Trying to choose the perfect stove

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fox9988

Minister of Fire
Jan 15, 2012
616
NW Arkansas
This site is a great recource, but I need a little reassurance that I'm picking the right stove. Thanks in advance.
Local Weather: Near Fayetteville AR. Weather.com shows Jan to be the coldest month with average high 46::F average low 26::F record low -23::F(-8::F lowest I recall). Moderate winds at my house.
Home: 6 months old, 1536 sqft heated, Tyveked (house wraped), R13 blown cellulose walls, R48 cellulose attic, good windows-7@3x5, 4@3x3, good doors, concrete slab, open floor plan, 8ft ceilings exept 640 sqft living/kitchen with 12 ft open vault (stove room) seems very tight (one 130cu.ft. bath fan kills the draft,etc). 100% wood heat. 6 Inch interior chimney, 8ft class A, 8 ft single walled, straight up, no 90's.
History: I've heated with wood most of my life but but have no EPA stove experiance. I've been perfectly content with my dragon for the past 20 years. Then I find this site<>, ignorance WAS bliss.
What I think I want: Cat stove for my moderate climate and long burn times. As some of you know, I'm definitaly looking at the Fireview and Keystone. BK would fit my needs but I can't get past the price and looks (no offense). Looking for a 12 hr burn to low coals (no kindling).
Opinions please.....
 
My opinion is the fireview would be a great fit for that application. Granted this opinion strictly comes from what I've read about the unit.

One problem you may face is down draft with a house that tight you are bound to have some negative pressure. Either way congrats on the new house. May it be a blessing to you and your family for many many years.
 
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My opinion is the fireview would be a great fit for that application. Granted this opinion strictly comes from what I've read about the unit.

One problem you may face is down draft with a house that tight you are bound to have some negative pressure. Either way congrats on the new house. May it be a blessing to you and your family for many many years.
Thanks, we are definitaly enjoying the new house. Wife prefers the looks of the FV to the Keystone. I would feel better with a the larger firebox also. EPA stoves look tiny to me. I wish the FV had top exhaust option. I know that WS is very respected here, just want to make sure they one is right for me.
 
Thanks, we are definitaly enjoying the new house. Wife prefers the looks of the FV to the Keystone. I would feel better with a the larger firebox also. EPA stoves look tiny to me. I wish the FV had top exhaust option. I know that WS is very respected here, just want to make sure they one is right for me.

;lol I have to laugh because you are looking at the same things we were. When I first saw some of these new EPA stoves, including the Fireview, I laughed out loud. I could hardly believe a stove of that size would heat our home. Long story short, it does very nicely. Then after some remodeling last year which included an addition, we still have more than enough stove to keep us very warm. We used to close off rooms in the house. We do not do that any longer....and we stay warmer burning only about half the amount of wood we used to burn.

No promises but it is possible Woodstock may be working on the top exhaust option. They are looking at many things and that is another reason I like this company. Always trying to improve.

I'm with your wife in that I too much prefer the Fireview. However, with either one, I suggest you seriously consider a raised hearth just to get the firebox door higher. I worried because heat goes up and feared the floors might be even colder (floors were extremely cold with old stove). Ha! Our floors are warm now!

My only concern would be on that oak. You have 3 years worth and that is fantastic! However, when was it split and stacked? We like to give oak 3 years in the stack before burning. However, you might get away with 2 years in your area. As for the average temperatures in your area, it would be very simple to heat with either the Fireview or Keystone. Good luck.

Meanwhile, here are some pictures we took at the Woodstock factory. Notice one of the stoves is set up in the manufacturing area and there is a nice fire in it. That was taken at the Open House last October. One picture also shows a Fireview that is still being built. The last two pictures were taken in the showroom.


Factory-7.JPGFireview-1.JPGShipping-6.JPGInside Fireview-1.JPGShowroom-2.JPGShowroom-10.JPG
 

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Dennis,
The oak was c/s/s in Feb this year. It was dozed down in April 2011 to make room for the house. I was suprised the MC was only 25%. I do have a raised brick hearth. Nice pics:)
EDIT:Woodstocks site recomends MC 15-25%, preferrably on the lower end. So if I buy this year I should be ok.
 
