Anybody know of an inexpensive but accurate torque wrench? I'm tired of worrying about over-tightening or under-tightening.
Battenkiller said:Anybody know of an inexpensive but accurate torque wrench? I'm tired of worrying about over-tightening or under-tightening.
wkpoor said:Go on Epay and buy a used quality mfg one (Mac, Snap-On, Proto Matco) and send it out for calibration.
Battenkiller said:Anybody know of an inexpensive but accurate torque wrench? I'm tired of worrying about over-tightening or under-tightening.
TreePointer said:Battenkiller said:Anybody know of an inexpensive but accurate torque wrench? I'm tired of worrying about over-tightening or under-tightening.
More info needed:
Over/under-tightening bolts/screws for what?
What range do you need?
NATE379 said:If we got caught doing that where I work you would be in some HOT water!
For most people with some mechanical skill it's fine to use the "calibrated" arm, but I have worked with some guys that couldn't tell the difference between the flat head screwdriver and a framing hammer.
Plus, not to mention some of the items we work on are expensive. The AIM-120Cs used to be $1 million each. They are about 1/2 that now though, but the newer D is close to it.
BrotherBart said:Working on the lfight line we torqued the same nuts and bolts so many times we developed "calibrated wrists".
Business aircraft are getting up there too. Over 50mil is pretty common and the BBJ is probably pushing 100mil ( we have one of those in our fleet). Use of torque wrench is pretty much common sense. You know as an experiences mech whats torque critical and whats not. More then not people tend to over torque fasteners more then under.NATE379 said:If we got caught doing that where I work you would be in some HOT water!
For most people with some mechanical skill it's fine to use the "calibrated" arm, but I have worked with some guys that couldn't tell the difference between the flat head screwdriver and a framing hammer.
Plus, not to mention some of the items we work on are expensive. The AIM-120Cs used to be $1 million each. They are about 1/2 that now though, but the newer D is close to it.
kettensäge said:Years ago I got some help from a co-worker familiar with engine rebuilding. It was my first car and engine rebuild. I had a beam type wrench and was talking with the guy and he offered to bring his clicker over and "supervise" the assembly. We set the crankshaft and began tightening the main caps with his wrench. We went in steps as recomended. He set the wrench for the correct torque on the first step and started tightening. Tighter and tighter until the bolt snapped. He looked at me very surprised and wondered why the wrench never clicked. We got the broken bolt out, got a replacement and finished assembling the engine with my Craftsman beam type wrench. That was in 1982 and I still use the same wrench to this day.
Clickers are more accurate, faster, and easier to use but they must be turned back to zero torque after use and must be stored properly to prevent problems.
Beam type wrenches are adequete for the average guy and even good enough for a backyard mechanic. I have used mine to assemble at least a dozen engines from a 4 cyl. Subaru up to a street/strip 355 SBC without a problem.
I would suggest a 1/4 or 3/8" drive clicker and a 1/2" beam type for the bigger jobs.
Most newer engines bolt torques require an angle gauge as well.
peakbagger said:Once you get on the big bolts you need a torque wrench as no many folks have "calibrated arms" for hundred of foot pounds.