Tractor supply's Grand Teton Collection Targhee Wood Stove

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steveh2112

New Member
Jan 14, 2024
30
ithaca ny
Tractor supply's Grand Teton Collection Targhee Wood Stove is $649.99
would you recommend this for a 1000sqft house in upstate NY?
is there anything better under $1000?

actually this has great reviews https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/cleveland-iron-works-medium-wood-stove-f500110
and has a bigger firebox or should i go up a bit and get this Englander 32-NC Wood Stove
for $1099 which seems to be discussed here a lot?

thanks

i was thinking used but can't seem to find anything reasonably modern on FB or CL right now
 
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The same stoves are sold under the Master Forge brand sold at Lowes, just under a different labeling. Reviews have been mixed. Th Englander is a better stove, but too large for 1000 sq ft. unless building a big sauna that size. Look at the Drolet Spark, Nano, or Deco for comparison or perhaps a medium sized Century stove. Or spring for a bit more money and get a True North TN20.
 
i noticed the Englander is very big for my house but is that a problem? can i not just add less wood or just close the damper a bit. would bigger be better for keeping it going all night? it says it has 14hr burn time compared to 5hrs for Drolet

oh, i just googled it and i guess its not a good idea to get a stove too big for your house, it will not run hot enough to be efficient

thanks for the tip on century stove, this looks nice
good price, 79% efficiency and 5 year warrantee. i think i'll get that
 
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The small fire/big stove only works to a certain point. Too small of a fire does not warm the firebox up enough for complete combustion to occur. Wood stoves don’t turn off like a furnace does. Too big of a stove might overheat your place to the point that you don’t run the stove until it’s 20 out.

But stove size is often dependent on factors other than marketing. The home’s insulation and floor plan often dictate the size stove you’ll need.

Regardless of the stove you choose, you’ll need wood that’s under 20% moisture content. Most wood sellers do not sell wood dry enough for a modern stove to run well with. Wood needs time to dry. You may want to put wood up now, while you’re looking for a stove.
 
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my house is a fixer upper and barely any insulation at all. i'll be fixing that this year but for now, i need something to keep from freezing my behind off. also, i'm limited to what's available in my area for wood, but i guess i can buy a wood moisture content meter for a few bucks to test before i buy
 
my house is a fixer upper and barely any insulation at all. i'll be fixing that this year but for now, i need something to keep from freezing my behind off. also, i'm limited to what's available in my area for wood, but i guess i can buy a wood moisture content meter for a few bucks to test before i buy
I was told by someone on here, much wiser than me, that you should upsize the stove in sq ft rating by 25% if your house is old and leaky. Single pane windows add another 10%
 
i was just reading the use manual for that Century stove and it it says this about supplying outside air
"6.6.2 Conventional HouseThe safest and most reliable supply of combustion air for a wood stove is from the room in whichit is installed. Room air is already preheated so it will not chill the fire, and its availability is notaffected by wind pressures on the house. Contrary to commonly expressed concerns, almostall tightly sealed new houses have enough natural leakage to provide the small amount of airneeded by the stove. The only case in which the wood stove may not have adequate access tocombustion air is if the operation of a powerful exhaust device (such as a kitchen range exhaust)causes the pressure in the house to become negative relative to outdoors."

i'm sure this has been discussed on this forum and i'll take a loo, but this surprised me
 
thanks for the tip on century stove, this looks nice
good price, 79% efficiency and 5 year warrantee. i think i'll get that
Yes, that's the one. It is a sibling of the Drolet Nano and a N/S loader so you will be able to load it to near full capacity with 16-18" wood.
 
i was just reading the use manual for that Century stove and it it says this about supplying outside air
"6.6.2 Conventional HouseThe safest and most reliable supply of combustion air for a wood stove is from the room in whichit is installed. Room air is already preheated so it will not chill the fire, and its availability is notaffected by wind pressures on the house. Contrary to commonly expressed concerns, almostall tightly sealed new houses have enough natural leakage to provide the small amount of airneeded by the stove. The only case in which the wood stove may not have adequate access tocombustion air is if the operation of a powerful exhaust device (such as a kitchen range exhaust)causes the pressure in the house to become negative relative to outdoors."

i'm sure this has been discussed on this forum and i'll take a loo, but this surprised me
The subject of adding an OAK (outside air kit) has been covered many times. There are two schools of thought on this topic. The Canadian school is more cautious, while this side of the border is more pro. The stove location in the house (which floor) can affect the viability and need as well as the house construction. Search on "outside air" or OAK for many threads discussing this topic. FWIW, we don't have an OAK on our 3 cu ft stove that is in a house of 2000 sq ft.

 
thanks, my feeling is i don't need any more drafts coming into my house so i'll probably add it. i can always disconnect it if it turns out i'm wrong. i just ordered the Century Heating S250