Yeah, don't be fooled by the smallish looking EPA stoves they pack a bigger punch than you think but you need good dry wood. If your Oak is already at 25 percent it will burn ok in a Woodstock this year but you may not see the best results til the moisture dips below 20. Smaller splits may help dry out faster.

You can get a 12 hour burn with either Woodstock but the Fireview would be more consistent and give you a little more room and fire power. If your wife likes the Fireview I'd go with it, it won't disappoint.
 
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Does anyone have the measurement for the center of the flue collar, front to rear, on a Keystone (where the collar is in relation to the stove top)? And the FV with a 90 on the back (how far behind the stove top the pipe is)? Did that make any sense?:confused:
EDIT: removing MC question
 
On the keystone the center of the top flue sits back 14" from the front of the stove. The rear vent collar is about 21" back.
 
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Does anyone have the measurement for the center of the flue collar, front to rear, on a Keystone (where the collar is in relation to the stove top)? And the FV with a 90 on the back (how far behind the stove top the pipe is)? Did that make any sense?:confused:
EDIT: removing MC question
When I called Woodstock about my Fireview,, which was still boxed up here, I was told the back of the pipe to the back of the stove is 8 inches. So the stove specs out as 20 inches deep, that puts the back of the pipe at 28 inches from the front of the stove, or come back 3 inches for the center of a 6 inch pipe , that makes it 25 inches from the front to the center of the pipe. May be someone with one set up can confirm this. Hope this helps you out.
Charlie
 
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If you do choose the Keystone I'd consider venting out the back with a tee so it would be easier cleaning and the stove also looks better with that top rear slab of stone on there. It's a good spot to place a steamer.

Even with the Fireview you would be better off with a rear tee than a 90 degree elbow. I'm pretty sure a 6" tee doesn't stick out as far as a 6" elbow so you may save an inch or two on rear clearance.
 
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If you do choose the Keystone I'd consider venting out the back with a tee so it would be easier cleaning and the stove also looks better with that top rear slab of stone on there. It's a good spot to place a steamer.

Even with the Fireview you would be better off with a rear tee than a 90 degree elbow. I'm pretty sure a 6" tee doesn't stick out as far as a 6" elbow so you may save an inch or two on rear clearance.
Todd , are you saying that a tee will draft better then a 90? Haven't set my Fireview up yet, so I have to buy one or the other .Double wall interior pipe.
 
Todd , are you saying that a tee will draft better then a 90? Haven't set my Fireview up yet, so I have to buy one or the other .Double wall interior pipe.

Draft is probably the same either way but if your going straight up why not have a tee so you can sweep straight down and remove the bottom cap to remove the creosote. It's easier than removing the pipe or elbow. If your venting into a chimney through an adjacent wall might as well stick with a 90 elbow unless you like the tee look better or you need to save an inch or two on rear clearance since the tee is shorter length wise.
 
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Draft is probably the same either way but if your going straight up why not have a tee so you can sweep straight down and remove the bottom cap to remove the creosote. It's easier than removing the pipe or elbow. If your venting into a chimney through an adjacent wall might as well stick with a 90 elbow unless you like the tee look better or you need to save an inch or two on rear clearance since the tee is shorter length wise.
Going through a wall into a lined masonry chimney. Guess I just stick with the 90. Thanks Todd.
 
Jotul f118 or f500 Oslo?
 
Todd, good idea. I think a T would save me an ~1" depending on brand. My concern is that my raised hearth is 41" deep and the flue is centered 26" back from the front edge (non-combustible wall)(non-cumbustible floor in front of hearth). That puts a FV ~1" back from the edge of the hearth (C to C is fine but it may look odd). I don't want to use an off-set in the pipe. Could the soot be vacumed out of the elbow on a FV through the open top?
Angus, I'll check out the Jotuls.
Charly, post some picks after the install.
 
