrant mentioning.
This is not criticism to the OP; apparently he honored the only numbers he has (and exceeded them, barring the hearth), and included a vented shield if I read correctly. That's good.
It's a cheap stove with sketchy documentation. I just spotted another issue with their hearth calculations. Apparently, the stove has no bottom shielding, making for a stout hearth requirement. I will go back and note this in the previous post.
Later on, in the manual, it says this:
If the appliance is to be installed on a combustible floor or floor covering, a floor protector must be inserted under the stove and project beyond the front of the stove a minimum of 16” (406mm) in the US or 18” (457mm) in Canada and 8”(203mm) on all other sides. In the US the floor protector must also be positioned under any horizontal chimney run and project beyond the pipe a minimum of 2” (51mm) on both sides.
The floor protector must be a durable noncombustible material with a minimum thickness of 1.0” and an R value of “2.0.
Later on, in the manual, it says this:
If the appliance is to be installed on a combustible floor or floor covering, a floor protector must be inserted under the stove and project beyond the front of the stove a minimum of 16” (406mm) in the US or 18” (457mm) in Canada and 8”(203mm) on all other sides. In the US the floor protector must also be positioned under any horizontal chimney run and project beyond the pipe a minimum of 2” (51mm) on both sides.
The floor protector must be a durable noncombustible material with a minimum thickness of 1.0” and an R value of “2.0.
It's a cheap stove? Yeah no it's not a cheap stove, but thanks. I've had this stove for the last two years heating my garage and blowing the the heat into the house. Under the stove doesn't get hot at all or the back of the stove. I will put a pad down in front of it for sparks but even from the heat of the stove the floor doesn't get hot at all. But like you said $1000 stove is cheap....It's a cheap stove with sketchy documentation. I just spotted another issue with their hearth calculations. Apparently, the stove has no bottom shielding, making for a stout hearth requirement. I will go back and note this in the previous post.
Later on, in the manual, it says this:
If the appliance is to be installed on a combustible floor or floor covering, a floor protector must be inserted under the stove and project beyond the front of the stove a minimum of 16” (406mm) in the US or 18” (457mm) in Canada and 8”(203mm) on all other sides. In the US the floor protector must also be positioned under any horizontal chimney run and project beyond the pipe a minimum of 2” (51mm) on both sides.
The floor protector must be a durable noncombustible material with a minimum thickness of 1.0” and an R value of “2.0.
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
Relatively cheap, would have been a better characterization. $1000 is a lot of money. But most stoves are more.
How do you know it doesn't get hot under and Infront of the stove? Have you run tests with thermocouples through all sorts of burning scenarios? That is how they determined the required r-value of the hearth.
And yes compared to the other stoves on the market $1000 is a cheap stove. Not by any means saying $1000 isn't a good chunk of money but when you compare it to other stoves on the market which have much better engineering they are cheap
I have a 1100 sqft house and this heats 1800 sqft why would I spend more money then I need to. Every review on this stove been good and is a good company that makes this stove. I have been using this stove for the past two years so I know the heat output and what I built surpasses the manual. But I get comments saying yikes, unsafe and cheap.
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
I did not say all that.
I only said the stove is relatively cheap, and that $1000 is a lot of money (e.g. counted I grocery trips...)
I'm a cheap guy, so I get it. But it's (only) one side of a weighing of what stove to buy and how to install.
It is a decent stove for the money yes. But if every review you have seen of it is positive you are only looking at places where the manufacturer is able to edit reviews because there are many with bad experiences. And no the company is not good. Honestly it is one of the worst in the business that imports cheap crap from Asia to sell here
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
However, that (stove and mfg) is a done deal. No need to discuss.
The important part is to have the insulation safe. And according to the instructions. Because if the excrement hits the rotary air mover, your insurance may not pay out if they can find an issue with a noncompliant installation.
It's safety. Of you and your family, and of your wallet.
The important part is to have the insulation safe. And according to the instructions. Because if the excrement hits the rotary air mover, your insurance may not pay out if they can find an issue with a noncompliant installation.
It's safety. Of you and your family, and of your wallet.
Sorry, I didn't mean to offend. It is on the bottom end of the pricing spectrum for stoves today. The hearthpad requirements are from the manufacturer. It's not a negotiable number.
Like I have a small ranch house so no need to spend top dollar on a stove. Had this stove for two years and works perfect for my needs
Got stove and pipe all installed. Just have to do some touch on the grout, one more coat of paint and put trim around the outside.
What is the r-value of your floor? This is an extremely important safety factor not just because of embers. Lower end stoves that are not shielded well can put out lots of radiant heat into that floor. This can pose a very serious safety risk.
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