Todd, good idea. I think a T would save me an ~1" depending on brand. My concern is that my raised hearth is 41" deep and the flue is centered 26" back from the front edge (non-combustible wall)(non-cumbustible floor in front of hearth). That puts a FV ~1" back from the edge of the hearth (C to C is fine but it may look odd). I don't want to use an off-set in the pipe. Could the soot be vacumed out of the elbow on a FV through the open top?
Angus, I'll check out the Jotuls.
Charly, post some picks after the install.
OK
 
How high is your raised hearth? The Fireview only requires 8" clearance in front and it's either vertical or horizontal so if your hearth is at least 8" high your ok. If you top vented the keystone you might have a better fit.
 
;lol I have to laugh because you are looking at the same things we were. When I first saw some of these new EPA stoves, including the Fireview, I laughed out loud. I could hardly believe a stove of that size would heat our home. Long story short, it does very nicely. Then after some remodeling last year which included an addition, we still have more than enough stove to keep us very warm. We used to close off rooms in the house. We do not do that any longer....and we stay warmer burning only about half the amount of wood we used to burn.

No promises but it is possible Woodstock may be working on the top exhaust option. They are looking at many things and that is another reason I like this company. Always trying to improve.

I'm with your wife in that I too much prefer the Fireview. However, with either one, I suggest you seriously consider a raised hearth just to get the firebox door higher. I worried because heat goes up and feared the floors might be even colder (floors were extremely cold with old stove). Ha! Our floors are warm now!

My only concern would be on that oak. You have 3 years worth and that is fantastic! However, when was it split and stacked? We like to give oak 3 years in the stack before burning. However, you might get away with 2 years in your area. As for the average temperatures in your area, it would be very simple to heat with either the Fireview or Keystone. Good luck.

Meanwhile, here are some pictures we took at the Woodstock factory. Notice one of the stoves is set up in the manufacturing area and there is a nice fire in it. That was taken at the Open House last October. One picture also shows a Fireview that is still being built. The last two pictures were taken in the showroom.


View attachment 70373View attachment 70374View attachment 70376View attachment 70377View attachment 70378View attachment 70379

I don't know how many "Classic" stoves Woodstock has ever sold. I need to see the flame.
 
How high is your raised hearth? The Fireview only requires 8" clearance in front and it's either vertical or horizontal so if your hearth is at least 8" high your ok. If you top vented the keystone you might have a better fit.
Hearth is 9", stained concrete floors so floor protection isn't a problem
 
The first time I saw a WS Classic I thought "WTF, how are you supposed to know what the fire is doing?"
Then I remembered I have never owned a stove with glass in it.
 
I don't know how many "Classic" stoves Woodstock has ever sold. I need to see the flame.

I remember there was one Maine member who bought one . . . I don't see her posts any more . . . I remember she did beautiful work painting wooden floors.
 
I remember there was one Maine member who bought one . . . I don't see her posts any more . . . I remember she did beautiful work painting wooden floors.

I kind a like the looks of the classic. I did see a youtube video of a Classic that had a small window on the side door. I think it may be an option you can ask for but I don't think the glass stays very clean with no air wash?
 
I kind a like the looks of the classic. I did see a youtube video of a Classic that had a small window on the side door. I think it may be an option you can ask for but I don't think the glass stays very clean with no air wash?
I'm thinking with that extra full side of stone, the stove must put out some nice heat.
 
I'm thinking with that extra full side of stone, the stove must put out some nice heat.

I had a Classic for a couple of years, it was great. It just didn't hold enough wood to effectively heat the house for a full 12 hours.
 
" Could the soot be vacumed out of the elbow on a FV through the open top?
Angus, I'll check out the Jotuls."

In regards to cleaning the chimney - I haven't ran it yet but we are putting a Jotul F50 into the house we are building. Our chimney is straight up/down. No elbows. The installer that I am purchasing it from told me that the Jotul F50s allow us to clean the chimney into the stove without removing the pipe and then just vacuum the creosote out of the stove. He also sweeps chimneys and though it would be a nice setup to clean. But like I said, I am going on what he's telling me as we haven't ran the stove yet and won't until this winter........
 
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